TodFitch

The bushings should be line reamed from one to the other. The proper reamer will have a long shank and will have a matching tapered collar to align the cutting flutes with the other busing. Can't do that reaming them individually or by using a hone. Sounds like you were really lucky to end up with both bores on the same center line.

Old thread resurrected.... Yep they decreased the allowable amount of zinc in motor oil recently. It is now back to about the same level they increased it to in the mid-1950s to cover wear on the then new high performance OHV V8 engines. Current oil still has more zinc in it than oil did when your L-6 engine Plymouth was new and a lot more than it did when that engine was designed in the early 1930s. Get the ZDDP for your oil. And get the diamonds for your dog's collar too. Both will make you feel good. But neither Plymouth nor your dog will be better off.

Sounds like the system used on the '63 D200 I once had: A bimetallic device with about a 50% duty cycle provided approximately 6v for the temperature and fuel gauges. For the '63 it was located inside one of the two gauges but I can't recall which at the moment. If that goes out then both gauges stop working. If either gauge is working then it is probably okay. I did have a problem with it once but a little cleaning fixed it for the remaining time that I had the truck (several years).

Not sure if group 1 or group 2, but my "local better auto supply" typically has at least one in stock. Probably cheaper at a place like Tractor Supply, but I like to send whatever business I can to the local store to help keep them around.

And I know what web site you pulled it from. Or at least the web site that it was pulled from to put it on what ever site you found it at. Looks like I have to fix a typo on the HTML entity on the caption for that...

What does it look like (photos)? Does he have the mounting hardware? Is it for sale?

Getting paint all over the fresh concrete? I guess that's one way to break in the new work area. If I ever create a garage/shop space from scratch I am going to try to remember to seal the concrete with epoxy or some other product. That will make it easy to clean and keep looking good. Main issue would be getting too eager to use the area and get paint or grease into the pores of the concrete.

Yep. If they aren't restricted by the choke plate, throttle plate, manifolds, valves and exhaust system then a four stroke Otto cycle engine will be trying to draw 1/2 half of its displacement every rotation of the crank. A 218 cu.in. engine will try to draw 109 cu. in. per rev and you are turning over at least 500 rpm at idle (seems like people are used to higher idle speeds now, so make that 750 rpm). So 750 x 109 = 81750 cu. in./min or about 47 cu. ft./min. Thats on the intake side. The exhaust side carries more because of the expansion of the burned mixture. That's the reason that people spend so much time on things that will make the flow better: Dual carburetors, split exhaust, headers, porting and polishing, etc.

Agree with that. Also a narrow flat blade screw driver can be tapped at the base of the key to move it back and sometimes that will get the key to start coming up.

Yes. And that was one of the things that surprised people back in the 1920s when four wheel brakes were introduced. It turns out that a panic stop with only two wheel rear brakes causes the car to spin around. Having most of the braking up front fixes that. Counter intuitive and the manufacturers who were early with four wheel brakes had to convince people that it was true. Took a number of years for that message to get through.

If you could manage to keep the car and move it to the Bay Area I'm sure it would be welcome on our local tours and events.

Being a bit of an outdoors type, I'd second the previous poster's comments about Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. The new bridge over the Colorado River at Hoover/Boulder Dam is supposed to be quite an impressive sight. Sounds like you'd be getting into San Francisco early to mid November. Don't know if it is closed then or perhaps limited to weekends only, but the boardwalk and rides on the beach in Santa Cruz might be of interest. Oh, and by the way, don't call it "Frisco" to anyone who lives in the San Francisco area, especially not to ones who live in "The City". (Not to be confused with "The City" referred to by those in the NYC area.)

Temperature ratings should set the actuating temperatures for both and the cylinder head outlet and housing bolt pattern are the same for both. The external bypass type allows flow in two positions: When cold it sends the coolant to the pump via the bypass. When hot it changes to allow flow to the radiator. The external bypass type is taller to handle the two outlets from the housing. The other type is basically just a on/off valve that sends coolant to the radiator when hot. Since it does not work as a diverter it does not need to cover two outlets and can be shorter.

