DCurrent

Not that long ago oil filter was discussed, and a fram number 134pl along with car quest numbers 1010 & 1080. There was no mention of Fram #CH236APL which is what I found later that my car has in it. Now this is my first oil change with this car. I had bought the 134pl and had it ready to go in but the gaskets don't match up that came with it. Looking through past threads several of the canisters look like mine, but the lid is slightly different. My lid has a little more of a peak to it. I'm wondering if it is the right canister or lid for my 48 plymouth. Does anyone have the same canister with the same filter #CH236APL? Should I stick with the same filter? Darren

The plugs are new. I went with AC45. Does 615S sound right for the part number? I'm not sure if it is for the whole carb or just the float cap. Would you happen to have the napa part number for the kit? Upon reading another post yesterday I noticed his distributor was placed different than mine. My dist. advance is almost touching the starter motor. I thought it seemed awkward. Now I have to see why that is. It may be 180 around. Darren

It looks to be identical to the one I have in my 48 plymouth. Darren

I have studied the carb a little and tightened up a few screws. I also found that the accelerating pump lever is set on the long stroke. Would this make for a leaner mixture? Should I set it at the medium stroke? Also I was looking for the part number on the carb. I should have wrote it down to confirm it before coming into the house, but does anyone have the number handy for ordering a rebuild kit from napa? I wana make sure I got the right one. Thanks, Darren

I just took the air cleaner off my 48 today for the first time. I can see that there is something you should know. Make sure the collar that is attached to the bottom of the cleaner is open wider than the carb top. It may be nesessary to even stretch it a tad. If it is closed the cleaner will not set on the carb properly thus allowing the cleaner to tip and teeter and not get a good seal. As far as I can tell there is no need for a gasket. Hope this helps! Darren

That looks like a match to me! If you study the second building towards the rear in the pie it has the same pointed white things on the roof. Too much of a coincidence I think. Cool pictures by the way. Darren

I detected what I thought was a miss and replaced the cap, rotor, points, condersor, and plugs. It needed to be done anyway just so I knew it was done. I took it for a spin and the car was still hesitating at a stedy pace of 40mph. Not real noticable but enough to feel it. After a few days now I thought to take it for another spin and left the choke on by accident. I pushed the choke in after driving a while and it started the hesitating again. Pulled the choke out and it ran smooth as I imagined it should. Pushed the choke in and it hesitated again. So I'm sure my problem lies within the carb. I did a little reading up on it and I will probably tackle it this weekend. Has anyone experianced this before? Any idea what I should look for? My thought is the carb is either pluged or the jets are out of whack. It doen't look like there is much to screw with. I really don't want to tear the carb down without knowing if this might be a simple fix. Any help and direction is appreciated as always. Darren

You know, I often feel as if I was born 60 years too late! I was born in 75 and it seems my pasion and interests all lie in the 40s and 50s time frame. Sometimes I wonder why I enjoy that period so much compared to now. I'm sure the man upstairs has a plan for me, but I just don't know if its coming, I'm in it, or it's already been. I have watched Pickers while in the garage all day today working on a side job and just froth at the mouth when I see the things they find. I remember when the movie "Back to the Future" came out, and I wanted so very bad for that to happen to me even 20 years ago. Then I wake up and realize there is no way! Many of you fellas were lucky in my opinion to have lived back then. But then many of you would probly say I'm the lucky one to live during this period with the internet, cell phone, tv, and $5.00 a gallon gas! LOL I dunno! I would give just about anything to get a taste of that era! Darren

This is a good post. Lots of info at the bottom I didn't know about possative vs negative such as radio with poss. ground. Darren

I have one of these under my dash. I wondered what it was for. It has power to it, but nothing on the 10 or 20 amps. Guess I'll have to figure some wireing out before long. Darren

You might want to think about one of those metal canopies. I think they are fairly reasonable at $600 or so. If you have a menards they use them for their shoping cart corals out in the parking lots. Darren

Yes the wipes are ok, but there are basically just alcohol towlets. Straight alcohol on a rag will work just the same. The double sided tape has come a long ways from even just 10 years ago. It doesn't stain much anymore. At least none that I have noticed lately. It is widely used to hold moldings on cars still today. In fact I would bet all mouldings on the sides of cars and trucks are fastened with the tape. It holds like nothing else that can be removed in needed. What I would do is apply the tape to the grill and cut it so that there is a tab of the backer left. This is hard to explain without showing it. Place the grill on the dash where you would like it, and pull the tab out from behind the grill. Darren

Another idea would be to make sure the back side of the grille is clean and smooth. If it is not smooth then I would use a paint to make it smooth and apply strips of 3m doubble sided tape. Very strong stuff and naked to the eye. The grill would only stick out the thickness of the tape, and different widths can be bought to fit between the grill facia. I would buy the 1/4" width and lay another strip beside it if room permits. Leave the rivet stubs on the backside and use them to relocate the grill to the dash. Another plus to the tape is the added cusion between the different metal pieces keeping them from rubbing down the rode. Darren

