D35 Torpedo

The spool gear has two teeth. I put a full kit in my box. So I explained exactly what I saw. What I saw doesn't match your logic. No offence, but feel like if you read my posts, you wouldn't be explaining it to me like I'm a kid. It loosens up as it moves from center. All the wear is on the spool gear and pin. Like a said, generally speaking, you're correct. However, in this case things are different. You might say my case is a special one. But my box is the same as all the rest. Therefore suffering from the same design flaws. It's just a matter of how far gone it is. Not trying to argue. Just seems like my points are not getting across.✌️

I don't understand how a worn worm would cause binding, only play. The wear on the worm and roller is minuscule compared to that of the roller and pin. These are slow moving parts. Even without oil, they can go without wear for a very long time. The roller and pin get hammered out from road impacts like potholes. Once the roller has slop, the sector can freely move. In the center, both gears are square to each others. The roller is loaded evenly against the pin. At this point only end play can be exploited. But at either end the roller isn't loaded evenly. It has less tooth engagement and forces are vectored. Now end play has a greater effect and pin slop is now a factor. Hence, greater play off of center. There is zero adjustment to be made on the worm. Just shim the bearings to zero lash. All the adjustment is in the sector screw. The same forces that hammer the roller and pin take out the bearings over time. Anyway, that's my full analysis based on my findings and experience.

And here I thought I could replace them in an afternoon. Sounds like i will need to buy a reamer.

Usually I would agree with Loren about the wear being mostly in the middle, and therefore when adjusted, be to tight on the periphery. Because that's how it is for a modern recirulating ball steering box. However, I found that to not be the case with my steering box. The further I got from center, the more play there was.

Since you just rebuilt it, I'm sure you know how it works. And ill assume you shimmed the worm gear bearings snug. Turning the adjuster in, lifts the sector to mesh the gears tighter. ( if i remember correctly) It's best to lift the front wheels off the ground so you can feel how tight it is. The play will be in the sector. The round gear gets end play and general slop on the pin. All you can do is tighten it up as much as is bearable, then live with it. Sectors are available and are expensive. Don't worry thought, there isn't much that can catastrophically fail.

I'm want to assume the tube is good. The engine was rebuilt and only has 160 miles on it. Ill pop the cap off and see if i have good flow. I would think so because the heater core works well. I didnt think it would overheat without a stat. I think i will need to pull my rad and have it cleaned. While its out i will pull the water pump and take a look around.

So I've been avoiding the elephant in the room. But with warmer weather coming, I can't avoid it much longer. I'm finding that the engine temp goes up and down as it pleases. When left to idle long enough, it really starts to creep up there. If I turn on the heater blower, it will pull the temp down. I suspect, by the way it acts, that there is no thermostat installed. But, why would it overheat? I've heard the argument that a stat slows the flow down to give the rad a chance to cool it. Not sure if that idea holds any water! It seems the rad needs a fan shroud or maybe I need to send it out to get cleaned. Thoughts?

No. Having those items removed from the circuit is like having them turned off. It shouldn't affect the ammeter. Its job is to measure the difference in current between the gen and bat. The regulator is load sensitive. So it might help to have a load to verify its output above what the battery takes in.

They had to have a "real car" in there add.

It's more than likely the sector shaft not the worm. Hey David. Car must be a blast street light to street light. Welcome

I'd price it all out. You need a disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and pressure plate. You also need to get the flywheel resurfaced. You might be able to save money by having the pressure plate resurfaced instead of replaced. But, have it checked out to ensure it hasn't gone soft. Before you do all that, check your linkage to make sure it's fully engaging and not hanging up.

I could be wrong. Try to run up the speedo on the bench. That way you eliminate the cable all together.

Three in one oil

It's almost definitely your cable making the noise. There isn't much in the speedo that can do that. But, since you have it out put a drop of oil on the shaft bushing. You can also lube the odometer gears. Flooding it is not going to help. Test it with a drill before you reinstall it to verify that it's working smoothly.

A guy could rig up a grease gun to force oil. But be careful, a grease gun can create thousands of psi. Just put a grease nipple on a galley plug and stuff it in. Use a grease gun with an emply tube in it. Fill it up with oil and give it a try. Let me know how it goes haha.

I'm going to guess radio and gauges

I just found a lever arm and screwed it on. Then bent the linkage as needed. It's better than nothing.

I got my last set of points and condenser from napa.

This is what I have

Ok, ya i dont have that linkage. Thanks!

Now that is my kind of solution. Well done!

So my car has a Carter E7T2 with scission. I rebuilt it and it seems to work good enough. But it was missing some linkage. I put a lever arm on the choke to use the scission as intended and it works fine. Thing is there is no fast idle linkage like a modern carb. I have to use a stick to jam the pedal down a bit while i let it warm up. What was used to raise the cold engine speed on these cars?

I had a problem with my generator. It wasnt charging well and then not at all. Turned out the brushes were simply sticking in the holders. Sanded them down smaller, cleaned the com and it's perfect. Anyone can slap on modern equipment, keeping the original 6 volt system is cooler.

The other option is to remove the opposite side glass( the one that isnt broken) and template it. A local glass shop can use the template to make a new window. You can have them make it in laminate or plate. Laminate will be cheaper. Plate will have to be sent out for tempering.