bkahler

Bill, I might be wrong but I think all of the truck trannys had granny low gears. Mine is the New Process 420 syncromesh 4-speed and its has the granny low gear. Not sure what the ratios are but it would be interesting to find out. Sorry I couldn't help more. Brad

Anyone have a picture or layout drawing showing the location for all of the firewall grommets? Its been 10 years since I dismantled my truck and the only camera I used at the time was a digital camera that was good for 320x240 resolution. Unfortunately that decison was a poor one on my part and now I can't make out any detail in the photos. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! Brad

Allen, I really like that one! Its great to see the different approaches people take to tackle a given task. Thanks for sharing. Brad

Problem solved. With the top cover sitting upside down on the bench and a dose of PB Blaster and letting it sit for 15 minutes or so seemed to do the trick. Still had to fiddle with it for a while but then the 3 rails took turns freeing themselves. After installing back on the gearbox it shifts through all the gears and feels good. On to the next problem.......

Ok, I'm a little stumped. I'm slowly getting back into working on my B3B. Its been in the rebuild phase since about 1998. I had the transmission rebuilt at a good shop while I lived in Lincoln NE. I've since moved from there and the truck has not been touched for over 7 years. Well, I installed the transmission today and afterwards found that the shift lever didn't want to move. The transmission is the 4-speed syncroshift as used in the B3G and B3H trucks (page 441 of the B3B service manual). And yes it does bolt up to a 218 The service manual is real vauge on dealing with the top shifter cover. At first I thought maybe there was something wrong inside the transmission so I pulled the top cover and the transmission is still spotless inside. The shifter cover also looks good. What I'm wondering is whether the ball and plungers in the top side of the shifter cover might have frozen in place since the tranmission sat for close to 8 years after having been rebuilt. I vaugely recall that when I first got the transmission back from the shop that it did seem to shift through the gears. I'm thinking that maybe I'll lay the cover upside down and dribble some penetrating fluid into the area where the balls and springs are. I'm hoping its just gummed up from sitting and the balls don't want to release. The shifter shafts themselves move forward and back ever so slightly and rotate just fine. Anyway, just thought I'd share the pain..... Brad

I'm finally ready to torque the crankshaft nut on my 218. My factory service manual has what I think is a typo. It says the "Camshaft starting jaw" should be 108 ft lbs minimum. Since I don't think the truck has a Camshaft starting jaw but I know it does have a Crankshaft starting jaw I'm assuming this is a typo by whoever wrote the manual. So, does 108 ft lbs minimum torque seem right When I did the 188 ci diesel on my tractor it was torqued at 150 ft lbs. Just seems that 108 is kinda low. Thanks! Brad

If you have a local suspension shop thats where I bought mine. First I tried Roberts and Bernbaums, that was a mistake. The ones they sell DID NOT WORK. Worse was I couldn't get them to admit their parts weren't right. I then stopped at a local suspension shop and they had good quality U.S. made shackles. Just my $0.02 ! Brad

Merle, I think all I have is a spare seat back but I'll check and get back with you. Brad

Robert, does your 49 parts truck still have the oil bath air cleaner? If so I'm looking for an original one. See my ad in the parts wanted section. I've attached pictures of the style I'm looking for. I'm out of town for 3 days and won't be able to respond back until then. Thanks, Brad

Merle, I just got notification that the package shipped yesterday. I'll keep you posted on the fit. Are you going to contact Mitchell and ask for a refund or an exchange? Over the years I've heard a lot of bad things about Mitchell Motor Parts but his ebay feedback seems to be pretty good for someone with that many sales. The feedback rating is the main reason I went ahead and purchased. Did you receive the shutoff valve also? Brad

Ok, the little gasket makes sense. I'll have to dig up my engine gasket kit and see if there is something in there that will fit. If this was going to be a daily driver I might consider the pcv system but for now, or at least for a while I'll stick with the draft tube. Thanks for the replies! Brad

About 4 years ago I saw one on ebay go for a reasonable price (around $75 is what I remember). I was going to bid and then got sent out of town unexpectedly. It definitely was a 610-T as I saw the writing on the radio. So there are at least 2 holy grails out there Brad

I decided it was time to replace the little screw that was interferring so I bolted the pump back up to the block and whatdaya know, no interference I must have been tired the other night because I could have sworn there was an interference on one screw. Bottom line is everything ended up working just fine. Go figure..... Thanks for all the replies! Brad

I'm ready to bolt the road draft tube in place on my 218 and noticed that the fit is less than snug when sliding the tube into the block. It does appear that when sinched up the tube flange will be tight against the block. Does this seem correct? Thanks! Brad

In what way didn't it fit? Who did you buy from?

Thanks Mario, I'll keep my eyes on it. Brad

Thanks Merle! Thats kinda what I was hoping to hear. At most the interference is something like .015 or so. A simple screw change would solve it. Thanks again Brad

Don & Norm, The pump is the correct pump. The head and engine block are matched in so far as years go (1951) and the pump looks identical to the oiginal that was on there. Unfortunately during a move I lost the back plate and screws from the original pump. My failing memory seems to remember screws with very thin heads were used on my original pump. The screws on the new pump look like the ones in the blue pump from Don's photo. I'm going to try and look a little closer at the situation tonight and see if I notice anything that might contribute to the problem. I'll also try and post a picture as well. Thanks, Brad

I was getting ready to install the water pump and while holding it up to the block for a test fit I found that one of the small bolt heads on the back side of the pump housing (bolts the sheet metal cover plate to the pump) hits the head. Even with a gasket in place the bolt head is to large. The obvious solution is to grind down the bolt head enough to clear or alternately grind a spot off the head. Somethings gotta give somewhere Any one else run across this little surprise? Thanks, Brad

Dave, would you happen to know the part numer for the replacement regulator? Thanks, Brad

In my eclectic collection of parts I only managed to find one NOS thermostat of the correct style for my truck. I tested it in a boiling water and it works fine but it starts to open at about 155 degrees and is full open around 162 degrees. That leads me to believe its a 160 degree thermostat. The manual says to use a 180 degree thermostat. Living in central Arkansas it gets darned hot here in the summer and only into the 20s for short periods in the winter. I'm inclined to try using this thermostat first to see how well the truck runs with it. Any comments or suggestions Thanks, Brad

Merle, I measured the hole diameter and its .431" which puts it between 27/64" and 7/16". Should be interesting trying to find one that size. I might check with Vintage Power Wagons monday if I have no luck at NAPA. Thanks! Brad

Well it looks like I'm going to have to start looking for a review mirror Fortunately I have two of the extendable type for use on the doors so all is not lost Thanks for all the replys. Brad

Glad I could help Merle, I have several of the valves like you have on your engine. I had planned on doing something like Norm did until I found the correct valve on ebay. Brad

My 51 B3B came with the deluxe heater package along with the fresh air intake system. One thing that was missing was the shut off valve that goes on the back corner of the head. Cruising through MMOPARs offerings I ran across a shutoff valve that he lists for 49-52 dodge, plymouth and desoto cars. Well checking the part number listed and the picture with the B series factory parts manual it turns out that same valve is the one used in the B series trucks as well. This valve allows you to turn off the water flow to the heater from inside the cab. If your truck is missing this valve here's your chance to pick one up. He had 7 available (6 now!) at $56 plus $6 shipping. Here is the auction number if you're interested. 140083438312 Brad