p24-1953

i started with rebuilding my old front wheel cylinders. this worked good for two days untill the car started pulling to the left when you hit the brakes. attempt #2 so, i bought new cylinders (raybestos), put them in, bleed everything. went for a drive and they worked for a while but the longer i went the softer they became, after it sat overnight i had drips on both tires. Attempt #3 i pulled everything and one cylinder on each weel seemed to be taking on air. i thought it was at the supply hose. ordered and installed new hoses, put it all back together. rebleed everything had good pressure, took it for a spin two days later the pedel had to be pumped to get pressure. and i had a puddle at both wheels.... attempt #4 when the wife applied pressure to the brake pedel on the ruturn you could hear a hissing sound from the top two cylinders. i didnt know if it was a bad seal or if they were taking air at the hose so i pulled everything, installed a rebuild kit that i had lying around and put hydralic thread sealer on all hoses re bleed everything had good pressure. it was two late for a test drive so i thought i would wait till next day.... this morning i had two new puddles and had to pump the pedel to get pressure. rock automotive said they would return the two faulty cylinders but im about to give up on these things i am tired of pulling everything apart reassembling it , rebleeding, and re adjusting the toe and heel.... im thinking it time for the midus touch.. what could i be doing wrong? could i really have got 4 bad cylinders at once?

if you could check it out for me or let me know where to go. i would appreciate it. if you need a hand pulling parts holer

ohh your my hero..... where.....please tell me

i dont know about you guys but my ebrake is as tight as i can get it and im lucky to keep it still on a slight incline. there is no way it would stop the car.

while driving...... other than praying. my master cylinder went out a few years ago but luckly i was on the highway so i just kept on going till i rolled to a stop, but what about if i was intown.. what should i do? how can i stop. i just installed new lines, cylinders and pads, but the M. cylinder is a older rebuild job.

i have been looking for a front pass. side door for a 4 door 53 plymouth. i have been searching for a junk yard in middle ga. but have not found one that has not sold all the old cars for scrap. any one got any leads? i will post this in parts wanted also...

What not to do while under your car..... Voice #1: hey thats a odd looking spot! voice #2: hey poke at it with that screw driver. voice #1: okay Voice #1 and #2 in unison: son fo a #@%@#$@@# Moral of the story... I found rust. when i got my car i was told to check the floor boards for rust which i did and i did not find any , but i did not know that near the door on the drivers side the desginers thought it wuld be good idea to design a holding area 2" wide by 8-12" long. after the poking and proding the damage is about 1" wide x 6" long. so i want to know where else to look for rust. Pictures would be great. this is a dry west texas car so i hope i am over reacting.

where are you located?

i have a "small" hole in my muffler. the seam at the side has split for about 6" what is the reccomend replacement for a completly stock 53 plymouth? glasspack or a true muffler? isnt the inlet outlet diameter 1 1/2". where should i look for one?

Light blue. we think that this was the original color, but it was repainted and the new color is badly faded and scuffed from being stored in a barn w/ animals

okay guys and gals help me pick a color. what are yalls thoughts. i know my favorite is and i know what my wife likes. whats yalls thoughts? im open to different ideas also. as it sits now.. here are the colors i have played with....

i knew about drain the convertor and i knew the oil bath but did not know about the to drain hole on the transmission, so use 80 weight? thanks for the heads up

i did not know that the transmisson required transmission oil. I was under the impression that it was all motor oil. where do i change it? and how often should i change it? by the way i have a cranbrook. a overdrive would be nice so that highway speeds would not be so rough on the engine

is there something in the vin stating what the oiginal car color was. on vettes its just a matter of decoding it..... what were the possible two tone color combinations for 1953

to clean out the carbon build up? is this safe. i just finnished the vacuum test it pulls 17-18 steady revv it and it drops for a seccond or two then goes back to 17-18.

i did a compression test, but i forgot to keep the throtle pinned open will this effect my readings? (i did have the choke closed down). my readings were 110, 120, 120, 120, 110, 120. Are those strong readings? the repair book does not list what is good or not. i will be back with vacuum reading in a few mins.

A little history on me and my toy. We will start with the beginning. Laura and Obey Walker bought a 1953 plymouth new, when Obey died in 1965 Laura parked the car, when she passed away at the age of 104 in 1985 the car was driven to her daughter Stellas house, where it sat till 1994. Which was when my grandmother (stella) gave it to me for my 15th birthday. When i first got the car I changed the oil put a new battery in it and 4 new tires, and it started up within 5 mins. I drove it every day till I left for college, It never gave me any problems other than the master cylinder failing getting off the freeway one night. I had it repainted and just enjoyed driving it. But when I left for college i thought i needed something a little newer so I put it back in to the same stall it had sat in for 10 years. Well for my 30th birthday my wife suprised me and had it delivered over 1800 miles so i could have it to work on. I can remember going to visit my great grandmother as a kid and playing in this car when it ws in the garage. my wife wants to get the interior done, but when i sit in it the smell takes me back, this car smells great.... nothing like 50 years of gas exhaust and dust. i love it. and i am afraid if i redo the interior i will lose that smell. Below are a few pics of it in various stages. One of the best things i think is the fact that i have the original title signed by my great grandfather, grandfather, dad and now me. 20 years ago.... 10 years ago... 2 months ago....

you apperently arnt experienced in poop ... that my friend is grade "a" goat poop mixed with a little rhode island red chicken poop

http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=173574804/PictureID=3878894985/a=58017850_58017850/t_=58017850

mine is currently set at 0 tdc at idle. i have red 4btcd to 10btdc, what is reccomended? should i disconect the vaccum? or leave it connected.

thanks thats what i needed to see. i will do a formal intro here in a little just waiting to upload my pics. Thanks for the help

i have a 1953 plymouth and have not found a lot of information on the hy-drive transmissions. Are these transmissions dependable? are the sutiable for todays highway speeds? can you install a overdrive on them? are they worth keeping or should i switch it out?

on a 1953 plymouth which trim is stainles steel and which is chrome? mine is all dull and i do not want to be too agressive polishing the chrome? what is the best way to polish the trim?

The repair manual says to set the idle speed at 600 rpm, but my car does not have tach, so ho do you determin the RPM. this is on a 53 plymouth

the repair manuel says when doing a tune up with a vacuum gauge pull it from the manifold? where and how? im new to old mopars.. this is on a 53 plymouth.