NiftyFifty

Permatex makes a clear silicone that's specifically for windshields that flows very well, so after install you can use it and no ugly black to try and clean up anywhere. I used it on mine, seemed to seal it about 95%...I think my only issues now is a screw leaking

Oils cheap, and lots of cardboard in the world for the garage floor! Lol i changed the bottom half of my seal and got away with that...you could get lucky too if that where the leak is from. I cleaned my engine really well with brake clean around the rear, then took the inspection cover off and got the truck hot and up on some engine stands..I couldnt see oil coming out that high so I cleaned it again and replaced the bottom 1/2. Fixed that leak....now my front seal is leaking

Doing the two piece seal in the vehicle is close to impossible, but apparently is do-able, but I know when I went to fix mine this spring, it's 10x more work then I was willing to do with the timeline and area I had to do it in. The manual is useless in this case, at least for the trucks.

Reg is in Cali, that in itself is another factor...climate changes how things run and in warmer climates you'll notice this issue a lot less...where I am in Canada...we need to run for 15 mins darn near 6 months of the year...even a few mornings back it was 9 deg Celsius...a few minutes was needed

Good call, I never considered that as an issue, glad it's mended and no damage.

Some did and some didn't, my 1950 1 ton never did, nor did my 51 parts truck. Most cars did I believe and 1/2 tons made in the US, Canada seems to be more without advance

Darn near every carbureted engine does that when it's cold, but sometimes it's the heat riser stuck in the open position or not working anymore....or if you run a open filter style air breather. I wouldn't be concerned

Straight is the answer, looks like someone had a hard stop or bad adjustment at one time

Looks like your off to a good start, I always found the S-10 swaps I've seen had the front wheels never centred in the wheel well, but hopefully you can adjust for that. Little more challenge on the box for the hump, but it's been done a 1000 times before and another 1000 to come...I think a lot of days I regret not going this way, with exception of using a dakota frame.

Looks to be early 30's I'd think, did you look on the drivers door where the hinges are between door and body for another plate? cool find, how's the body?

If you order from Roberts they will already sell you the lengths/amounts you need. Only thing they messed up for my order was the window run clips were wrong, and not quite enough too fender rubber seal that runs under the hood.

I considered one of these, but it seemed most were for much lighter fwd cars, so it seemed like it might tax the system too much with the added weight of my truck and my large front tires. There are some other ones on the market from companies like Ididit but a whole lot more $ and all under dash mounted which I really don't think would fit or look good under the truck dash. My rack was about $200, pump around $80 on RockAuto and with hoses and fittings maybe another $75-80 and then I built all my own bracketry out of 1/4" and 1/8" plate. The tie rod adapters maybe cost another $100 because I paid for them to be drilled on a lathe. Lots of work, but well worth it in the first small parking space or spot where someone blocks you in

What's wrong with the one there?? I didn't quite understand, looks good too me

I have, out of an Omni/Rampage...only reason I mention the rampage is you want a rack with the return line NOT on the top of the tube. If you do a search I think you'll find my topic on my install. Been in a few years, very happy with it.

Still lots of single stage paint on the market if you look for it, but you will run into poorer quality paints, which sometimes mean less pigment in them and means more coats. My paint was single stage on my truck, but its issue was poor drying time....dry sprayed like a bugger, again...poorer quality in the single stage products.

I'd give the grill bars a shot of new flat white paint..or even better would be an off white and it will look great

My issue with grease is it stays wet and might pop off again once in use...I used a bit of dish soap on mine...same thing...was a tight fit, but has never moved since.

You don't have to change your pertronix out, but do make sure your plug wires aren't out one spot

Could be out a tooth so to say and still run if the oil pump wasn't right, as to why it's not at the typical 7:00. Did you ever adjust that bottom distb bolt?

Avoid driving or running it much with that popping, a buddy just had a 65 Ford decided to try and BBQ itself because it backfired through the carb and ignited some oil on the manifold...sadly he had the air cleaner off jut to move it across the shop and that's all it took.

Ran open and fine for years like that, and the valve was wide open, no heating issues. Only issue I ever had was an electric gauge reading wrong..but a resistor fixed that.

Just be careful using those as a speedometer on the highway, gps on certain devices is allowed to be out by a certain % and some a lot more then others, and even some apps show different..it's not a whole bunch, but if you were on the highway and already possibly pushing things, it could be out a few mph and have you over what that cop deems ok that day. There are actual speedometer gauges you can buy and mount permanent that look like classic gauges that use a gps unit mounted in the truck and no subscription needed, and no worries about forgetting phones or dead cell batteries..but they are a bit pricier then most gauge sets, and are only 12volt I believe.

To save any issues, next time all you need to do is pull the line off the carb, put a 4-6" rubber line on it that fits fairly snug and put a small slit in it at the 1/2 way and put a blow gun into the slit...it pulls like your siphoning the gas and doesn't put pressure on the tank or system...just be prepared when the gas starts coming with a rag or bottle. I've pumped out a few gas tanks this way.

Rather then cap, I just ran the rear heater feed line right to the pump, that way I wasn't worried about trying to make a leak proof stop in the system , it just flowed in a loop....but up here you need heat in the spring and fall, so I found a better heater and put it back in.

You can get 6 volt pumps, my buddy just put one on an early 50s Merc in conjunction with the manual pump...I guess those Ford flat heads like to boil gas out of the intake mounted pump and carb.