D35 Torpedo

Andy has hub cap clips.

If I was sitting on a ton of old cars, I'd do the same. It's awesome how it's smoking out of every orifice. The block is in pieces and it's still going.

What did they come in?

You will probably hear lucifer.

I'm bringing this thread back because I'm researching axles. My 50 dodge has 373s and a driveshaft with universals. The 52 plymouth has what I believe is 39x and an 11 bolt pumpkin with a trunnion driveshaft. I wasn't able to find stampings like the samples found online. Below the plug it says 039 8760. They look almost cast in, not stamped. Anyways, in order to run universals, are the flanges different? What models have the parts? Any other info to add would be appreciated.

I like the westach. They obviously ranged it properly for our cars. Unlike the other ones on ebay that look like modified 12volt units....that rev to 8000....

There is a station here that plays comedy. And another that plays sports. I think there is also an old school station that plays theatre. I took the radio to work today. Pulled it apart and cleaned as much out with compressed air as possible. Used contact cleaner with silicone to clean and lubricate any sliding contacts like potentiometers. Used fluid film to lube bushings. It looks good and feels good. Time to cap it and fire it up. I'm not concerned about the vibrator until I cross that bridge. I'll experiment on the bad radio first. I can only really spot maybe six caps. And I don't recognize the markings. The lack of standardization back then made for funny markings. I'm going to compare the two radios. One is a 803 and the other 807. The 807 has a nicer schematic inside.

I'll check it out. A lot of the writing on the components has turned to dust. And there is a good layer of dirt stuck to everything. The wiring diagram inside is in rough shape. Some of it is unreadable. Mine says PD4908 Mopar 803.

There is something about a working original that is pretty special. I usually drive without a stereo anyways. I'd rather listen to the engine. I might stick a modern stereo in it eventually, but it will be stand alone and hidden. I suppose I'd need two 6 volt bats hooked up to charge in parallel, and discharge in series to feel the stereo 12 volts.

Welp, made that purchase...should've order rear spring and shackle bushings as well. Maybe Napa with have something.

My original is fried. I picked this one up on craigslist. I want to go through it before I power it up. The guy I got it from said it worked when it was pulled in the 60s. Yes, he's been holding onto it for that long.

I'm pretty sure, back in day, when people went eight volt, they just turned up the regulator and ran an eight volt battery. Atleast, that's what an old timer friend of mine said to do.

I'd like to crack into my radio and give it a refresh. It's a Philco 4908. Is anyone aware of available cap kits or do I have to make one? Are there any guru's in the Fraser Valley of British Columbia? I am a competant parts changer but lack the knowledge and equipment to test components. The radio worked when pulled in 1967!

If the trunk lid isnt upholstered, you could take the back seat out, then reach in with a ratchet and a bunch of extension, and unbolt the latch handle.

It's blocked off. I lost my ignition key. It took an hour but I picked it. Was my first time and I'm glad I did, because I found the key.

Funny that both these parts came out of the same car. One side is nice black paint and the other side is rusty. The drum, backing plate and LCA is the same.

A bend like this andyd? I think between both cars I have one good set. I have the king pin kit already. I'm leaning towards a full kit, just for piece of mind, one and done.

Here

Hey just checking in now. Pics will have to wait till tomorrow now. I have a Canadian Dodge with a 25" engine. I think it's a 218.. but it shouldn't matter.

So, I pulled the front suspension out of the 52 today. I'm thinking about rebuilding it to swap into the 50, to prevent down time. The 52 also has slightly different lower control arms. The spring pocket sits lower. And the springs look heavier. I was looking online and found Andys kit at a reasonable price. Then I found another kit at a terrible price. Who has used Andys kit and can give info on its fitment and durability? Because everything pivotes on bolts, the materials need to be top notch. One other thing I noticed is that one of the suspension uprights appears to be bent. Ill take a pic tomorrow.

I can take some pics of my engine bay tomorrow if you like.

It's the factory breaker that mounts on the back side of the gauges. It protects the lights. I fused everything else.

One size fits all

Usually you can't install them backwards. Just because of physical constraints. If you somehow did, and there is enough room to do so, it wouldn't change how the clutch opperates. I think you have a linkage issue. Glad you sorted whatever it was out. Edit: In your vid, you shifted it without it grinding, so it's fine. Putting the clutch in while it's in gear will still spin the driveshaft because there is some frictional drag. The pilot bushing for instance. The wheels are free spinning so it's hard to tell. Can you shift into first?