Doug&Deb

I always re-check after a few heat cycles.

This may should dumb but should the choke be turned around? Something doesn’t look right. Is that the choke that was on your engine ? There were 2 different assemblies. 49-52 Plymouth and Dodge used a choke that mounted ahead of the carb. It’s much harder to find.

YNZ Wiring was who I used. Rhode Island Wiring is another source. You need the Gyromatic harness. I believe it’s around $225.00. Installation is simple with the instructions they provide. I also recommend going to the Imperial club website. They have troubleshooting manuals available for download. I know from my experience how much trouble bad wiring can cause. I’ll be glad to help with any questions you have.

I’m assuming you have the Gyromatic trans. It will upshift with no wiring connected but not downshift. So yes it can be driven just remember to disengage the clutch when stopping. I bought a trans harness from YNZ Wiring for my 52 Coronet and I’m very happy with it. Their customer support is good also. I’m not sure which resistor you’re referring to. There’s a circuit breaker in the square block mounted to the air cleaner brace.

Are you talking about the rod from the choke assembly to the carb? There’s a set screw on the choke that adjusts the position of the rod. The service manual specifies how it’s done. If you don’t have the tool to lock the rod in place a drill bit will work.

Thanks everyone. I’ll check for leaks first then try hooking up a gauge to check pressure.

Good idea on the gauge. I’m not able to drive it as much as I’d like. The deer are in rut and I have no desire to hit one. I assume you plumb the gauge between the mechanical pump and the carb?

I’m trying to determine whether my fuel pump is going bad or if heat is the problem. When going up hill at temperature my Coronet sometimes acts like it’s not getting fuel. Kicking on the electric pump cures the problem. This only happens when the temperature gauge shows 200 degrees. The mechanical pump is 2 years old and the pin isn’t coming out. There are no leaks that I see. Any thoughts?

Nice looking truck. I find it odd that auto makers updated their post war trucks a year earlier than the cars.

That last picture could have been an ad back in the day. Beautiful car and beautiful scenery.

That housing is available from Bernbaums reasonably priced.

102 horsepower and 186 lb./ft. if torque

With all the threads concerning overdrive I seem to recall Chrysler offering overdrive behind the semi auto trans in 41-42. I’m wondering if anyone has fitted overdrive behind the post war M6 trans. That would be a versatile setup but probably complicated.

The inner fender has a removable panel that allows access to the valves. Be sure to wear heavy gloves to protect your hands from the heat.

I would put .014 clearance on both cold. This will allow the engine to run until fully warmed up . Then adjust the valves according to the service manual.

Scarebird. I’m very happy with it.

Looks good. I like the pinstripe idea. My D24 had a double pinstripe on the wheels even though the trim ring covered it.

Disc brakes yes, overdrive no. I have the M6 trans so I keep my speed down. I daily drive mine until they start salting the roads.

Nine hours of mountain driving in the Coronet. If that didn’t kill it nothing will lol. Aside from a disc brake conversion it’s as engineered by Mopar. I drive it most of the year but my wife is the one to convince me to take longer trips. I’m pleased and pleasantly surprised by how well it works.

Awesome! Beautiful cars and a beautiful day.

I recommend starting from scratch. Remove the plugs and wires. With the plugs out you can turn the engine by hand using the fan. Place a finger on the front spark plug hole until the compression pushes it off. At that point the timing mark should line up with the pointer. Remove the cap and the rotor should be at the 7 o’clock position. I normally remove the distributor at this point when replacing points. It’s much easier to work on and adjust the gap. Replace the distributor and plugs. The firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Make sure all the wires are seated properly on both ends. This should get you running again. After the engine has fully warmed up check the timing with a timing light and fine tune the adjustment if needed. If you don’t have a service manual I highly recommend one. If not someone here will have the data you need. Good luck.

For any of you in the vicinity of southwest Pennsylvania I’d like to give a shout out to P&M Auto Electric in Centerville. They’ve been in business for years and are very experienced with 6 volt components. I just had a starter rebuilt and new battery cables made. I highly recommend them and no I have no connection to the company, just a satisfied customer.

There are 13 nuts holding the manifold on. One is a little difficult to access. If you can get into the engine compartment it should be possible.

Originally there was a cork seal. I replaced mine with a rubber o-ring. Just measure the distributor shaft and the counterbore in the block and find the correct size o-ring.

I’m rebuilding my spare engine so I’ll wait until it’s ready to try the dash gauge. I know how easy it is to break the probe so once is enough. Until then as long as it’s not boiling then I’m driving it. The temperature stays pretty consistently in the same range so it’s okay.