48Dodger

Hot water, simple green,and scotch brite pads. remember to clean the oil galleries with pipe brushes. Air dry the block (compressed air or big fan), paint it, than get some light oil (wd-40) on the cilynders bearings, etc... put a big trash bag over it until you are ready to do the final build. I don't like to use wire brushes if the block is bare ( metal on metal seems to yield metal which can get inside the motor). I myself clean the motor parts first, build the long block, close all inlets with duct tape, then paint. That way nothing gets inside the engine. old spark plugs work good as hole pluggers too. Just some suggestions. good luck. 48D

It's all racing. If someone does something Illegal, let an official take care of it. If a guy is doing faster laps...let him by. If he wants to fight...keep your helmet on, your window net up, then head to your own pit if your ride still moves. You can show respect for a competitor without being compassionate (i.e. Harvick vs. Martin, Daytona 500 2007, or Earnhardt vs. Earnhardt Jr., Iroc 1999). If you gotta rub fenders to get it done, don't be shy. In all, one week your waving "thx" to a guy for letting you pass, then the very next week your drawing a bull’s-eye over the number of his car because of "whatever". Relax and drive your own race. I respect what you did James. You kept your cool and kept your helmet on. 48D

o•ver•haul Pronunciation: ( —v.ō"vur-hôl', ō'vur-hôl"; —n.ō'vur-hôl"), [key] —v.t. 1. to make necessary repairs on; restore to serviceable condition: My car was overhauled by an expert mechanic. 2. to investigate or examine thoroughly for repair or revision: Next year we're going to overhaul the curriculum. 3. to gain upon, catch up with, or overtake, as in a race. 4. to haul or turn over for examination. 5. Naut. a. to slacken (a rope) by hauling in the opposite direction to that in which the rope was drawn taut. b. to release the blocks of (a tackle). —n. Also,o'ver•haul"ing.a general examination and repair: The state roads were badly in need of a major overhaul. Random House Unabridged Dictionary, Copyright © 1997, by Random House, Inc., on Infoplease. 48D

Hey Darin, I dare you to rebuild your own engine! I double dare you! I double DOG dare you! 48D

Hey Darin, Don't fear doing the rebuild yourself. Its easier than you think, its fun, and it changes the way you look at your own car. Most rebuilds you read in magazines are for High Performance engines. Much different animal. The domesticated work horse is very forgiving. Pull out any old chilton's from the seventies or eighties and read up the chapters on rebuilding the long block. Nothing scary there. I agree with James, plenty of help here too.

I'm looking at a pair o' fenders at www.wildcatmopars.com They have a couple different sets. The nice thing about those guys is they take pictures of the part you want and email it right away. Didn't know if you knew about those guys or not. Nothing wrong with fiberglass, unless you plan on trading paint with the boys on the freeway, than steel might be better.

Not a problem Dutch.....I think what I'm reading is that we all want a good looking car AND be able to put gas into too. Down at the race track some guys say that their race car number should read 401k. which reminds me of what a friend of mine said at a car show. Some guy walks up and starts telling him what's wrong with my friend's car. You know, giving his 10 cents when 2 cents would have been fine. My buddy says, "dude...I don't care, it's not for sale". I don't ever want to be that guy. If you love your ride and what you've done with it, cool.... I won't judge.

Hey Dutch. Yes, it can be done for 4000.00. Check my web site for some pictures of a 70 charger I was working the same time I was doing my 72 Racecar. In the pages of "the construction of the 72 charger" you'll see the 70 R/t beside the 72. If you want to hagle the price, that's fine, I was quoting the generic price I was reading. I believe my questions are still valid. The 70 is a customer's car not mine. Charged him under 4000.00, still, that wasn't my point. In all, the original post ask for my opinion. I think I did that, gave my opinion. So, I'll say it again, I'll keep an open mind and look forward to one(all) of you guys pulling it off. www.68mopar.com

Skimping on safety is also human error. Never put a price on it. I have a BackYard Buddy. You'll totally dig lifting stuff Alex......good luck.

8 out of 11......the ones I missed really hurt the "ego"....my apologies to Noah.

True love is a beautiful thing......or a truck, I guess.

Wasn't me Reg........tried, but flinched......I was trying not to inflate the price, but would have paid more than the winning bid. Little disappointed.

New paint jobs that are Base coat and Clear coat (two stage) are wet sanded with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Using water to keep the sandpaper a "true" 2000 grit while carrying out the task. This is followed by buffing with multiple grades of rubbing compounds. There are many projects that don't get wet sanded cuz the car/truck isn't for show, but for work. If done right, the project looks great. Single stage carries its own shine, where as base coats don't. They get thier shine from the clear coat. Single stage is a b*tch to polish and work with in my opinion. So having said that, I can't see the Huge advantage of the foam brush technique. And it would have to be a huge advantage. That "4000.00" dollar paint job everyone keeps talking about includes removal of parts, taping, sanding,body work, bondo, and rust repair in some cases. Does that bag of foam brushes and can of Rustoleum do that as well????? I read the oringinal thread, and the guy seems pretty honest. But the I think a lot of the people replying are forgetting how much prep goes into any auto project. Or maybe they just don't know. I don't plan on brushing a paint job anytime soon, but I'll keep an open mind when one you guys tell me how awesome yours turned out.

Hey "Olddaddy"...Have you seen my truck? I've restored many muscle cars (I do my own body+paint+engines)but if I make the 48 shine ...it'll be my Opus.

I couldn't resist. I bid on the two 'em. Probably won't win, but know you how auctions can make you do crazy things. I have a really rough 48 I love, and have been buying every part on ebay for the past few months.....but hey...why not bid anyway. I'm listed as 68dodgerboy , just case any of guys are bidding along side o' me. Thx for the heads up.

They ended the bidding of the west coast auction early due to availability...they must have read our thread, and knew "the jig" was up.

28%....raised in the California sunshine my whole life y'all.

Gee, count me in. I need some running boards for my 48. the ones on it are snot welded to fenders off a 53. So really I'm looking for round fenders and a good pair of runners to start with.

sorry pappy....my website is www.68mopar.com....sorry if you had trouble:D

Por-15 is a good alternative. Porcelean has a higher PSI than rust and can "kill it" by containing it. Por-15 brushes on, or sprayes on with a thinner. It comes in several colors like satin black, gloss black, grays as well. It was originally designed for frames but has moved into other areas since. Don't blast your frame until you know what method you are going use. Powder coating is the best, but I agree with dodgepu1946 that it isn't necessary unless its on its way to being show winner. Por-15 can be painted right over rust because of its strength. I used a gray Por-15 on my 72 race car undercarrage. I sand blasted first, brushed on por-15, sprayed the flat areas, than went back over it with gray single stage paint with a strong hardener. I go into greater detail on my website( www.6mopar.com ). Look under "construction of the 72 charger". Good luck

Road Trip!

reg, I could use a pattern too. I live in the area, I could stop by and help you with your new headliner business.lol.

I got the email about the chat this Sunday. I won't be home, but wishing I was. I joined recently and have been pretty happy I did so far. Lots of good stuff. I live in the Sacramento, California area and would really like to support a national convention here. Anyway...that's my 2 cents.