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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. I've got the motor mount I think is right for a p15
  2. If stock you would turn the key on, give it a couple pumps of fuel, pull the choke, and then press the starter lever above the gas pedal. With that said being this old some of that could have changed depending on what people have done with it
  3. Welcome to the site. First you're on the car side. While the starting part is basically the same as a car you'll do better putting truck stuff on the truck part of the forum. Now are you saying you are trying to start it and it won't? Or looking for how to revive it safely and attempt to start it?
  4. We do need some clarification on this. To me the bushings go in the spindle and the upright(what the kingpin attaches the spindle to) is what gets dropped on these cars. My uprights were worn on my 48 and I got used ones to replace them.
  5. I remember you finding a set but not why I didn't get them
  6. One of my to-do items is figure out how to fix the parking brake on Dad's old 55 Chrysler. His is the New Yorker deluxe with the 332 hemi!
  7. If it's an automatic make sure the parking brake works. They don't have park in the transmission. Beyond that it's the usual rockers quarters etc for rust. Also which v8? The hemi would be expensive to rebuild if it's not a runner.
  8. Wow 41 with the California low headlights. I'm still hunting for a set of those lower stainless bars.
  9. You should be able to fit a tumbler and key set to your existing switch pretty easily
  10. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173002793410?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JXn8xyoHQqK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY This is the heater style but it would work. A call into them might find out they have the other style too. And it's cheaper to not order via ebay
  11. Mine was from Napa but that was probably 15 years ago.
  12. I would suggest starting your own thread over on the truck side. And I agree with the last reply. Get it running on a gas can before diving into tank replacement
  13. Get yourself a HD generic choke cable to use for a hood release cable. Mine has a chrome T handle and works well.
  14. Have you checked vintage jeep places or vintage power wagons?
  15. I've been running rotella 10w40 or 15w40 in mine for a few years now.
  16. Not sure if that data plate tells it for sure but I would guess 87 HP means 218. To be sure pull the plus over the #6 cylinder and use a stiff piece of wire to measure the stroke.
  17. I was watching YouTube I think Vicegrip garage and they called the manufacturer of the stop leak. They aren't designed for our old none pressure systems.
  18. Looks like there might be 2 of them
  19. If you go to bernbaum directly they are only $27. I'm sure they are marked up to cover the eBay fees
  20. Not cheap but the pads are available. I'm sure a quick call to bernbaum would get you fitment info https://www.ebay.com/itm/174057206733?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JXn8xyoHQqK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jPrPlFMQQw2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  21. It doesn't do either. It holds a set screw that you access from the door edge. Very hard to get apart. Also you should post on the truck side - you'll get a better chance of a reply.
  22. I do agree with some of your points. Metal repair and body work are the most expensive parts especially if you can't DIY. Buy the best truck you can afford. Hopefully they'll make it run and you can strike a deal. If they can't find the key or it won't start use that as a negotiation point
  23. Yes the truck parts are going to be harder to find than the Chevy but that doesn't mean they're impossible. That would include sheet metal and mechanical stuff.
  24. I hope I don't have the same one you had! Mine is an eBay special
  25. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one like that. My 48s valves were set by the machine shop almost 30k miles ago and haven't been touched since. These posts usually make me wonder if I should actually check them...
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