Alshere59
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Everything posted by Alshere59
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/537078655441955/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
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My Grandfathers work truck.
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/527450076508783/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A17180c4a-0188-438f-832d-7bfaf803f0c1 Not mine just for those that my be interested.
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1751238368640031/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
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Thank you for those the offered advice. I checked floats level, condition etc. Not that. I poured gas in the float bowl and it just runs out underneath. So I assume I botched the rebuild. So tear them apart I guess and see if I can see what I messed up. Update found the problem. I guess I forgot to install the rivet plugs in the main vent. I noticed it as soon as I pulled the carbs.
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So my car has been sitting a few years. I went to start it and both carbs BB D6H2 leak badly. I will be checking the floats to make sure they are not stuck/level etc. but is there anything else that would cause this I need to look at? It has not been started in a few years and I rebuilt the carbs a while back but just got around to putting them back on the car. It fired up after a couple of cranks but pored fuel out of the hole below the float.
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I have an Ender 5 plus so objects are limited to 350X350X400mm for prints at least one piece prints. The scanner is fairly basic he3d I set it up on a tripod and have a home built turn table controlled via stepper motor. Still working on tuning that. Smaller items like a knob I would probably make a mold from the part in all honesty.
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Yep early to mid 70's part time. Mostly doing snow tires. Back then it was very busy when the first snow was forecasted. Did a lot of full service. Pump the gas, clean the windows and check the oil and tire pressure. Did every car back then. Boss was outstanding and thought service was very important sad that is not the case today. I guess front wheel drive did away with the snow tires for the most part.
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Has anyone considered 3d printing parts? I was thinking maybe a hood ornament then cast into aluminum, brass etc? You can also do knobs etc but looking at what can be done. I have the printer and a 3d scanner just curious about what others thought..
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BK it will be a search for the right shock. When you relocate the length will be different for everyone since you mount the new top mount where ever. So th resting, travel and over all length will vary. try here,http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf . Harley this explains it. It helps with the ride and handling.
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This help? http://p15-d24.com/search/?&q=master cylinder bracket&sortby=relevancy
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I had thought only the Edmunds were water heated unless you added a plate where the heat riser was... Post a picture if you can..
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Rockwood have you ever run a gps and compare it to your speedometer reading? That may help but you never know.
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So the 1" phenolic washers were only for heat? Also why the balance tube on the stock set? I have fenton dual carb intake and have seen it mentioned to run the same 1 inch spacers but I had thought it was for low speed torque. Now i need to find that discussion again..
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WESTACH has them listed just go to the single gauge menu. As mentioned before give them a call to see iy they have what you need. Model: 3CT53-2-6V Price: $143.65 Tachometer 5,000 RPM, 3" round, std pt or mag ign, 1-1/2 & 3 imp, ( 3 or 6 cyl ) 6 volt positive/negative ground. Model: 2CT33-6V Price: $124.65 Tachometer 3,500 RPM, 2" round, std pt ign, 3 imp/rev ( 6 cyl ), 6 volt, pos or neg grd Your second question you can decide after reading this. There are other threads as well just search the forums. Al
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You might want to consider using electrolysis. Just reverse the leads and it will eat the metal rim away from the glass. I cracked a lense prying it out when I converted mine, but the next one I just lifted the metal off. I just had it deep enough to cover the edge holding the glass. http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp
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Don't forget to add relays to the light circuit as it will pull more amps with the new bulbs. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgb/headlight_relays_revb.pdf
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Knuckle I agree all things like engine temp etc is the same you get heat. Just looking at ducts etc for the different models to see how well they work is all.
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I have no idea if the duct is the same. What model number is on the heater? Care to share a picture of the under seat heater and does it have a model number?
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I have seen that parts were cardboard. Is this the only part? I had looked at that already and was wondering if a template was available I have a friend that should be able to do in sheet metal. A bit of insulation added I think. Interesting thank you for posting.
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So I am starting to work on my old Plymouth again.Looking over the manuals I see a number of heaters were an option. So since I have none, I was wondering do they work well? Looking at defrost and heat. Looking at keeping it 6 volts so.... Reading the old posts I see recommendations for an Arvin etc.. but if original work why not as I see a model 70 etc available.So what are the thoughts of the forum? Just looking at heat and especially defrosters. good? bad?. Looking at temps probably high teens F. Any models that stand out.?
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Andy Bernbaum has them here. http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-universal-joint.aspx
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