TodFitch

Especially in this day and age where telephony charges can be very cheap. If I wanted I could set up a 800 number for people calling me and it would cost about 0.03$/minute. That's $1.80 for an hour long call. If a retailer couldn't afford that without complaining something is really wrong with them.

When did they start putting an access hole over the sending unit? My 33 PD does not have that which makes dealing with the fuel sending unit a real PITA.

In the "North American Numbering Plan" (NANP) there are a number of "toll-free" "area codes". They aren't really free of charges, just that the entity receiving the calls pays rather than the caller. "Area codes" are similar to what many other countries call "city codes". Anyway, the 800, 888 and some other area codes are free to the caller (if dialed in North America) but cost the company you are calling every time you call. So they don't like receiving expensive international calls on the 800 number. I am a bit surprised that you can actually call the 800 number. In times past those were blocked from being called from outside of North America. AndyB's text implies that he is willing to talk for a long time if you call his geographic area code (the 617 number) because you are paying for the call. But he wants to cut his costs and only pay for your call if it is cheap and you are order parts (i.e. only call the 800 number from inside North America and be ready to order parts). It is very likely that both numbers ring on the same physical phone...

It sure is not obvious to download a copy... I gave up after a few minutes and just read it online blown up a bit so that my old eyes could make it out.

Got the Chrysler part number for the seal? I find that NAPA online is pretty good about finding a cross if you give it the Chrysler number and click on the "interchange" box.

I think I used a long bar with a hole drilled in one end: Bolt that to the flange with another bolt on the flange such that the two bolts and bar will keep the flange from turning once the bar gets to the floor. (Easy to see, hard to describe.) Now you can use a breaker bar on your socket to work on the flange nut.

Also maybe Egge Machine in California.

Per the video you posted, there is a plastic liner on the inside of the concrete. And that plastic is stated to be such that you can setup a sterile medical environment inside. So however much water can get through the cement is most likely held back from entering the inside by the plastic liner.

Looks like one of the segments of "Master Hands" that has been on the Prelinger collection of videos over at www.archive.org for several years now.

LED stands for "Light Emitting Diode" and diodes only pass current in one direction so, yes they are polarity sensitive.

You can also visit the part section of my web site at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric Enter "brake hose" into the search field and that gets you a number of entries, the top one is a link to part type code 5-62-01 for "Brake Flexible Hose Assembly". Click on the link an you get http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5#5-62-01 Scroll down through the various models to yours and see what Chrysler part numbers you need, so click on them and you'll see the references to modern parts. No, I'm not going to give it to you. You'll have to look for yourself. You might want to book mark the http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric page. Lots of stuff, I hope good, there too.

Last I checked, which was a long time ago because I'm lazy and been paying the "mow, blow and go" guys to come once a week, my lawn mower starts up on the first try. Just plug the extension cord in and squeeze the switch on the handle. I think the newer ones have large batteries so you don't have to worry about mowing the extension cord. As for the old Plymouth, I use oil with far more ZDDP in it than the car saw brand new. I get it at the local auto supply. Their cheapest store brand multi-weight. Why spend more? With respect to gas, I did rebuild the fuel system with modern rubber components. Modern for 10 to 15 years ago that is. So far, knock on wood, no noticeable deterioration of the components yet. Just a little tendency to vapor lock after driving at freeway speeds in 95+F for long periods of time. And I did not drive the car too much last winter, so it went over 7 months on one tank of gas with no drivability issues even without using Stabil. I think a lot of the hype about needing gas or oil additives is just an attempt to separate a bunch of people from their money. One item on the list of things people worry about on old cars is the use of radial tires on older wheels. Will split the rim some people say. This was an interesting read on that topic: http://www.dbtires.com/rimstress.html Of course, they are in the business of selling radials so they may be a little biased.

Yes. I guess I missed the photo earlier. Yes, it is the original 4 cylinder engine and it was split 14 and 23. I'm not sure of the firing order for the 4 cylinder Plymouths but I think 1-2-4-3 is fairly common for a 4 banger. So I guess a 14 and 23 split might made sense to have equal impulses on each split. It did sound good and ran along very well.

Nice photos! Looks like you missed getting shots of the 32 PB roadster with its custom dual intake and exhaust. But, on the other hand I think I only took about 3 photos total of the entire event, so I have no grounds to criticize.

For pickup trucks I think it is marketing. I had a 63 D200 "3/4 ton" pickup where if you subtracted the dry weight from the max weight you figured it could handle 3000 pounds of load. That truck did have the optional factory frame reinforcement which raised its capacity, but even so I had a hard time figuring out why they marketed a truck that could carry 1 1/2 tons as a 3/4 ton vehicle. That was back when pickups were sold to farmers, ranchers and the construction trade. Nowadays most pickup trucks are sold as vanity vehicles to suburbanites and they are built and marketed differently.

I guess official announcements should come from the people who had their cars judged or in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine, but if I recall the awards portion of the banquet a first place award in Group 2 to a 1941 coupe whose owner resides in California's "Central Valley".

If you type "POC forum" into Google you don't get it. At least not in the first three pages of results. At least that is my result as of this instant in time.

Yes. Trailered it as he has only driven it 25 miles yet and wasn't sure about taking a 250 mile round trip drive yet. Sorry to be. Brief but the touch screen on this cellphone is small.

Especially the misspelled ones. Well, I guess gage is a word so I shouldn't consider it misspelled. Just not what I would type when thinking about gauges.

And they never read the operator's manual for any car I've ever seen. For example, on the first page in the "Operation and Care" section of the 1933 De Luxe Plymouth Six Instruction Book, under "To Start Engine (Cold)" is says:

Maybe these people can help: http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/

I'm not sure if your post is a question or a statement. I've never had a condenser go bad but I would think there would be two failure modes: 1. Open circuit. In which case it would just act like there was no condenser there and your points would burn up faster. You would probably only find out about this condition when the points failed. So in addition to replacing the condenser you'd need to replace the points. 2. Short circuit. In which case you'd have to remove the condenser from the distributor in order to get any spark at all. So, in short, I don't see a failure mode that would be fixed on the road by simply adding another condenser to the outside of the distributor...

I noticed and wondered about that too... I guess the human intervention to design the moving and unseen parts was left out to make the video more impressive.

Noting part numbers for future use or use by others is, in my opinion, always a good thing.