TodFitch

The faster you are going the harder downshift double clutching is. At least that is my experience. I don't understand your comment about adjusting the clutch pedal to the point where you have to press the clutch to start the motor. . . Originally it would have had conventional brake fluid which is basically DOT3. Some previous owner may have converted to DOT5. When relatively new, DOT5 fluid might still show purple dye. DOT3 and DOT5 smell different but I don't know how to describe the smells. DOT3 acts as a paint remover while DOT5 does not.

Do a calculation on the current draw for the original lights: That is probably what the original light switch, before decades of corrosion set in, was designed for. Dollars to donuts that your halogen bulbs draw more current than that, so you use the switch to operate a relay that is designed for the load.

Not sure when they stopped, but having a push-pull knob on the windshield header was very common in the 1930s. And after inside sun visors came out, the knob would be around the sun visor.

That was posted from Clements, California where there is a city named Stockton about 20 miles away. I'd hazard a guess that the city in California is the one being referred to.

Antique Auto Parts Cellar, also known as Then-and-Now Automotive carries the thermostatic springs.

For the detail oriented, they could have photoshopped the yellow center line markers to white for the scenes with cars earlier than the very late 1960s. Fun ad though.

I too have ads blocked via a free blocker. But to give GTK the little revenue that the ads generate I have enabled ads for this site only. I am using an alternative web search engine that does not make its money selling advertising and have taken a number of measures to reduce the tracking that Google, Yahoo and others can do on me. For that reason, or because my browsing history is so innocuous, I seem to only see the P15-D24 sponsor ads.

Tempered glass for windshield? Is that legal? I am of the impression that windshields must be safety glass.

You want a low pressure (vacuum) to pull clean air through the crankcase. Upstream of the carburetor you are at atmospheric pressure so while you will relieve a high pressure situation in the crankcase you won't be moving air through it.

When I was getting things back together, I had the spark plugs out to reduce the load on the starter and then I cranked the starter in about 10 or 15 second bursts to get the gas pump bowl full and to get some oil pressure showing on the gauge. Short bursts on the starter with fairly long rest pauses between to avoid over heating the motor as it is not designed for continuous operation. Once the oil pressure gauge showed something other than zero when the starter was cranking and there was gas in the fuel sediment bowl I put the plugs back in and set the ignition switch to on (my foot starter pedal is independent of the ignition switch) and fired it up.

If a link was provided to the original web site instead, then people would also be able to click on the thumbnail images to get full sized pictures. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge By the way, that page is one of the more linked to ones on my web site.

65 MPH works out to about 3600 RPM which is what the factory engineers did their 50 hour tests at. Except that they had the dynamometer set to require max brake HP and on the flats I don't need full throttle. Normally I back it off to a little above 60 (about 3200 RPM) as I believe that is better for the engine for long term operation. And all of that is when the freeway is the only option to get where I want to go. Back roads at 55 MPH or less is the sweet spot for the car.

I don't recall reading that one in the California motor vehicle code. Not saying its not there, just saying I don't recall it. I am pretty sure you can't have a white light pointing other than ahead while the vehicle is in motion, but if the spotlight is off or pointed only forward when on then I think you will be okay here. I'll be seeing a retired CHP officer tomorrow, I will try to remember to ask about this. But it is very likely that the rules vary from state to state so check your local laws.

Check your tire's mounted diameter (should be on the tire manufacturer's website or you can measure it) and your rear end ratio and then plug it into a calculator to see what your engine RPMs will be. For long engine life you will want to keep your cruise RPMs no higher than 3200 to 3300. My calculator is at http://www.ply33.com/Misc/speed#calc With stock tires and stock 4.375 rear end, my long distance cruise speed on the freeway if I want to get somewhere is between 60 and 65. I've had it up to 70 as indicated on the GPS and while the engine seemed happy it was definitely pushing the limits of my 81 year old design suspension. Back roads at 45 to 55 MPH are a lot more fun than the freeway.

First PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) systems were on some very high end cars in the late 1920s. Basically mainstream Detroit ignored it as they deemed the road draft ventilation as "good enough" and a lot cheaper to make. Exception being for military as they wanted to be able to ford fairly deep water where the draft tube would be a problem. Later, it was found that the vast majority of automotive based air pollution from an "uncontrolled" engine was actually from the crankcase not the exhaust. Solution was to use the 1920s invention and you get a twofer: Less pollution and longer engine life. Only down side being a few cents more in the manufacturing. I've been amused/annoyed by people who think that PCV stands for "pollution control valve" and immediately decide it has to be removed. A fellow I once knew just sealed it up. He couldn't understand why he kept having bad seals and leaks. A pressurized crankcase will do that. You have to have some ventilation. The question is will it work at all speeds and where does the stuff go when it leaves the engine. With a draft tube, it only works at speed, maybe 30 MPH or so depending on design. And the crankcase fumes which contain unburned hydrocarbons, does into the atmosphere. With a PCV system it should vent properly at all times with the possible exception of full throttle acceleration and the unburned hydrocarbons go into the engine to be burned.

When did trucks go to an electric temperature gauge? My ’46-’54 Plymouth factory service manual indicates that Plymouths through at least ’54 had a “mechanical” temperature gauge.

It has been a while, but I don't recall ever paying that much to have my disk and pressure plate rebuilt by the local brake and friction company. Don always posts about a place in Tennessee that does good work for a reasonable price. I don't know how shipping would factor into that. Anyway, it only costs a couple of phone calls to price out the rebuild option from either a place near you or one recommended by other forum members.

And some will agree with you. My opinion is that coils are extremely reliable. I am still running the original 81 year old coil on my car. I have a couple of spares on the shelf just in case including one with the clamp on adapter for the firewall mounting. I expect the spares will continue to live on the shelf for many years to come as I don't expect the one on the car to fail anytime soon. I've only had one coil failure ever, happened to be on a '57 VW and it was not a "hard failure". That is, it would still run most of the time, only cutting out when it got hot. On close inspection there was a crack on the secondary tower and it was leaking.

On the '33 there is a wood piece, like a sill board at the bottom of a wall in the house, between the frame and the body. Is this true on the '35? If so, I'd be careful of any welding or cutting torch. Definitely have a fire extinguisher on hand. . .

Learned something new about the '35. I know that the '33 has no body fasteners to the X member. I strongly suspect the '34 does not either. In '36 or '37 they went to the perimeter rubber isolated body mounts. I guess they were still experimenting every year on how to mount the body to the frame.

If you want an easy place to download that video, it has been at the Internet Archive for several years now: https://archive.org/details/SailingAlong

Caption says the DeSoto was parked so there is a chance no one was in it when it was hit. Only other vehicle I see photos of is a minivan. It must have been going at a pretty good clip to push the DeSoto that far through the sign post.

I adjust mine when the pedal travel seems more than I'd like. Initial adjustment on new shoes does not last as long as subsequent adjustments as the shoes wear in a little faster until the full length of the lining is matched to the drum. And, of course, your brake lining wear will depend on your driving style.

From a moderator point of view, it would be nice to be able to move a post from a forum to the classified section.

I don't know of a source for that wadded up twisted paperish stuff in the grooves that the interior panels are nailed to. I kept mine as intact as possible in the groove and then wedged some soft wood into the spots where it was thin, missing or damaged to give some purchase to the panel nails and staples. On the '33 and I suspect also for the '35, the floor boards are part of the body assembly and do not attach to the frame separately. Once all the body bolts are removed the body and floor boards should come off as one assembly. (If you look at photos of the body drop station on the assembly line, it looks like a complete body with interior and floor boards is dropped onto the frame, so it make sense that the boards are mounted to the body only.) I am not sure what you are referring to when you write "It loosened up when I was using the impact screwdriver to remove the 12 pan head screws in the 'X' frame." Maybe somebody screwed floor boards to the frame during a repair.