plyroadking

So i have decided to try a set out on the '40, i looked on ebay and i can get a pair of moog cc850 coil springs for anywhere from $50 to $220, anyone have an idea where there is such a wide range of prices for the same spring that is made by the same company?

Looks to me like the spring cover off the u joint. It is supposed to be attached to the end of the driveshaft. Should be one on both ends, i assume you can just pry it out of the flange to access the castle nut

I doubt it as the 36 trans top cover/tower extends over the bell housing and '52 bolts up flush

Here's one in the bay area that has been on cl for quite awhile http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3828634895.html

It lowered the car and rode on the bump stops? And then they cut 1.5 coils off? Wouldn't that lower it even more? My '40 Ply has tired coils and im very interested in learning about returning to the stock height

About a month after i rebuilt the engine in the '40 it started idling rough, I knew it was a vacuum leak as pulling the choke smoothed it out. A week ago i was trying the brake clean vacuum leak test and discovered that the throttle shaft was very worn and air was being pulled in around it. I dug through my spare carburetor collection and discovered all of them were loose except for one with a steel shaft as opposed to the brass shafts. I switched it out and now the car idles great. Has anyone else encountered this? Is there a way to sleeve the carburetor base? Or are we stuck looking through collections to find less worn shafts?

The dodge looks good! I met a 2008 honda a year ago, he really liked my front fender and bumper. I got a $200 check to fix the scratch and his car was totaled.....

Speedometer cable? I didnt see a relay on the firewall, but could be one on the sparkplug wire fixture

I've ran mine for 8 years without a functional valve in my daily driver. its important to make sure that the butterfly valve inside is in the open position.

I can loan you a good one to make the trip, I have several spares

I'd hate to steer you wrong, but I didn't notice any 51/52 mopar parts while I was there.

The owner was talking about that actually, he has had a lot of people asking if he will greyhound parts but they closed the station that was near him and the closest one is 31 miles away and he said he doesn't have the time to ship parts. There is a guy in New York that offered him a ton of money for a set of fenders off of a early chrysler but he didn't want yo bother with them and sold them Friday for $15. Where are you located? I might be making the trip again in a couple weeks.

Headed east this weekend and plundered a barn in marengo IL. The owner has been selling stuff off for four years and most of the common stuff has been bought up, however I noticed half a dozen trunk lids for 42-48 plymouth Dodge, and Chryslers in almost nos condition. Also had nos 42 plymouth front fenders, a nos 41 ply pass rear fender, several late `40s Chrysler front fenders, and about two dozen early 30s dodge, chrysler, desoto sidemount front fenders. There is one pair of 28-29 ply standard front fenders and a pair of 31 standard fronts. Also has some odd ball stuff like Cadillac tourer rear fenders, pontiac, packard, nash and huppmobile fenders. They owner is very reasonable with his prices. I bought a set of '31 ply dual sidemount front fenders, a nos pair of '30 fronts, and the one im most excited about, a 1930 plymouth drivers side front sidemount with hardware that will be going on my 30 eventually.

I'm interested in getting one, mines still in good shape but can't hurt to get a spare at a reasonable price.

Studebaker overdrives had a big snap ring that had to be released before the drum/output shaft came out. It is accessible by removing a tiny cover plate on the overdrive case. Chevy might have something like it.

That's interesting, I have not heard that one yet... I was surprised to find wheel seals from a '60s Mercedes work perfectly as front wheel seals on my '40 Plymouth.

Od output seal: national 8160s skf15620

I've been following your story and had a feeling this is what you would find, i bought one a year ago that the same issue. I bought a ford r10 overdrive transmission and swapped the overdrive internals. The planetary, ring, and sprag clutch are the same. I usually pay around $50 for one and sometimes the solenoid and governor are an extra bonus. If you are having a hard time finding any I have a stack of good used parts. Mine had a crack in the case too and I had a machine shop drill and weld it, its held up with no problems in my daily driver.

I don't know about your '40 but mine did not have a factory relay for the headlights. I did add one when i did the bullseye/halogen conversion

I bolted in a' 55 3.73 3rd member to my' 40 Plymouth original rear end housing . Only problem I had was that the' 55 axle shafts were too short the reach in and engage the 3rd member. The 1940 shafts slid in and fit perfectly. Only noticeable difference is the faster speeds and the dual fill plugs....

Fluid level is critical, I bought a trans from a guy that said it whined a little but probably just had a worn bearing.....

I'd check two things after the fluid, first would be to check that the four bolts that connect the drive shaft to the parking brake drum are tight, the bolts are pressed into the trans output flange and brake drum, I have had them not seated/pressed in fully and the brake drum can rattle around and create noises. I would recommend dropping the drive shaft and seeing if you can wobble the drum any. the second thing that i would check would be the tightness of the large nut that holds the rear flange/brake drum assembly to the splined output shaft of the overdrive unit. I have ran into two different sizes of nuts, either 1&1/4 inch or a 1&1/16 inch, it requires a socket to fit in there. If it is loose the entire output shaft can flop around a little and the ring gear will rub on the inside of the overdrive housing. with the drive shaft off you can probably yank on the brake drum assembly and see if you can detect any wobble in the shaft.

Do you have a length for yours? I have a couple different ones layi ng around the garage

I used anti-rattle belting from Sacramento Vintage Ford Parts, but I think Mac's sells it also.

I had one farther apart than that, you have to drive out the pin in the shaft under the dist. Housing, once removed the collar slides down off the shaft. The shaft can then be slid through the dist. Housing. I would not suggest mixing and matching too much with shafts and internals. I tried using a 1940 201 distributer housing and internals with a 230 dist. Shaft, only reason I did it was me being too cheap to buy the vac advance for the 230 dist and had a near new one for the 201. Apparently something changed in those 15 years and now it over advances and she pings when I pull long grades.