Uncle-Pekka

Great photo, this cheered up my day! Cute little toddler and rare piece of machinery. She appears to be very proud of the car and for a good reason. Were the "street legal cars" also targeted to be toys? (...like the carnival rides) It must have been quite rare product, in 1924 only very rich could afford such toy(?). Thanks for sharing!

Wow! Me I am a sucker for that car porn! Wish I'll have time to do my engine as nicely some day... The original cover tops of the air & oil cleaner look very sharp chromed. Just takes some time and work to polish them parts that good. Congratulations for nice job!

PP, There are solenoids and relays available 6V and 12V just look up at sellers providing B&W OD parts, also eBay. You are right, 6V solenoid cannot be used in 12V system, nor vice versa, but you will find same dimensioned solenoid as e.g. Mopar R10 is using also as 12V unit.

Tim, oh Tim... Please read carefully my post before answering... Do I say someone should not modify their cars? I have to comment on this: I cannot think how 6V system would limit or make it harder to use the car regularly or for longer trips? It's a good idea keeping a 6V ignition coil with you on long hauls, but hey, it's the same with 12V coil at least here in Europe - Odds are you will not find any coil on today's "service stations" in case you''l blow it on the road. Other than the ignition parts, does not prevent driving on... I was not commenting against modifications, but merely asked why to convert 6V to 12V. Reliability is not the answer even if I read you previous comment to say so. Now you bring up stereo systems, AC, ABS brakes etc. - OK, I agree you better do 12V system in case you want those nice things to your car. But hey, let's be honest out there; How many of those who did the 12V conversion ever installed AC or ABS in their 40's cars ? Stereos yes, but anything else? I must be sincere; I do not like "street rods" nor "billet"... I belive everyone should build his own as per his comforts and dreams, but for me putting modern V6 and mustang sub frame does not make any sense. Why not buy 2005 mustang if you really prefer drive one rather than these old beasts? To me the big slow turning but torquey flathead is the soul of these cars. One who thinks it's only the external appearance is incomprehensible to me. I know this does not make any sense to most of people, but I find it more fashinating and challenging to do the modifications by using roughly period parts. One who says modern technology is more reliable does not know anything of these cars. Properly overhauled and maintained these cars go way beyond you can ever go with a modern computer controlled engine. What I am after is the FEELING you get blowing down the road powered by half century engines. I am not limited by period technology - I am being freed and empowered by it! Sorry I was carried away, but it's good to sometimes talk about the ideology behind the hobby. Everyone has his own, this is mine.

I have to comment on this: I cannot think how 6V system would limit or make it harder to use the car regularly or for longer trips? It's a good idea keeping a 6V ignition coil with you on long hauls, but hey, it's the same with 12V coil at least here in Europe - Odds are you will not find any coil on today's "service stations" in case you''l blow it on the road. Other than the ignition parts, does not prevent driving on...

First of all; plenty sellers offer 6V stuff, it's just matter of asking around (or google as today..) Andy Bernbaum who do advertise on this site do have the original correct part. Plenty of seller at eBay offer replacements. However, I'd begin as Don Coatney adviced testing the circuits and making sure where the problem lies. I see that this is also leading to the eternal discussion 6V vs. 12V. In my opinion 6V is as good as 12V for these cars. Most of the problems 6V system gets blamed are actually due to corroded contacts and failed insulation in the old car. In my case I cannot belive how big difference in 6V cranking new and properly soldered cables made - I actually bought a new 6V battery, but after step one replacing the cables I backed off and left the new battery dry in the self waiting for time that I really will need it. There are many exiting and useful up-grades you can do for these cars - In my opinion 6-12V conversion is not one of worth-to-do's. Cheers, Uncle-Pekka

What could be better than a Packard? Ask a man who owns ONE... ... TWO Packards!!! And a rendered one...

Come on Tim, don't be so BITTER.. This one will soothe your soul...

I do not intend to hi-jack the thread to other makes, but I've been told that you do not have pre-50's Checker cars left in the States due to Checker company effective re-cycling policy? Even if Checker was never imported to Finland by any dealer, we have some 3-4 40's A2 models survived here... It's a long famous story, roots in the WW2 and poor times after, summer Olympics 1952 in Helsinki... However, the city authorities decided that old pre-war taxi cabs would be shameful and bad for city image during the Games, thus a pool of taxi entrepreneurs sent agent over to Checker Co. to buy a batch of used taxi cabs. That's the only time Checkers were imported. It turned out disaster because the agent got greedy, tried to save money for himself and bought burned out A2's instead of newer A3's as he should have done... The above car is the only survivor of the batch of some 40..50 cars. There are 3-4 almost complete parts cars along with this one. I've heard that Checker enthusiast all over the world have been here to se these cars. There were a mention with a picture in "Hemmings Classic Car" of the finnish A3's some 3-4 years ago. The A3, not much different from A2 in a picture.