Two more things! Change the oil in the compressor with compressor oil and clean the air filter. Replace it if you can get one. Darren

The air compressor will run just about any small air tool. It won't run a buffer and it may struggle with an impact. Its old which means its better than a new one. The electric motor looks to be fairly large for 110. The welder is also old. I haven't seen a 100 amp in a while. Could be hard to get parts for so make sure it works. Take it to a Lincoln dealer and they can shed some light on it. On the plus side it is user friendly and good for the beginner. Hopefully you can hook gas up to it for a cleaner weld. I only dabble in welding myself, but invest in a good sheild. They are reasonable at $50 with automatic darkening. Don't buy it at Lincoln dealer! TSC has a nice assortment (they go on sale often) and perhaps harbor freight. It will weld sheet metal down to say 20 gauge no problem I would think. All in all not a bad buy! Have fun! Darren

Good for you! I think you made out to be the winner. Although your car is damaged it can be fixed and it isn't the end of the world! With a little bit of work and time it'll be as good if not better than before. Besides, you will learn more about your car this way! It can be rewarding if you think about it in that aspect. Additionaly this forum is behind you %100!! Darren

I don't think he has been on here for a while. He must be to pooped to get on when he gets home from the new job! Darren

In esence you are correct, but the tow truck insurance co. probably has no idea of the value of his vehicle or how to perform a correct estimate of repair. He wants his insurance to fight for him. Sates have different protocals, but generally they all work the same. His insurance company will deal with the tow truck company. One way or another they will get their money back that was his claim. Darren

OK! Yes I forgot to say that my ignition key operates the doors also, and it does fit inside the trunk lock. It just doesn't turn the trunk lock. So the glove box takes an entirly different key. That I did not know. I assumed that all the cylinders could be worked with the same key somehow. Well I'll just see if he can't modify the trunk lock to be used with the ignition key. Thanks , Darren

Matt, I would not have opted to have the body shop tear the car down to look for additional damage. First off they will charge you for the tear down. That's money out of the $4,500. Secondly they will not be all that carfull about tearing it down. They will probably break bolts that could have been saved, and chances are they may misplace them. If you are to fix the car yourself it would be nice to have a clue where the proper bolts go in the proper holes . I would tell the shop to hold off if its not too late. Make your case to the insurance co. about how the cost of the grille will be more. Talk the estimate up to $4,900 and take the check!!!! It will not total the car out at that amount. Accept the fact that they will not be held liable anyway due to the age of the vehicle anyhow. Lastly if there is additional damage it would have totaled the car and you would be out a vehicle that was underinsured. Darren

I am trying to have an extra set of keys made for my 48 plymouth. Not to long ago I asked about keys for the truck and glove box. Now that I have the car in my possesion I have the locks for observation. I do not have a key for the glove box or the trunk. I only have a key for the ingnition. I was under the impression that the key blanks for the ignition, glove box, and trunk were all the same. However the glove box and trunk used the same key blank but was cut different from the factory. With that said I went to a lock smith to get them all keyed the same. The ignition key with the glove box and trunk lock assembly. The key I have doesn't fit into the glove box lock. Why? :confused:It should fit but not turn it shouldn't it? The lock smith said that the ignition had a seperate key from the glove box and the trunk. I said that fellows had them all keyed the same before. He was stumped. He explained that it was imposible because the ignition and glove box takes different key groves. So I am asking how did other have this done? In researching different keys on ebay there are two different numbers for ignition and the trunk. The ignition having x1199b and trunk having xo1199b. Looking at the pictures they appear to be the same, but they aren't side by side. How can this be if they can be keyed the same? Darren

Tractor Supply carries it. Darren

I finally got to take the convertible out with the top down. Wow! What a feeling. It was so enjoyable and really undescribable. The sun was warm and the air felt good. Kinda strange.. I thought I should have a helmet on. Never been in a drop top before, and wondered if I'd even like it. You never know till you drive one and that almost means to purchase one. Lots of waves come my way. Actually my hand got kinda tired of waving back. LOL! Anyway I couldn't believe how quiet it was. I expected a lot of wind noise, but hardly any. I couldn't even hear the engine run several different times. I'm not sure, but I think it might have a miss or something. It just seems kinda jerky at about 45 or so. Mostly when its not under a load which is strange. I would expect it to miss more when the gas is poured on, but it just goes. Who knows when it had a tune up last. I bought points, condensor, cap, rotor, and oil filter to start off with. Haven't installed them yet, but I will soon. I made a license plate bracket for the front bumper. I seen one on ebay lately and I wasn't going to pay no $50. Made a nice one for $7! I just bought a flat bar stock 1"x1/8"x3'. Wrapped about an 1" under the bumper back side and continued in front just past the center bolt. Looked like a J. Bolted it and crossed just above that with a 10" piece. Plug welded it to the bracket and painted it black. Looks great! I kept it small so it couldn't be seen from the front of the car. One project down and lots to go! Darren

If you find that the crank needs work are you ready to rebuild the motor? I would just leave it alone if it runs fine. Darren

Where are these made? Whats the manufacturer name of them? Darren