TodFitch

Not real convenient, but you can do searches on my page that gives the NAPA numbers for various Mopar part numbers. I believe that the NAPA numbers are the same as the Lockheed/Wagner numbers. http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group5 And, of course, I don't have all numbers. But maybe the few I have will be a help.

I assume you've seen this recent post on the car side: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=30602 With a link in it to http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=658266 Sounds like any pre-78 Mopar V-8 could be a donor...

If I recall correctly, the non-bypass thermostat on my '33 Plymouth was the identical replacement part number for the one in the '63 D200 with a 318 V8 I once owned. I wouldn't be surprised if a generic Mopar thermostat housing for a much later engine would also fit on my '33 engine. Since it seems you don't have the bypass style thermostat I'm guessing that could be true for you too.

Not for US built Plymouths. If equipped with the optional passenger side wiper, it would be a separate vacuum wiper motor with separate control knob.

Does anyone have a P15 specific parts book? The 36-48 book I have lists one part for the front wheel cylinder service package but there are apparently two packages, one for the upper and one for the lower. My book has a hand written change that says "see card" but, of course, there is no card there. I am looking for the original Chrysler part numbers for the NAPA front wheel cylinder kits that TheSkycrane has so kindly posted. I was able to find Chrysler numbers for the rest...

Fun movie. Sure was less crowded back then. I try to keep track of things uploaded to archive.org but I missed this one.

Seems like maybe I need to set you up with an account on my parts database. . . I haven't been home to check the wheel cylinder kits in my parts book and I don't have them in the on-line database but everything else in your first post of this thread matched up to what I had. I'll check the rest when I have a chance later. http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric

Get Don C. to post the link I always forget to Chet's PDF scans of the 1936-48 Plymouth Parts Book. Price is right assuming you can afford the paper to print it.

The number at the DMV used to be 1-800-777-0133. When I was looking for YOM plates I found I could call that number to check to see if the numbers were "clear" and the plates could be used. Regarding the bicycling, it does show that more things are possible than I'd ever imagined.

Except '34 PE and PF had unequal A-arm independent front suspension. Not, "knee action" (Chevy trade name for its independent front suspension) but lever arm shocks were used up until "airplane style" (modern looking) shocks were introduced in 1937 for Plymouth. I think that Chrysler switched all of its car makes to the "airplane style" before other manufacturers. Don't know about trucks.

Lever arm shocks, running boards, imply mid-1930s or earlier. Six cylinder engine implies 1933 or later if Plymouth. However the frame front cross member does not match the '33 Plymouth DeLuxe (PD) and the illustrations of the '33 PC frame I've seen look more like the PD than this photo. I guess it could be a '34 PG or a '35 PJ but I don't know enough about what those frames look like to say. Here is a photo of a '33 PD frame, you can see the front cross member under the radiator does not angle forward like the un-identified one.

That is certainly the problem my car seems to have developed in the last couple of years when the weather is hot (higher than 95°F) and the car has been driven long and hard enough to be fully warmed up. A little drinking water poured on the fuel pump gets me going again. Maybe one of these days I'll fit one of those fuel pump heat shields that the came with after they built my car.

http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#676575

If I recall correctly, the '63 Plymouth wagon my family had when I was young had the pentastar on the front passenger fender.

Bearing in mind that about 90% of all carburetor issues are electrical, I'd check the choke.

Since I don't have a car equipped with that I don't recall the answer right off, but I do recall that it has been covered here before and so the search function should turn up an answer for you.

Mountains are looking pretty dry around here. There is even a brush fire in an area of the Sierra Nevada where there is usually a couple of feet of snow on the ground by now. My first ski weekend of the year was canceled due to lack of snow and unless there is a storm coming through pretty soon the next scheduled weekend will be pretty grim.

A fellow I know who was into racing flushed his brakes after every racing weekend. Apparently the racing crowd knows where to buy brake fluid with some dye added. So he had two pressure bleeders each with its own color of brake fluid and he alternated which bleeder he used. He said he flushed them until the fluid came out the color of the stuff in the bleeder. For us more everyday types, I think I'd just flush until the fluid comes out looking clean. On the other hand, I switched to DOT5 when I rebuilt everything and, as I understand it, periodic flushing is not required with that. It has been about 12 years since I did that and I've had no problems and the fluid still looks clean in the master cylinder.

The Schrader valves on the tires/tubes too.

Poking about in NAPA Online, 675955 does not cross. But searching for 156 turns up thousands of possibilities. Searching within that set for "muffler" returns a Soundmaster muffler with current part number SMU 17886. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SMU17886_0159496332 I wonder if that muffler is close enough to work....

Unfortunate that it happened and the fact that the car hit was an early '30s Chrysler product made it worse. But I was a bit confused by the video... The signal light was flashing red. Around here that means the signal is flashing red in all directions and you are to treat it as a four way stop. Unless, of course, there is a traffic officer directing traffic. Which did not appear to be the case. So how come none of the street rods were stopping before going through the intersection?

The only car I have left with an old fashioned lead-acid battery for starting is the '33 Plymouth with a 6 volt electrical. Last battery replacement on that was 2009, the one before that was 2002 (7 years). So I guess I was mistaken on my memory when I made the earlier post: I have gotten 7 years at least once. For the "daily drivers" in the household, my wife's 11 year old Prius is still on its original main batteries but the little auxiliary battery has been replaced at least once. My 8 year old Prius has had its main batteries replaced under warranty but the auxiliary battery is original. But those aren't lead-acid based and have different aging characteristics than the old fashioned lead-acid starting batteries.

I don't think I've ever gotten 7 years out of a starting battery, much less 7 years out of a factory one.

Maybe an impact wrench would work them loose...

I agree with Young Ed. Buy a new pump and be done with it. Here is the part number.NWP-713 Except that the person asking said they are in Holland. Might not have a CarQuest or NAPA store there. I don't know how the later pumps are, but in '33/'34 the pulley and hub are one and the same. The pulley/hub is pressed on to the end of the pump shaft and then a hole is drilled through the flange on the pulley and the shaft and a pin is pressed in then peened over. As was mentioned early in this thread, a photo of the pump you are working with could be useful. It could be that you've gotten an incorrect pump off of eBay.