p24-1953

it was drained dry in 3 hours today

bill man you type fast i couldnt even appologize quick enough.. i wasnt trying to be a smart a....

thanks, for that deep answer man that was insightfull. the carb before did this also. what could be leaking. i see no sign of a leak on the plug on the bottom of the bowl, no external wetness. could the main main jet in the bottom of the bowl be leaking? how tight is it supposed to be? bill that wasnt directed to you.. now don on the other hand....

i have install my second rebuilt carb and i have noticed that the carb bowl is completly empty after sitting a few hours. what can cause this?

brad that would be great, could you send them to me

who here has got one? did anyone build their own?

okay so i found that my carb was leaking from a small crack in the bottom of the bowl. i have rebuilt my backup and installed it tonight. the idle is a little rough and slightly improves when you spray starter fluid around the base/or vacuum connection. so should i use a gasket making goop in additon to the fiber gastkets provided in the kit? and do i need to use some type of thread sealant where the vacumm take off is on the side of the carb?

here are few pics of one of them... http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690973872/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690973292/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/42580742@N02/4690972920/ it looks like to mee that the gap between the running boards and front fender and cab/bed seem a little off? what could cause this?

i know that a few guys on here dable in 50's chevys also so i will ask this here also. well after having a infant i have now started to realize that the 2 seater Chevy SSR truck will not continue to work. i also have a 53 / 4 door we use as a church/grocery getter, but i enjoy driving around with the dogs in the back of my current truck and i dont want to have to worry about damaging the plymouth w/ building supplies as we work around the house, so... i have started looking at my options. i dont want a SUV, MiniVan or new truck. I have found two possible trucks some what locally. i have talked to both sellers, it seems the stock ( $2,500) one runs well, needs brake work, but the rust to the corners was repair 10-15 yrs ago and has no new rust. but the frame is saging in the middle behind the cab. (what could cause this?) my gut says run far away and fast. the ($6,500) one is sitting on a s10 frame with disk brakes and power steering, the stock 4.3 v-6 is smoking but they are throughing in a new crate 350 and a new 600cfm carb. the 700r4 transmission is in good shape and does not slip, but the cab corners and lower edges of the bed are starting to rust out. i felt the higher price could be justified by the s-10 work done but is that a fair thought if you know there is rust? Biggest question... how wide are the stock bench seats? can they fit 3 people? or 2 people and a car seat?

what does it mean if the base of the carb and the intake manifold is wet with gas? I also am running rich but have a good strong vaccum, one strange thing for me is that after sitting for more than a few hours then the bowl of the carb is empty. i am also only getting 10mpg w/ overdrive on the highway.

one of my first post was a question asking which upgrades got the most bang for the buck. well im slowly checking those off one by one. (overdrive, a/c) now im wondering what is the horsepower gain by switching to dual intake and exhaust? is it noticable and does it justify the cost? what is the horsepower gain? How about the gains from milling the head?

i was trying that also, but found i couldnt get the blower to be strong enough to realy cool the car. i also found that like the heater or defrost it would only be blowing on your feet

so are you sticking with the 6 volt? or are you upgrading to 12 volt to run your radio and extra speakers? you can make a a/c system fit, you just have to be willing to a: either see it below the dash or b: give up the stock radio, defrost and heat.

well i have the stock shroud so i can check that off the list. well its olny the top half, but it is some what of a shroud. i have a pusher electric that i can turn on when the a/c is on and it keeps me from overheating but there is only 2.5" between the fan hub and the radiator so i can get on of the mack daddy 300 cfm puller fans to fit, so i gotta keep the mechanical. also it is difficult to find a higher rated cfm fan in 6 volt

does it have a number stamped on it? i had no luck searchign for a yale fan

okay check the temp and i know my hand themometer is a little off but i was running 220 after sitting at a light the other day. so i am looking for a differnt fan, can someone tell me about this fan? Mopar 7 Blade Fan, Part Number 2863224 what year did it fit? how deep is it? will it fit our cars? what is the diameter?

what is the diam. of the water pump shaft that the fan bolts to? i am trying to buy a spacer and can not get a accurate diminsion on mine. thats what i get for not having calipers around only a tape. i did not find it in the book either.

so how can you determine your rpm without a tach. could you count the flashes of the timming light, and multiply? where can we get a 6 volt positve ground tach these days?

what is a good idle rpm? is 500 to low?

well i went out and measured mine. it is right at 6.5" This means that my alt. is turning to slow with the stock alternator 2.65" pulley. it runs about 600 rpm slower than what the factory tested at. i came about this number by... my crank pulley is 6.5" turning at 750 rpm at idle it drives a 5.19" diam. ac/ compressor (turns 939 rpm) and this drives a 2.65" alt. pully at 1874rpm. the factory says that the alt should be turning at 2500 when the engine is going 750 rpm. so i think by switching to a 2" pulley will help because the rpm would be 2436@750rpm. not that anyone cares...

okay so i have installed my electric fan and now the car runs at about 3/4 on the temp guage when the a/c and electric fan are on and 1/2 when off the a/c and fan are off. i would like to get the temp a little lower when the a/c is on and have found this? http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/1817/10002/-1 so would it be a gain to have the one additional blade? would it provide any more air flow across the radiator in stop and go traffic?

does anyone know what the diameter of our crank pullies are?

thanks for reposting im posting from a cell so I didn't bother to search. sorryl

are our stock fans 16", 17" or 18" diameter. im not near my car so i cant measure. thanks

do you have to have a 6 volt relay, or will a 12 volt one work?