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ggdad1951

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Everything posted by ggdad1951

  1. ggdad1951
    Looks right for the tail light sheathing. As for the rear fender welting, I just used body caulk. Screwing around with a linear piece of rubber on curves...might prove challenging. If you want to use that from DCM, cut off the lolli and go for it.
  2. ggdad1951
    Fenders off is easiest....and not hard to put on after.
  3. ggdad1951
    pic of FEF prior to all the stuff back on, starter hole still there.
  4. ggdad1951
    Yah, I epoxied the bushings in the bottom tube and did the post weld in far enought you can't see it, so mininmal impact for a huge function gain. I'll try to find the pics I have and repost.
  5. ggdad1951
    B series trucks should have the allowance as well. I know there are a few videos floating around of memebers showing off their expertise!
  6. ggdad1951
    No reason for them not to align, otherwise you will bind on your bottom tube. When I did FEF, I did the trick with bushings and welding on a solid bar instead of the roll formed tube....not that I ever open the tailgate, LOL. With the site changes I can't seem to locate those instructions I found here. Maybe someone else will be able to.
  7. ggdad1951
    There is a guy on EPAY that sells lights, I visited him to get TODDs roof markers and he has a pile of them. Seller name of "dsiceman". He has quite the selection in his shop.
  8. ggdad1951
    Cheater! To quadruple check: FEF's tear down pics have the arm on the grill side, PARTS and ART do as well. Altho the direction of the tab seems to be inconsistant (which direction they spotted the bend). So I'd agree, grill side. Does it REALLY matter...likely not.
  9. ggdad1951
    As much as that sucks (scratching the paint) it was bound to happen. At least you got it over with and it's not the side of the door! Touch it up and we won't tell anyone!
  10. ggdad1951
    You can fix the heat riser closed if you'll never drive in the cold or you can fix it to be functional, it's not really all that hard and the spring should still be available. I think I got mine from Burnbaum. Color think this way: if it was bolted directly onto the engine it was silverwith these exceptions. Air filter, oil filter, starter, geni, oil breather, coil mount all black. Splash panels, etc and other engine bay stuff all black.
  11. ggdad1951
    Basically you need to do this. If something is stuck, taking the head offf will tell you way more than guessing and poking at it. It's not the end of the world to take the head off.
  12. ggdad1951
    If you can't weld, you better know how to grind!
  13. ggdad1951
    He needs to finish his building. I wanted it there before snow/salt on the roads. I'm guessing he'll start in Jan.
  14. ggdad1951
    Moved to the new building my paint/body guy built. I spent quite a few weekends helping build that building this last summer.
  15. ggdad1951
    gut'n'tite!
  16. ggdad1951
    my 2 cents: While WE care and want the rear wheel centered in the fender...doubt they cared that much back in the day. IMO general order of assy was: frame, engine, trans, axles, cab, bed, rear fenders, running boards.....then all the little bits. I highly doubt they based off the bed/rear fender. Too much going on in the cab that needs alignment with the frame: steering, pedals, etc. Cab went on first and everything went off that.
  17. ggdad1951
    Splash shields can go in last IMO, just have to be careful. Most are set up to have play anyway, having them in too early might get in the way, cause binding or scratch things anyway.
  18. ggdad1951
    I have that exact one in FEF! most of these I've seen in the wild are on the left side of the steering wheel as on the B3/B4 it would be in the way of the cowl vent lever, but I like how it looks in the center. As most have said, likely an aftermarket heater switch. So you end up putting where you want to.
  19. ggdad1951
    Looks good. One thing you can do to improve the welds is to clean all the paint/rust off the weld area about 1" away from where the weld will be. Reduces the chances of porosity getting in the weld joint.
  20. ggdad1951
    I have a B3D with the same gears...might be taller tires, but I get 60mph under redline RPM easy....put a tach in and you'll know for sure where you sit. Bigger thing at 60MPH is the steering and braking.
  21. ggdad1951
    yep you found the cracks....pretty common on these guys.
  22. ggdad1951
    Saturday I had to say goodbye to the truck... He left for paint! 😁
  23. ggdad1951
    Devil is in the details. Glad to see you back on this. I'd LOVE to see another option for our trucks!
  24. ggdad1951
    You need to get the lock out in order to reset the pins. Might be able to figure the pins out in situ, but might not. Yes, you'd need to drill the check arm rivet out. I've had luck in pulling door hinge pins....but they can be a pita. Or just unbolt the hinges. Even if you drill the screw out, youll need to keep the lock in place at reinstall. Hence why I did the post on the shaft collar. Break it off, shaft collar, problem solved.
  25. ggdad1951
    1. Well, IF and I mean IF you get that set screw out, you'll be one of a VERY few who do. Right hand screw, but generally so frozen in and small of a drive it doesn't happen. Most find a different way, drilling out, breaking off etc. to get the keeper screw out. See below for my way of dealing with it. The door and ingnition should be the same key. 7. Merle is right, I have loosened several this way. I hung a cinder block to help put tension on while hanging vertical.
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