NiftyFifty

I hope your not looking for too much funding to come from the engine sale...might take a dent out of your shipping costs for the kit. Lol

Likely better to post this in the car section, not the truck section...welcome to the site, and hope you find your answers

There is definitely a time and a place for the proper gaskets...valve covers and intake and etc...but when it comes to sealing differentials, 90% of the time RTV silicon is the answer and it can be trimmed after with a razor blade to be pretty unnoticed, but if your building a concourse truck, then I guess gasket is the way to go..maybe don’t put oil in it..nothing ruins judging like puddles LOL

Ultra Black by permatex is the best stuff to use, all on its own..no gasket. I use it all the time, works much better then the old paper gaskets.

I get that email after every purchase, helps a bit with the shipping, but I’m finding more and more I have to watch their prices compared to local jobber stores.

Google it and says Dodge Central of Michigan and they use Dodge On the site as well.

No holes in the door, it hangs on with the door hinge pin...but I solved the same issue Merle had by just adjusting that bracket out and tack welding it to the door pin...but The truck was also full stripped so I wasn't hurting paint and I could hit the weld. Works great...live it for back out of the garage..found myself too close to the opening a few times before the mirror

That road draft tube would have that black in a day...but cool idea if it was a boat..lol

Michigan Dodge sells them every day...that's where I got mine, worked great

When you open the link biscuit posted, click on the little Facebook logo and it goes to their Facebook page..but you'll have to have an account to see it likely

I don’t recommend Pilot House interiors, way over priced for the results in my experience. Roberts stuff actually look pretty good, and as posted about Quiet Ride has been used lots.

$12-15,000....not even imaginable to spend on a flathead, unless I just took home the winning lotto ticket, but very cool set up.

Well not to put a damper on things, but if yours has the two piece seal like mine does...it's darn near impossible to change it with the engine in the truck. You will have to remove trans, and clutch and flywheel to get to the top half of the seal, but removing the flywheel is its own set of challenges if the bolts are seized into the crank like mine were....it's a horrible horrible job...LOL....sorry, just trying to be honest...I just replaced bottom 1/2 of mine this spring, that was enough to fix the problem, but I just got lucky, as it was changed already once when I rebuilt the engine. if it's the 1 piece, then you should be able to roll it in, so oil pan set, some tie wire to put back on the main bearing bolts and some ultra black is always handy for the oil pan corners

You should be able to just cut the tube that the tie rods screw into, shouldn't have to touch the tie rods themselves. I cut the right hand threaded side one, and I might have run a few more threads in it...just be careful when you disassemble to mark which side is which and the passenger side is left hand thread

Mine was a sealed plastic vent, no way to tamper with it, not sure if yours is the same Soup

Throw it out...I bought one of those "vented" caps for mine...had bucking and vapour locking issues whenever it got hot out...finally drilled a hole right through the top and solved those issues, but Id prefer to find the right cap if I could.

Silly question...is your gas cap vented/not plugged?? Or lines pulling air somewhere??

Looks like a nice truck and yes it must be 3/4 or 1 ton with the 6 bolt patten. I see all the interior has been removed, but you can get all the parts for that from Roberts Motor Parts online.

Lots of places to get lap belts, I built threaded plates that go under the floor and bolt through from the top...it's a little bit of security, especially for any passengers, as they have to wheel to hold

Tie rod ends are not something to cheap out on...try Rockauto, but I pretty much only recommend the Moog branded ones.

Its the exact same front end basically, but the spindles are bigger and different bolt pattern for the rims...if you can find a 1/2 ton axle it will bolt right up, and I would recommend losing a leaf or two out of the front for comfort....I did this exact swap when I built my truck...just remember, only every other spring...so from bottom up, leave 1 take away 2, leave 3 take away 4 etc..

I guess some people on here don't know the strength of jb weld...if you farm it's a life saver, and have seen cracked blocks fixed with it...he said pin hole, it's not a 1/2" gash I'm guessing, on top of that....since when does a minor oil leak burn down trucks?? If that was the case, 95% of flathead trucks would be ashes

Solder won't stick, uless your going to silver solder it and that's as hard as brazing for the most part...clean it up really well, JB weld the spot and then put a little black rtv over that once the jb is fully cured...shouldn't cause you any more issues, but sand the spot with some rough 80-40 grit sand paper so the jb can grab

The brake line fitting is likely national pipe thread and the brass 90 deg looks to be fine thread on the male end...where is this destined for?

The windshield size isn't the issue, it's the replacement rubber that is not of the right size compared to original on out outside seam. Larger windshield would likely just make everything wonky including the inner seam.