My technique the couple of times I've had to do this is to put the float into boiling water and hold it down. Any gas in the float will evaporate and bubble out (don't do this over a gas range!). So you've done two things: Seen where the leaks are and gotten all the gas out. Now use a soldering iron and seal the holes. Don't use a torch as that would be way too much heat and have an open flame near something that once had gas it it. Pretty easy.

P12 has external bypass while P11 does not.

External bypass was introduced in 1934. I can get you a scan of a photocopy of the factory service manual if you like. For much of the 1930s after that, and maybe into the '40s, the DeLuxe models had it while the standard/business/Roadking models did not. Interestingly, near as I can tell from the parts book, they used the same block, head and water pump. Which implies that some sort of internal bypass was possible if not fitted with the external bypass. On my '33, which differs in several details from the later engines, there is no bump on the head and the bypass is entirely in the block. I think that is the way the 201 engines worked too if not fitted with an external bypass system. I am guessing that the external bypass did a better job because the water in the head, not just the block, was circulating before the thermostat opened to allow flow to the radiator. Maybe the bump on the '50s head with internal bypass was to allow flow in the head too which got around the need for the fancy thermostat and external plumbing. Would make sense as a manufacturing cost savings change.

The water pump part number is the same for P11 and P12 but the bypass elbow is listed as "not used" on the P11. Different thermostat numbers. So I think 41coupe has it right. I would have thought that the non-bypass type thermostat housing would have been similar to the cast iron one on my '33 but the parts book I have doesn't seem to show an image of a non-bypass housing.

Concur with others about the possibility of a head gasket being blown and that the fix is pretty simple. Regarding going 60 with two dead cylinders: When I got my '33 the seller said it ran good but had a rough idle. When I finally got around to checking compression a couple of thousand miles later, many at the then maximum legal speed of 55, I found I had three cylinders with zero compression and three with 40 to 60 pounds compression. Burned valves on the three and worn rings on all. Other than rough idle and being hard to start it ran just fine. These engines are tough beasts and can soldier on with major defects.

No current supplier for the rubber mat in the front of my '33 but their might be for a '39. If there is it will probably be from a small supplier advertising in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine. Not a duplicate of original but you can get rubber matting and cut it to size. Probably easier to do that than to have carpet fitted. And if you are getting the car judged by the POC, you'll have fewer points deducted.

At least they are on my car. I think they were double flare before I replaced them too.

On the earlier vehicles the cover gasket is paper (Same gasket on Plymouth from the late 1930 four cylinder engine through the 1942 218 cu. in. 6). Looks like they changed things up in 1946 so I don't know if your 218 has paper or O-ring. And on the car side for P15 they list two different cover gaskets based on engine number even though they only list one body and one cover. The two number are 863724 (early) and 1124984 (late). Unfortunately I don't have a cross reference for those. I don't see a listing for just that gasket from the vendors I normally check either. Sorry but I did try...

I'm pretty sure that the '63 Belvedere Suburban we had when I was growing up had rubber floor mats... But by then maybe it was an option thing and my father, being practical, ordered it without carpet. I know he ordered it without power steering or power brakes, only real options on it were the factory AC and a radio. As of twenty or so years ago it was still possible to order a car with rubber mats. When I got my '91 Jeep Cherokee I also got it with rubber mats rather than carpet: A lot more practical for a vehicle that you're going to be getting into with mud or snow covered boots. Don't know if that is still true or not.

Just tried playing the first video that comes up on that link and got "This video contains content from EMI, who has blocked it in your country on copyright grounds."

Fuel outlet on my '33s tank is NPT. I understand that in the '46-'48 time frame they used a flare tube with a ferrule. You are in the middle year wise so it is a toss up as to what they may have done.