Uncle-Pekka

Up-date; a couple of weeks ago I took the car on the pit. Following DJ's instrucions the problem was in the governor. So I took it out. Looked OK. I just took off the top cover with the contacts. I cleaned it and washed in petroleum. Checked action in bench by pulling the center shaft by hand. Installed - And the system works like a charm! Now my final quest is to adjust the lever linkage - I've got occasional problem to get in the 3rd gear. Requires accurate but firm wrist movements...

Thanks fellows, I'll be posting photo's of my engine bay as soon the hectic summer wears out... Unkka

Folks, Now that I got the car painted and R10 OD installed I'm pickin' the cherries and enjoying some detail jobs... Such as paste of the water decals I bought some years ago from Bernbaum's. However, I could not find a proper photo; where exactly on the oil bath air cleaner the decal was originally located? Please help. Authentic photo is requested. Thanks, Unkka-Pekka

Hi, The grill is stainless sheet metal, die pressed to shape & spot welded together (at least the 1948 cars are). I found one very poor condition, overpriced: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-dodge-grill-for-parts-or-restoration-other-makes-custom-rat-rod-46-47-/400721032889?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4cd5b6b9&vxp=mtr - would not pay more than $20 for this badly dented unit, its only good for spare bars Some 3-4 years back I bought one for spare at eBay. I recall I paid 30...40 bucks. It's un-dented, but the attaching brackets are off. Also super dirty, obviously been laying on the ground on some salvage yard for several years. It will buff off just fine, though.

Thanks for sharing, Ed. The Power Wagon is my personal favourite of these: Would be a fun machine to have...

Ed, the parking brake works ok, of course, after all, it's well made Seriously, at the state inspection they do a dyno test for all the brakes. The front wheels gave ca. 2,2 kNm, rear 2.0 and the parking brake at rear wheels 1,7 kNm, which was better value than with the original steel drum. It does not shake neither, but that was no worry in advance. I knew that lighter material drum turned all over would be better balanced than the original. As I wrote yesterday, the governor is under suspicion due to the OD encages on low speeds...

Well, Tim... I've got a lot of plans, but so little time. Or to put it more franly: I am not very effectively using my time on the things I plan to do. Maybe a couple of millions jackpot in the lottery would help me to run my life more independently? The van was bound for crusher some five years back when my neighbour cleaned his summer house back yard. Of course I could not let it happen thus brought it home with me. My vaque plan is to make it roadworthy one of these years, then use it as "shop truck". It's very spartan vehicle but extremely handy due to small turning circle, good driveability and relatively high ground clearence. There's a big back door to make loading easy.

Nope, It's a 1962 Renault R4 fourgonette van... Commercial version of the famous 60's french all purpose buggy. Sports a 30 hp 745cc four in-liner and 3-speed.

She's running! Yesterday I completed the OD wiring, ran the 1st test run and passed the state inspection, thus we're all set for the summer! fresh photo: Only some minor (I hope) electric problem appeares: It seems that the overdrive is able to encage at which speed at all. When I move the car on 1st gear the OD encages. If I try to reverse, the reverse gear does not encage unless I hit the kickdown first (dash mounted for now). I suspect it may be defect or dirty governor or just some logical failure in my wiring job... It will be investigated further in detail during the summer vacation in July, if not earlier. On the road she's now just great. The torque is mellow to pull from 30 to 70 mph on the "4th gear", 3rd + OD... This is my dream come true with the D24. Once more BIG Thanks to all of you! First and foremost Tim A., Roadking and Young Ed. Without the technical help and encourage by the great folks here at forum I doubt I would have been able to put the OD transmission together for my car.

Gregg, You're right ford parts shops have good looking batteries at "a-fordable prices": http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/battery-ford-script-6-volt-9-1-4-long-x-7-3-8-wide-x-9-high.html http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/battery-ford-script-6-volt-10-1-2-long-7-wide-7-7-8-high.html - drawback is the oval logo is embossed Why corresponding product with mopar logo costs twicw as much? http://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/TurboStart/Script/G1_M.html

Does any shop offer "period correct" tar top 6V batteries any more? Or even ones that would look like the tar top...?

