bkahler

Very interesting observation. I never realized there were differences in this area of the cab.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised by that but I am Considering how badly my seats smelled of mouse urine as I was cleaning them I think I'll find some rubber plugs to pop into the holes. At least I can make the critters work for their ill gotten gains.

I was tightening the cab mounting bolts and while doing so I realized there were no plugs or caps for the opening in the floor. It appears that opening does open to the outside. Are there supposed to be plugs for the openings? If not, why not? Seems like the perfect route for mice to enter into the cab.

Actually found some time yesterday morning and this morning to complete a couple of tasks on the truck. I ran the wires from under the dash to the fuel pump and completed the wiring at the pump and the gas tank sending unit. On the sending unit I added a ground wire to ensure it always had a good ground. It's not an original idea of mine, I copied someone (Possibly Merle?) who did the same thing with their new sending unit. I used some of the new aluminum wire ties that I bought recently. I think they add a nice touch And the last task completed was the oil gauge line from the firewall to the block. With that tube installed there are two things to complete before trying to start the engine. First is connecting the fuel pump wires under the dash and the second is to fill engine with oil and radiator with coolant. Getting closer Brad

That is the the seal for the rear section of the fender, not the front where they bolt to the front panel/cowl.

Can you provide a link? I've searched their site and couldn't find it.

Steering gear linkage looks good.

I went back to the parts book looking for the thickness but couldn't find the information. For the seal in question the parts manual lists the code as 12-02-11. Under that code number there are two part numbers 1242-974 and 1192-032. The first number is for Series 1 trucks and made from Butyl rubber. The second number appears to be listed for all series and was available by the foot and is just listed as rubber. Steele Rubber reproduces the 1242-974 seal and it's definitely not the one that goes between the fender and the nose cowl. I could not find any online info about the 1199-032 seal. I'm fairly sure I saw 3/32" listed somewhere but it might have been in conjunction with some other seal or component. I've already bought the 3/32" so that's what I will likely end up using.

Makes me wonder if maybe Dodge didn't changed what they used during the C model production. I think I still have a piece of the original rubber in a box somewhere.

Is it possible the tar like sealant was actually melted rubber? After 60 to 70 years I'm guessing that might be the case.

When I dismantled my truck the seal was still there but it was no where near standing proud of the fender. I'm sure the seal shrunk over the years but even so I don't think you could have seen it once the fender was bolted to the nose piece. I plan on tracing the fender and then cutting the seal probably about 1/8" to 3/16" smaller.

According to the factory parts lists the rubber was 3/32" thick. I bought a 3' x 3' x 3/32" sheet of neoprene rubber. Have not installed as yet.

I believe a nut plate of some sort is used behind the belts that are fastened just behind the B pillar. Looking closer at my truck the area where the red truck has the shoulder harness fastened has room behind it for a nice sized nut plate. I'm at a point where I need to decide whether to buy belts with shoulder harness or just lap belts. I guess I better make a decision pretty soon .

I was looking through a bunch of pictures that I've saved off the internet over the years and came across this picture. Every other installation of seatbelts with shoulder harnesses that I've seen have the mounting point just behind the door on the B pillar in the sheet metal. This particular installation has it on the seam where the top of the cab meets the corner. Looking at my truck that seems to be a fairly strong section. Anyone know who this truck might below to or seen any others using this install location?

I believe that is the part number assigned by Dodge. My 51 B3B had the following tag in the bottom cushion. Like you I also found the mouse poop and shells

Be prepared to let some air out of the tires.

The above link seems to be dead This particular truck caught my eye because it has what appear to be the same 6,000 GROSS tags as my truck has. Anyone know the history of this truck?

Yeah, count me in for at least one pair for sure.

That might explain why one of the side walls of my bed is bowed out about 1" ?

I used a rust converter primer product called Corroseal that seemed to do a really nice job on a couple of place on my truck. No complaints from me on how it performed.

I can understand 1-ton trucks having such heavy duty springs. What I've never understood is why my 1/2-ton would have similar overload springs. I wonder how these springs affected the 6,000 GROSS tags that were on my truck

Sadly I'm going to have to cancel my plans for attending this year. As of today none of the sheet metal has been repainted due to weather and other associated issues trying to paint in cold weather. It's just been to cold and humid to paint. If the painter had a fully heated shop 24/7 it wouldn't be a problem but that's not the case so no painting until early next week. Paint isn't the only concern, the price of diesel is also a factor. At todays diesel prices I'd have to get a mortgage on my house to pay for the fuel. 5,000 miles at maybe 12 mpg avg....I'll let you do the math. With luck by this time next year I'll be retired, fuel prices will be down, the world will be sane and the truck will be done. Those conditions would make for a fun trip If the barbecue is on next year there is a much better chance that I'll make it. Y'all have fun

I've used various props for holding the pedal down over the years, unfortunately I don't have the seat in yet which makes using some sort of prop a little problematic. I've never done pressure bleeding before but I bought one just recently with the hopes of solving this problem.

Yes, it's possible but I would rather not have to do that unless I know for certain I have to break into the hydraulics. The hoses are brand new so if one of them failed this early then that doesn't bode well for the rest of the truck. I'm going to start with doing another bleed, not sure if it will be pressure or pedal. Pressure bleeding I can do myself otherwise I'll have to track someone down to help pump the pedal. If bleeding doesn't solve the problem then I'll pull the wheels and make sure everything is free and lubed probably.

Yeah, each day the scale is tilting more towards the rough cut side up than shiny side up