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ggdad1951

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Everything posted by ggdad1951

  1. ggdad1951
  2. ggdad1951
    get that drill out!
  3. ggdad1951
    I've seen so many and heard of so many people like that....looking for that last dollar and then when they are gone the kids don't care and just get scrappers....and then they are gone forever. Sounds a lot like a song we all know by Neil Young..... As for the value...yah it's tough...a good survivor is worth it if you can swing it....save the money on the paint/body work and think of it that way? Try to find a parts book maybe and you might see what what standard for what and such (ornament might not have been part of the build). I know next to nothing about the C series so that's my best advice. I don't know if Eric Bannerman's decoder tool works for C series trucks or not.
  4. ggdad1951
    what's sad is he's a multi millionaire and looking to make a few grand vs. finding these vehicles a new home before he passes along. Likely if not sold they all will be crushed as it seems his kids don't care to do the work.
  5. ggdad1951
    I'm bummed I won't get to see this work of art in person
  6. ggdad1951
    Yah if rabbiting the outside edge is a solution, we won't tell anyone and no one will know the difference except those you tell.
  7. ggdad1951
    When I built FEF, I sent QR my back panel as a template for these. Before they were making them in 3 pieces and weren't correct. They aren't hard to install at all. Just gotta get the lip started and work it around.
  8. ggdad1951
    Now you are thinking like a Minnesotan!
  9. ggdad1951
    Its just to remind ya all of what real cold is.
  10. ggdad1951
    good idea
  11. ggdad1951
    LOL BWHAHAHAHAHAAHA Yesterday when I got up the temp was -15°F with a windchill of -53°F.
  12. ggdad1951
    I just grabbed the side that was on top....it was driver side.
  13. ggdad1951
    Passenger side done....as usual the second one looks better...I figured out a way to jig the beads so it would run straight. Way less stress on me and a better look.
  14. ggdad1951
    Did you get them from DCM? I believe the parts I had made and sold to them had a hole for a cotter pin. JIC so it can't drop out...no reason you can't put another hole in or drop a spacer in.
  15. ggdad1951
    You can also stain wood with inks....
  16. ggdad1951
    Base coat..
  17. ggdad1951
    One more step forward!
  18. ggdad1951
    As always....your truck do what you want!
  19. ggdad1951
    My original bed wood is long gone in the fire pit, but I can tell you the countersink was factory and not a repeated tightening of a bolt. Wood in my bed was not by any means all rotten, was actually in decent enough shape, just not resto quality. From a factory setting, the rabbits and a counter sink are not that big of a process to do and litterally the right thing to do for someone that woudl be shoveling. I'd say countersunk factory.
  20. ggdad1951
  21. ggdad1951
    Have fun w/o your MN backup this year....at this point I am unable to commit.
  22. ggdad1951
    Actually a pretty simple hammer form I'd think?
  23. ggdad1951
    Several things need to be cleaned up in the window slot, a different front channel and a different glass channel.
  24. ggdad1951
    I went for it yesterday on the first running board top skin. Those long beads are tough to try and keep straight. Did I? Mostly.....at least its gonna be Rino Lined and not gloss back!
  25. ggdad1951
    Sawhorses, 8x8 chunks and 2x4. My fuzzy memory says I used 3 sawhorses (2 sides 1 back) and used blocking to support the fron so I wasn't on the bed sides. Rear was just on the tail stock piece. You have a hoist tho and there are good ideas out there to lift the bed with that. Just be careful to not deform the bed side tubes with point loads.
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