austinsailor

It was probably sold at Columbia Motors, which was in downtown Columbia, Plymouth Desoto. In 62 I was working around the corner at Boone County Motors, the Dodge Chrysler dealer since maybe '29. They tore down Columbia Motors in '62. The downtown location of Chrysler went on a few more years. I don't know who owns the old Desoto, but I'm going to find out. I need to know him!

Columbia. Was looking for a couple minor repairs for my Vette, found them in the shop. Big dealership ( Bob McCosh), they have one guy who works on carbureted things. I guess that is almost a lost art.

Only 1 repaint. Has the auto type transmission, tip toe, I guess. No restoration. Inside looks pretty much like a 2 year old car. Strangely, on the rack around the corner is a 60 Lark made up to be a police car. Someone is getting it as a birthday present.

Sitting there after being serviced was - a 1950 Desoto. 1 family car, originally bought by his Grandmother.

I went out to finish pressure washing my drive after writing the above. Lots of time to think. Let me get this straight and make sure I understand. You have a good running 265. it's out of the car now. Only problem is low oil pressure at idle. So. instead of diagnosing the problem, which, by your account, could result in a $1000 repair job, you want to hack in a small, undesirable 23" motor on which you'll spend $750 plus shipping, plus probably a couple hundred on mounts and a fan, hoses and probably more, and then overhaul or repair the desired 265 in the future, spending another $1000? Am I stupid or missing something?

As to putting the 23" block in, I did this in a Fargo. I welded an extension on the front motor mount, bolted it in. Add a fan shroud and find hoses to fit, you're done. Rear is the same, nothing moves. As to your present block,invest in a pan gasket. Pull the pan, get some plastigauge, find out what your clearances are. You might get buy with some undersize bearings (.001 or .0015 under) if they are now standard. You may also find that your oil pump is worn. I'd do a little diagnostics before going the route you're suggesting.

I find that whatever height they are, if I add casters so I can easily move things around, they are then about right. Being about 6'2", I find that most things are too low for me as they come. Casters solve 2 problems.

I've seen these come apart as JBNeal describes. I agree, not worth the potiential problems.

"I know you eliminated air leaks as a possible cause early on, but just to double check, wave an unlit propane torch, gas on, not lit, around the carb base, vaccum line connections, and all manifold to block connections." That certainly could fit my symptoms, although I'm not sure what could be leaking. I don't recall having this problem before changing motors, so it's more than likely. Wiper vacuum is already shut off, now all I have to do is locate a propane torch! Surely there is one somewhere in my shop. I did put on a different manifold to replace the original cracked one. To make it even more likely, I didn't realize the choke on this does not increase the idle setting, no connection between the manual choke and throttle. However, with just a bit of choke it runs reasonably well, just at a much higher speed. That would indicate it's getting air from somewhere, and the choke is making it rich enough to run. No choke, it's drawing too much air, mixture is too lean even if the idle circuit is working. Symptoms all fit, much as I hate to admit it this late in the game. Maybe I just need to put on one of my dual carb setups! That would make things simpler - not!

Well, I spent some time putting it back together. All looked good. No change. I'm missing something. When I get time I'll probably take another carburator that is in worse shape and start over with it. This is really frustrating.

My 40 dodge required something like 70 octane, according to the manual.

Our old cars have the fuel exposed to the atmosphere. Today's don't, with fuel injection and sealed systems. Today's gas evaporates much easier when exposed to the atmosphere. Has nothing to do with octane level. On another note relative to this thread - a few years ago I listened to a chemical engineer explain a lot of things to do with chemicals. Most was boring except his talk on gas and the different octane levels. As mentioned elsewhere in this trread, higher octane burns slower. Or more accurately, takes more to make it explode rather than burn evenly. When this guy explained it at the molecule level, it made sense. The higher the octane, the more even and rounded the molecule is. The lower the octane, the more jagged and odd shaped the molecule. So when it burns, the higher octane molecule has less surface exposed to the flame or heat, so it doesn't ignite as quickly. Sort of like trying to burn a stack of newspapers(high octane) or a crumpled up newspaper (low octane). The crumpled up one ignites nearly all at once, the stack slowly burns from the edges. In the fuel, the low octane starts burning all over, actually makes an explosion if hot enough, where the high octane doesn't have enough surface exposed to burn to the core at once unless it's really hot (higher compression). So, there it is, octane for dummies, something even I could understand!

I just read this entire thread, and am left with one question - why does anyone think welding a lump on the fuel pump arm will increase the stroke? It'll alter the starting point of the stroke, but not the distance. ???

Yes, less than half. Thanks. NAPA failed me on this one!

Brian has a selection of molyblocks in his yard, including the 413 industrial in his truck he uses regularly. When he replaced the original 331 many years ago he found his starter pedal rubbed the block because it was wider. He and I measured several motors and found his industrial 413 was a bit wider, I think about 1/4". Head bolt to head bolt, where we measured them, were not the same.

All the 30" motors had 12 ports. I have a couple 331 ci motors, 12 ports.

Probably also the distributor to get vacuum advance and proper advance curve.

The 413 block is a bit wider than the 331, although it's close enough you'd have to put a tape on it to tell. Not sure about a 377, never saw one to tell. when I saw this motor I thought it would be simple enough with the factory motor number, so I didn't check other details. I regret it now! not sure if it's stuck, so even if I was there checking the stroke might be a challenge. i asked here a few months ago and got no answer, was hoping someone new would see this and have some info. I suppose if I get serious enough I'll just have to make a trip.

If it in fact is.

If it in fact is.

Flathead 30" dodge molyblock. I'm 1500 miles away, so more details would be hard to get. I thought at the time the motor number would be sufficient, but it doesn't turn up anywhere. dual carbs, dual exhaust. don't know what an "Rb" is.

Still trying to figure out what this motor is. I believe it's a 413 but can't find it listed anywhere. It's in about a 55 wrecker, may or may not be original.

I've been kind of quiet for a few days. My girlfriend decided it was time to pull the carpet out and tile my house (we'd talked about it for some time) and she was here volunteering to help. Stupid carburetor was put on hold and sat in the laquer thinner for days while we put in 12 hour days on tile. I did tile while she mixed mud, cut tile and mowed my yard and pulled weeds when her part was caught up. Carb could wait - I know my priorities! Almost done, so I slipped away last night and rinsed it, put it in WD 40 rust desolver (couldn't find any evapo-rust locally) overnight. That stuff did a good job. Slipped out a couple hours ago, washed it all, blew it out and put most of it together. Might get to finish tomorrow. I do have to wonder why a Carter BB kit has gone from around $21-$22 to about $50! How the heck did they manage that?

Got a fresh kit in hand, carb is completely disassembled and soaking overnight in a gallon of lacquer thinner. For what it's worth, dwell, timing etc is all set. No vacuum leaks. Just a clog somewhere, I'm sure.

Amish in this area still use them.