D35 Torpedo

In my experience, more gap is better. But in this case that was suspect. So I just played it safe. I know what to expect from the synchros I was already using.

Koyo 6207N is a direct replacement. I left my book in the shop and there is no way I'm going back out there tonight. It's been a long long day, it's back together except for the rear seal. I cleaned and inspected everything. Used the best parts from both transmissions. The spare trans was rebuild with koyo bearings. The synchros looked like a slightly different bronze. And, while they engaged the cone sooner, they just didn't bite well enough, so I just used mine. The counter shafts were different lengths, with different thrust washers. They all had bits of steel inbedded in the bronze. I used an olfa blade to dig them out, then I turned them around. I resealed the speedo drive and shift levers. Reused the gaskets with the right stuff. I stand to have a better product with less oil spots when I'm done...bonus.

None of the suppliers use the oem part numbers anymore. I have the parts list book. I know rock auto lists them. Either way unless these are terrible, it isn't getting new ones. I did order a new rear seal and speedy sleeve. But I was so busy doing a converible top, that I forgot to get it before the supplier closed.

You wouldn't happen to have the bearing part numbers handy, would you?

All the bearings are tight in there bores. There is no signs of spun bearings. Maybe ill sandblast the case today and look it over. Aside from the damage, everything looks really good. Like maybe it was rebuilt at some point. The synchros don't have any signs of wear on the teeth. I just hope the spare is this good. It actually feels better. So I'm saying there's a chance.

So not "rare". I was just looking at a schematic of the long tailshaft transmission and I was thinking that the stubby probably wasn't as strong. The book I have doesn't show a blow up of the shorty. I do see some discrepancies in the diagram and what I have. One being a spring behind the synchro, mine has it and the book doesn't. Another being thrust bearings on either side of the counter shaft, mine has thrust bushings. It's interesting how the main shaft ball bearings are captured to provide thrust support. There is no thrust bearing beside the pocket bearing, and there is no shimming or preload.

This was the one in the car. I blew it apart on the healing bench. It looks like it had water in it at some point. First/reverse gear on the output shaft is pitted pretty good. Explains why it whined in first. The ball bearings don't look to bad but they feel a little off. The countershaft thrust washers have a lot of metal inbedded in them. Syncros look new. Rear seal looks monkey'd on. Looks like I will save the casing, but swap most of the guts. The main things are the case and output shaft, they are good. We will see what the donor looks like tomorrow. The plan is to get this done with no new parts. Fingers crossed. A guy told me my stubby trans is a rare bird. Can anyone elaborate?

Man it's nice and complete, clock and all.

Carnage

That's good to know. Thanks

The car made it home just fine. Leaving in 2nd sucks. Thanks for the help and concerns. I'll keep you guys posted.

I have a spare. However the tail shaft looks to be longer. I will need to make one from two. There goes my weekend.

I usually shift into second, then back to first. This way it doesn't grind. Well every once in a while it doesn't go into first. The dogs done line up. So while holding it into first ill slowly let the clutch out and it will drop in. Well this happened. But it didn't go smoothly.

No second and third are normal

It goes into first fine. It just makes a bad noise, like the gear is missing a tooth. I can still drive it to get home today. But it's hooped.

She popped out of first, taking off at a light. Transmission is rattling in first.

But Doc, I can't drive 55. I'll need to add structure to mine. It isnt very beefy. Pics will come soon. I'll make a separate thread.

I took mine apart to get it working. That was a while ago now. I used fluid film to lubricate it.

If you pull the door panel, you can adjust the door. You can also adjust the striker

Linseed oil on its own attracts dirt. Check out the Landshark line. It is more permanent.

Clear coat requires prep to adhear. It doesn't actually stick to rust or old paint that well. His newest product is self bonding, and is designed for a patina finish. I have no experience with it. This is just what I've gathered.

If you pop the top of the carb off after running. There should be residual pressure behind the float needle. Push the float down and you will get a burst of fuel. If that doesn't happen, a small leak is present. But I suspect your problem will be in the dizzy. Good luck.

I'm not usually a visor fan. But these cars have tall windshields. Adding a visor almost gives it a chopped look without cutting a thing. I picked up a visor recently, and have finished straightening and fitting it. So it will be in paint soon. I'm tall, since I reupholstered my seat I sit much higher. Lights are an issue as is. My solution will be to readdress my seat. I want to move the whole bench back and lower the bottom. It will be worth it. My other concern is in the strength of the visor. It is a five piece unit made of sheet metal. The "wings" don't have a lot of support. I hope it can do 70 mph.

I was going to mention VGG. He has spent a lot of time formulating coatings. His new product is better than clear coat, from what I hear.