Selling Hudson(s) ? What year model?

As Tim pointed out, there was not any hearse in my rendered pictures posted above. To amend it, I will post a real hearse (along with Tim's Packard); a Superior built on Cadillac chassis:

Robust taxi-meter in the 4th photo. Would like to see the details. Do the fellows here (Lou & Rob?) have the cars still equipped with the original 40's-50's meters? EDIT: Scanned eBay and found that there are quite many different taxi-meters from 30's to 60's

Good morning Tim, (unless the Great Pumpkin got you last night) I perfectly agree and understand you will rather trust the Packard, so would I if I ever will be fortunate to find one. Please post more photos of it. As matter of fact I recognized the chevy is 1948 sedan delivery, not ever hearse (I wonder if entry level chevy was ever made to hearse, suppose Cadillacs, Buicks and Pontiac's were more popular hearses from the GM fleet?) However, I picked the shot of the delivery as starting point of my artistic adventure because of the trees in the background. After some digital processing they made the Halloween mood I was after... The best result, may still be the below Cadillac?

And another one for Plymouthy Addams Family; Behold! - It's a cursed Chebby!

Tim, Sorry - it's been kind of busy week, I noticed you message today & answered right away. Hope I'm not too late...

Ed, I had the same problem with my 1951 Nash B&W OD when I first got the car. It kept blowing the fuse. When I pulled the solenoid the contacts were in bad condition. I cleaned contacts but the problem continued. As I opened solenoid end cover again the hold contact was burn. I replaced it by riveting new contact on the burn exisiting. Still no progress. At this point I replaced solenoid. Afterwards I took the original solenoid to an auto electrician. He told the hold coil was defect. (insulation burn, I take it?) I am not saying yours has to be the same problem as mine, but the symptoms appear the same. Also Tim's above suggestion makes sense: In case there's a bad or corroded connection some where along the circuit, it will load the fuse (& entire system). /Unkka

There are people on this forum who know the interchangeability right on the spot, thus I recommend to wait until they wake up. However, my answer, based on how the parts look out and measure is: - bumpers are not the same, plymouth bumpers are smooth simple design, dodge, desoto & chrysler bumbers have wave like contour, all different from each other - google photos - back door should be the same

Too bad to have expensive tastes, but no money... These mid-30's Airflow coupes are just so dashing beautiful and well built bodies. Painfull to realize I will ever never own one. Can you imagine how did it felt for someone who afford one brand new back at the day they were at dealers? The guy next door drove an used model A ford and you cruised down the street in this art-deco streamliner!

Rats, I bet they won't ship overseas anyway...

Great score Mark - Congratulations!

Well, the world is full of cars: There were more makes around in 1947 than there's today... Thus plenty of choice ;-) But seriously; Why not P15 Club Coupe? - The same body as Business Coupe, but with rear seat. I suppose business coupe could be converted to CC in case you could find the seats & upholstery (or fit with modern seat, but then you would have to call it "street rod" yikes!) Also D24, S11or C38 Club Coupe would have same charming appearance yet also back seat. I am not allowed to say it out loud here, but same are GM fast back bodies (Such as Chev. Aerosedan, Pontiac Torpedo or Buick Sedanette) offer roomy back seat in a coupe body. Just Google around in case you are not fortunate to have Tad Burness' "American Car Spotters Guide 1940-65") /Unkka EDIT: Casper was faster! When I was writing my long story he added the intro video of P11 Club Coupe. As for Plym., I belive 5-window is not a good description, since P11 and P15 business coupes were build into the same body (5W), while eg. Dodge business coupes were 3W with long trunk and Club Coupes were 5W similar to Plymouth. However, the message is the same: Club Coupe (5W) is a family car!

Welcome to the Best in the World Hobby Car Forum, Dude! You will find there's a great bunch of fine fellows in here. Great to see a P-14, not many around (not any here in Finland!) I like the grille design - clean and stylish. Dude, we expect you to abide ;-) (ref. to my favorite movie...)

Thanks Tim - Very useful info - much appreciated! /Pekka

Well, At this point I am just curious to learn, would it be possible to use the guts from the 1954 New Yorker 3rd member for my car. The odds are, that the '54 most probably would be 3,73, but nothing has been verified yet. Yes, today I'm running 4,1:1 rear end and R10 OD. Smooth sailing, but the engine revs still kind of high at 60 mph. I belive I would try 3,73 if that's possible by using the parts in house now. However, all that will be for spring time or next summer. As said; an exciting possibility brought up by Tim, that in rare case the 1954 rear could be 3,54:1. May not be useful for me with the OD, but I'm sure I'll find demand for such gear.

Beautiful picture, Bob. I always enjoy the pictures you take on your travels. I second to Roberts comment - Always enjoy viewing Bob's "travel logs"...