TodFitch

Don't know where you got the first part, but the latter starting with "Plymouth engine design was quite advanced for the era. . . ." is from my website.

I don't know if the '35 is like the '33 and '34 or like the later '36 as the one parts book I don't have is for '35. For '33 and '34 the shift lever is bolted to a frame cross member and simply extends a shaft into the otherwise open top of front of the transmission. There is a boot/seal that goes between the transmission and the frame cross member to seal things up. In that early type of transmission, the top cover is just the top cover. The shift rails are held in by separate bars across the top of the shift rails and the lock out is a small ball bearing under the shift rails. Since '35 was the first year for synchromesh, my guess is that a bunch of other things changed too, so the above about the '33 and '34 may not be applicable.

Congratulations on making the deal! 25,000 miles on bias ply tires? I've been getting closer to 10,000 miles on the new production tires in that size. And the new tires seem to need lots of balance weights which I did not have to use back in the '70s when I used Sears Allstate tires on the car. I guess tire quality for limited production collector sizes is not what it used to be. I think N/C industries might have reproduction passenger tail lights. I'm very sure they have the stands, not as sure they have the buckets. Their contact information is on my vendors page at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/vendor Kathy Schrak makes interior kits for the car, you might check and see if you can get the carpet from her. Contact information is on the same page. Looks like a number of detail things are incorrect on the car which probably won't matter if you are using it as a tour, parade or just plain fun car. But the generator, carburetor, and coil are incorrect if you are going for judging. At least the block is a '33 or '34. Interesting plumbing for the heater return.

California motor vehicle code says they should be mounted "on the rear". I guess a lawyer could argue what "on the rear" means. Maybe if you got a vintage tow truck rig you could mount those lights as far forward the driver's seat.

On my car the force of the exhaust will move the heat riser to the hot position once the RPM is high enough. You can readily see this when the engine is cold by blipping the throttle while watching the counter weight. Also on my car, it has to get fully warmed up (like driving the car for more than a few miles on a warm day) before the counterweight stays in the hot position when the engine is idling. Looking at it, I think it works by having the spring weaken when it gets hot. Then gravity acting on the counterweight and the flow of exhaust against the flapper valve in the manifold move the assembly to the hot position. When it cools off the spring regains its strength and pulls the flapper to the cold position against the force of gravity on the weight.

Antique Auto Parts Cellar should have rebuild kits for your fuel pump, water pump and carburetor. And they can do the rebuild on those things too. Carburetor kits are probably also available through your local better auto supply store. Replacement water pumps for the 6 cylinder engine are being made, maybe the 6 and the 8 have the same pump. If so then you should be able to get it through your better local auto supply store too. Have you checked that the fuel pick up in the tank is not obstructed? Or the flex hose between the frame and the fuel pump? If the parts are old on the car then it is possible that your flex hose and the diaphragm in the fuel pump are being destroyed by the alcohol in today's gas. I've seen old rubber fuel line that looked good on the outside that was swelled closed on the inside because of today's gas.

Then something in the alignment or geometry of the parts is different between having the wheel off the ground and having it on the ground. To me that suggests the wheel bearings and/or as mentioned earlier in the thread the castle nut that adjusts the bearings.

Nice!

Perhaps if you live in a dry climate. It definitely helps on cool weather cold start drivability where I live.

Looks great! If that is not the original upholstery then it was re-done a while a go matching the style of the original exactly. Looks like a drive to Grass Valley might be in my future: I'd really like to see this one "in person" once you get it.

A special page, not in the forum area, will require action from GTK. For what it is worth, I took my '33 apart in the fall of 1978. The next time it ran enough to go around the block (with woefully misadjusted brakes) was New Year's Day 1998. Officially it was legal on the road the whole time as I never filed a non-op on it and I paid the registration for all those years. What finally got me off my butt to get the last of the work done to get it going was California starting to require proof of insurance: I hadn't bother insuring it for all the years it was apart. Cost of insurance was high enough that I either needed to file a non-op or get it running so I could enjoy driving it.

A sealed canister bypass filter does not need to be replaced at every oil change, only when it gets filled/clogged. Easiest way is to touch it after the engine has been run hard. If the filter is hot to touch then oil is still going through it. If it is only engine compartment warm then it is time to replace. So $45 for an oil filter is not $45 at every oil change. Full flow filters are different as you never want them to get clogged so you replace them every oil change. When the L-6 engine first came out, oil filters were standard and all cars got them. They changed that later starting with the lower priced model (standard, business, Roadking, etc.) not having a filter. Obviously as a manufacturing cost savings. For what it is worth the MoPar replaceable element filter canister I have on my shelf is designed to go in the same bracket that held the throwaway canister. So, in some cases, you don't need to do much more than re-route the input oil line if you swap out to a replaceable element filter.

