martybose

No kidding; luckily, I've got timecerts (sic) installed, and they seem okay. Marty PS I wonder if I spelled that right ........

Apparently! Actually my Edmunds aluminum head has the sparkplug located where it hits both, like this: See the marks on both valves, not to mention the large gap at the far right side of the closed exhaust valve? That's bent! Marty

For the last month or so my 47 have felt wrong; not as much power, maybe a little vibration. Then 3 weeks ago it suddenly feels like half of the engine died, and I limped home. Pulled the plugs, maybe a little worn, put in a new set. Fire it up, sounds fine, go for a ride, drops cylinders as I go up the freeway onramp, then clears out again. Go home, think maybe float levels? These are Carter-Webers, so pull off the top covers, adjust the floats just a little, check that the jets are really tight (Been there, done that, runs lousy if not real tight), they're okay. Take it out for another drive, still feels wrong. So I make the fatal decision; time to go back to basics. So I pull the plugs again, they look fine. Get out my trusty compression gauge, no compression on #2??? All other holes fine, put the gauge back in #2 and try again. That's when I notice the adapter jumping around as the motor turns over. Pull it out and discover that I hadn't paid close enough attention, and left the long adapter installed that is right for my other car. Big sigh, then start to pull the head off, and bigger than life, I've got at least one bent valve in #2 from hitting the the compression gauge adapter. The head gasket is perfect, so no issue there. I don't know why only #2 was hitting, should have been all of them! I'll pull both valves in #2 next weekend, see if both are bent (I can already see that the exhaust is), and go from there. The annoying thing is that I have no idea whether the compression in #2 was bad before, or whether it has anything to do with my problems! Damn, I feel stupid! The only other possibility I can think of is ignition, and with the HEI there is not much to check; usually they either work or they don't, not much in between. Marty, in disgust ...........

Do you know that the two people who have offered suggestions are wrong? Marty

No argument with that, except that the hood ornament light is more in the "little things" category than the "life-jeopardizing" category. Marty

Most industrial magnetos are meant for constant RPM applications, so they usually lack any advance mechanisms. This could affect both starting and driveability. Marty

Wouldn't you love to know the back story on why someone wanted an aluminum version made of a very rare original Toyota? Marty

I would think that a turbo from a 2.3 liter Ford mounted to an adapter at the outlet of the stock exhaust manifold, limited to 3 or 4 lbs. of boost would be an absolute hoot! Take the oil supply from the oil galley on the other side of the block, put a drain fitting either in the pan or in the oil filler tube. Install an air/fuel ratio gauge with a Bosch sensor in the exhaust pipe so that you can see what the carb is really doing, and drive! Marty

I don't see how having an O-ring can hurt anything. But I can't help wondering if there is room to turn the adapter so the fitting is at the top, so that any oil that gets thrown up there doesn't automatically drain into the hose? Marty

Here's a link to a PDF file that shows the 12V circuit and BOM that I am using to control my OD unit on my 47 (which is equipped with an HEI ignition). Any questions, just ask! The prices are what I paid for them from McMaster-Carr a year or two ago. Adapt as necessary! Marty http://martyb.users.sonic.net/HEI-OD circuit and BOM.pdf

That isn't a stock flathead block casting; look at the angle of the lifters! Marty

Well, he sure didn't look like he was on company property, and I doubt seriously that safety glasses or gloves would have mattered much if it didn't work. It was impressive, however. Marty

My 47 is just like Greg G describes, 8-10 inches. I just have enough room to put in a couple of ammo cans for extra storage (along with the fire extinguisher that is mounted in the center of the bulkhead!). Marty

From your description I'd say that you have a trunk that is exactly where a Business coupe is supposed to be. If a restoration is your goal, it should stay exactly as it is. If you want a back seat you should sell the car and buy a coupe, which by the way has a different roofline and different rear and side windows. If you move the trunk bulkhead you will have a one-of-a-kind not-quite a Business coupe that is not original at all. Marty

A flex fan would probably pull more air at idle, IF it isn't hitting the generator/alternator, which would be highly likely unless you space it farther forward, which isn't likely due to limited space. Marty

While it is easy (and cheap) to find a dry chemical extinguisher, with a bit more effort and $ you can find an extinguisher that is a halon-equivalent one. They put out a fire faster and don't leave a dusty mess to clean up. Marty

Probably something like Mopar Recluse! Marty, a mere stripling approaching 1000 ...........

I just insured my 47 with Grundy for $316.80 annually with a value of $20K. I talked to Hagerty first; the modifications to the engine didn't push the car into the modified category, but the fact that it was lowered 2 inches did! Grundy didn't care about those details; I just sent them a full set of photos (including a couple of it sitting in its garage) and they insured it. Marty

The car might be driveable, but where do you think you're going to get gasoline from? Marty

Given that our spindles are made from a section of tubing, it could be that it isn't straight even if you haven't been in an accident. On my car I shortened the upper A-arms a fudge to get rid of the positive camber, and went too far on one of them. My mechanic just heated up the spindle and tweeked it a little, and was able to adjust it where I wanted it. Marty

Well you lose; it's already at 41! Marty

On my car the horn will not blow if I push the horn ring down on one of the steering wheel arms, but it works fine if I push it down between the arms. Clearly a matter of how much throw you get, but I haven't tried to fix it, I just pay attention to where I push. Marty

I'll take a shot of the parts manual picture and post it when I get home tonight. Marty

I found a good reference in my parts book. The thicker of the two pads goes to the outside of the framerail, the round rubber protrusions have steel ferules to fit in the holes in the frame, and the tubular spacers go through the insulators so that the bolt torque goes from the outer steel plate through the tubular spacers to the steering box, so that it isn't possible to crush the insulators. Marty

Depends on the alternator you are using. The first 6V alternators were negative ground, later they came out with positive ground. Marty