TodFitch
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Everything posted by TodFitch
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Looks like Clements is on the road from Stockton, Calif. to Plymouth, Calif. It also looks like it is within a day's tour distance from the SF Bay area. . . Would you mind having some Golden State Region, Plymouth Club members showing up? -
Based on my handheld GPS, my speedometer is a trifle low at 60 MPH but the odometer is very close. I'd trust the GPS over any car's speedometer/odometer.
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I think you want as much dwell as you can get so the soft iron core in the coil becomes fully saturated. But if the point gap is too small then it will arc over too much when it opens and the field in the coil will not collapse quickly enough to give you a hot spark. So if your distributor cam is too badly worn so that 0.020" does not end up with the specified dwell, then I'd compromise: I would not go too much below 0.02 but I'd try to get the dwell a bit close to the specified one.
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One of good things about marque specific clubs is that they are a good source for information and parts. In this case, I'd recommend that he check out the Dodge Brothers Club. http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/dbcwebsite/index.php I have never been a member of it but it looks like they are pretty well organized. Without Internet access he won't get to the web site, but that club pre-dates the Internet and I assume they have local chapters and a magazine, etc.
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The earliest Chrysler product that I am aware of with fender skirts was the 1934 Airflow. Trivia: Apparently the only difference in the fender skirts for late 1930s Chrysler products was the emblem. Other than that they were, for any given year at least, interchangeable between makes.
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Neat to hear that someone out there is dedicated enough to recreate and fly a Wright Flyer of that vintage. I have seen some documentaries about reconstructing the original plane but this sounds a little different. Here is another one to be kept flying. It is for sale but the price tag is a bit out of my range. . . http://www.ipass.net/ginkgo/N9612home.html
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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&saddr=Waukesha+County+Fairgrounds' date='+WI&daddr=60th+%26+Bradley+Road,+Milwaukee,+WI&sll=43.16309,-87.98481&sspn=0.007654,0.018132&ie=UTF8&z=11&om=1[/url'] Looks like about 50 miles round trip.
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Not very far recently, only about 600 or 700 miles round trip for the longest trip last summer. But back when I was a young wippersnapper I drove the 1933 from Baltimore, MD to Tucson, AZ via Twin Lakes WI, Dallas TX (about 2850 miles). That same summer I drove from Tucson to Reno NV, San Francisco, San Diego and back to Tucson (about 2050 miles). Finally there were a couple of round trips between Tucson and Los Angeles when I moved there at the end of the summer (about 2500 miles for two and half round trips). I guess that summer was good for about 7000 miles. I am pretty sure the car can still do it. I am not so sure about myself. . .
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Check you local "good" auto supply. Ask to look in the paper catalog for truck heater parts and equipment. I think you will find what you are looking for and your store can probably get what ever you select the same or next day. Got to keep the local stores in business. . .
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Adjust by bending the linkage between the Bourdon tube and the needle. Don't bend the needle: You will damage it. On the older cars the gauge is actually marked in degrees. I set mine to read 212 when the bulb was immersed in boiling water. If you damage the capillary and release the ether when you remove the gauge from the car all is not lost. See: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
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My experience with the old mechanical flasher units is that the more current being drawn the faster they flash. If one side seems fine (and all the lights work) and the other side is fast with a light not working, then I'd be looking for a short circuit on the fast side.
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I saw this in the print version of "The Onion" today then checked and saw it is also online. I thought it was hilarious! http://www.theonion.com/content/news/ford_reintroduces_model_t_line
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Hi Lou, I assume you got the email I sent you on a possible source for those parts.
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A threaded nut/bolt converts the torque applied into tension on the fastener. Basically the threads act as a continuous inclined plane. If you look at the force vectors, you will see that for the same torque value the finer threads will give you more tension on the fastener. Since you are actually after a specific tension on the fasteners you need less torque with fine threads to get to the same clamping force. Lubrication does make a difference since friction in the threads will result in more force being wasted in over coming the friction. And also because the friction will result in a rotational load on the fastener which is undesirable.
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Probably a 1129: Single contact 6v 21 cp bulb. See: http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/lightbulbs That should still be available but maybe not at your local bubble wrap auto supply. Doing a Google search on "1129 lamp 6v" brings up a number of possibilities including what appears to be a quartz-halogen replacement.
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Yes. And you get positive crankcase ventilation all the time. Not just when you are moving at highway speeds. Actually, as I understand it, the PVC valve is not a one-way valve but a spring loaded metering valve to control the flow based on engine vacuum. Otherwise you would have high flow at idle when you don't need it as much (most blow by is when the throttle is open allowing a larger charge of fuel/air into the cylinders).
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Wrong: A bypass filter does an excellent job. It can filter much smaller particles and depending on internal media also hold water and acid until the engine is warm enough to vaporize them and exhaust them through the crankcase ventilation system. A bypass filter system does not, however, guarantee that all oil is filtered on every pass through the engine. The best filtering would be to have both bypass (to get small particles and control water and acid) and full flow (to guarantee that at least some filtering is performed before the oil gets to the bearings). Do some web searches on oil filtering and I think you will find that the really serious people setup systems that contain both types of filters.
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That would be a good price. He could also look on eBay as that type of filter comes up fairly often. When my stock of canisters run out I will install the replaceable element type filter that I have purchased just for that reason. In the meantime the following link lists a number of the various obsolete filter numbers that are equivalent to the WIX51035 that one can look for in swap meets or on eBay: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-C
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Anyone know the best source for `37 Plym Conv. parts?
TodFitch replied to David Maxwell's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Have him call Bob Semichy. Bob's number is in the Golden State Region roster. -
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From the photos I'd guess you have a PD. You can verify that by looking at the serial number which should be on the passenger door hinge post. You will want to know because many parts, including headlights and hood sides, are different between the PC, PCXX and the PD. You can't just get a "1933 Plymouth hood" and expect to have it fit.
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Gee. I thought this was going to be about inexpensive web site hosting. Shows you my head is in the wrong place.
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I too agree with Don, Tim and Merle on what is sprung and unsprung weight.
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Is this a Pottymouth? (From http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how20/1ae60e0796b84010vgnvcm1000004eecbccdrcrd.html )