Are LED or HID available in 6v? I'm pretty sure you can still get the old 6006 7" diameter 6v bulbs or the H6006 halogen equivalent at the local auto supply store but I was not aware of LED or HID kits for 6v.

And if it does wiggle, tighten up the bearings to verify that they aren't the issue. Not good to run them tight but you can certainly do that to remove play there when checking for play in the king pings.

Sounds like a local region thing to me: The AACA national requires no meetings or attending meets. Or even owning a car. About the only thing they require is money for dues. The have a nice magazine which is mostly why I am a member. I've been a member of the AACA national since the 1970s, joining because it was a requirement to join the local region. And the region I joined was a good one. But when I moved out of that area in the late 1970s I never found a region in the areas I've lived since that I "clicked" with. Regions of other clubs, yes. Sometimes a local only club, yes. But not a AACA region. Seems like clubs and regions of national clubs attract or recruit new members who have the same mindset as those who are already members so they change slowly if they change at all.

Maybe not a 318, but it might have had an early hemi and disc brakes: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/1950-chrysler-crown-imperial-four-wheel-disc-brakes-standard-but-not-like-modern-discs/ http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1408_chryslers_pioneering_disc_brake_system_explained/?__federated=1

Original question was about what the idle RPM should be. I can't find a reference for what it should be in any of my maintenance books published in that era. There are references to how high the oil pressure should be at "idle speed" or what the manifold vacuum should be at "idle speed" but I don't see anything that says exactly what "idle speed". 750 sounds high to me, I believe I have mine set around 450 or 500 but I imagine it would need to be higher for a car with fluid drive.

'35 and up should have synchros. Late '31 through '34 are constant mesh with sliding dog clutches but no synchro lock out. The late '31 and '32 are with the old four cylinder engine and are a totally different setup than the '33 and '34 which might actually bolt up to a later car.

Don't know. I've heard that it can be years but the source for that was suspect. Only fuel tank I have personally worked on was right off a car and it was off because it was leaking. In that case I cleaned it the best I could, took precautions against having any mixture left inside near an ignitable level, and then used a high wattage flameless soldering iron to seal the leaks. Everything worked out but I don't know if it was because (1) I was lucky, (2) because I'd taken sufficient precautions, or (3) because it would not have exploded anyway.

Purchase and sale negotiations should be off line using the PM facility...

The Smart & Final grocery store near me sells dry ice: A little of that in the tank would soon fill it with enough CO2 to keep the old gas from igniting very easily.

Might want to try sealing the tank off and putting some pressurized air into it to see if it will pop back out. On the other hand there is a risk of doing other damage, so if it doesn't work you did not hear it here.

Going back the the original post, it seems there are still some things your daughter has to do, like steer and dim the headlights for on coming traffic. GM is introducing "super cruise" control that will steer and maintain following distances, etc. in a couple of years: http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/cadillac/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2012/Apr/0420_cadillac.html And "smart headlights" might be illuminating the road but not blinding the other (computerized) drivers: http://www.cs.cmu.edu/smartheadlight/

+1 on Greg's post. I guess I should have mentioned this in my first post: Coming back from the Plymouth Owners Club meet in Tucson last year, I ran between 60 and 65 MPH (trying for 62 or 63) most of the way from Tucson to the Bay Area a distance of about 800 miles. My '33 has a 4.375 rear end with tires that are very close to the same mounted diameter as used on the '46 to '48 Plymouths. If I'd had a 4.11 rear end instead that same engine RPM would have been between 65 and 70 MPH. Basically your car could have done 65 all day when it was new. And still can if it is in good mechanical shape. But it will not sound like a modern car when it is doing it.

Given a 4.11 or taller rear end ratio and stock size or larger diameter tires, you should be able to cruise at 65 in a stock Plymouth from 1933 up including your car. That is assuming, of course, that everything is in good repair. However driving 60, 65 or 70 in Los Angeles freeway traffic without a lot better braking than my '33 has is not something I would look forward to. If you are insistent on installing a T5 then I think Don can give you "REAL experience" as he has had a T5 in his car for a number of years and many thousands of miles now.