Hi Mattias, About the parts sources - Unfortunately I do not know any good suppliers in Scandinavia. It does not mean there could not be any, but at least they are not known (by myself). I've got all the special parts from Andy Bernbaum's and generic parts from RockAuto. (Well, I even bought set of tires from the States when I had a chance to have them shipped in with my buddy's car.) This very forum, however, is invaluable source of information and advice in case you run in trouble fixing the car - Thus you've already found the best place! Br., Pekka

She's a beauty! I love the patina inside & out. Where from you found the car? (Which state she came from?)

Toppen! Steel skirts are the way to go (I know the other side of the coin: Cheap me I bought fiberglass skirts by BigJim, they're nonsense) I also noticed your car has straight grille and rocker board mouldings. The rocker brightware is dented on most of these cars. Just keep on coming more photo's we all will enjoy them. 3W business coupes are sweet looking cars.

Congratulations Mattias! Great looking coupe! Wide white walls, Fulton visor, skirts and great looking stance - what more would you possibly want? Are the fender skirts steel?

Tim, the rust is on the hood and front clip, which is from steel sedan acc. to the listing. Something fishy on the body, the firewall does not look right to me? I agree with Harley, that at the time "sunset boulevard" was made there was no point making replica of '48 Plymouth conv. However, I doubt this was the thing on the movie...? May be made for some other, not so famous movie later on...?

I have all the electric parts with me; the solenoid, kickdown switch, lockout switch and the relay, they are just not wired/connected yet. I do consider the location of the kickdown currently: on the throttle linkage as original setup (I do not have support bracket, not any drawings or photos where & how) on the dash similar to Young Ed did below the gas pedal on the floor (has anyone done this before?) toggle switch in the shift lever knob as Pete (Blueskies) did - need an extra relay to hook the low current switch a separate foot operated push button on the floor, may be next to clutch ??? Pros & cons? Again I have time to consider the alternatives since I had to drive back from the garage site to home last night. It will be 2-4 weeks before I get back there to finalize the wiring & stuff.

Folks, I finally did the mechanical rebuild of the transmission during the Easter holidays, thus was able to verify the rear sealing in practise. Answer is: The Timken 8160S is the correct modern replacement for the rear seal, fits good & tight. However, the original seal is a pack containing a lip seal and a felt dust seal in a sheet metal frame (pressed outer ring) The original is less sensitive against dirt and sand flying under the car, but the modern Timken has a NBR dust lip for that duty. I wonder, does Andy Bernbaum still have the original packing available, they are listing T-115 rear seal for cars 1940-56...?

The mechanic part is done. The "mixed" unit is mounted in the car and the trans seems to work as tested by 100m drive round the garage. (floor and pedal pads are still off). The holiday is almost over. Thus I'll not have time to do the O.D electrics now. Still I am very pleased with the job accomplished... Thanks to all valuable advice, especially to Roadking, Ed and Tim. Pekka EDIT: At the garage door just before test drive:

False alarm. It was just a matter of force. I was afraid to use force since the pin type synchro clutch came off just by hand... The other obviously was much tightly on and had some burr on the snap ring groove. I'm in business again... Putting the od unit back together with fluid drive input shaft. ... EDIT: Photo at the shop just before the swap of the guts: The 1954 pin type above, my original 1948 brass synchro below. 2014-04-18 13.19.17 by v.pekka

Folks, need URGENt help. I am in garage, pulled both units apart, original 3speed and the od-3-speed side. Already swapped input shafts, went ok. just cannot get the brass synchro clutch gear off the main shaft. I took off the snap ring and the c.g. comes out the snap ring width, but no more. I've looked all I can think, but cannot figure it out... help!

I measured the sealing shoulder of the flange hub, it's 1,562" thus a vote for the Timken 8160S (?) Now some of you may think, why don't I just pull the old seal and measure it. Well, first of all, again I am 180 miles away from my garage and preparing for Easter holiday to get there with the right parts. Second, even if I were there I'd be afraid to pull and destroy the old seal before I have a new one in my pocket... Does it make sense? P.s. Larry, could it really be that Plymouth would have different size of seal than Dodge? The one you suggested has BIGGER shaft than mine. Mine measured about 1-18/32".

Folks, I am in fire: I ask and answer myself! I found a Timken catalog in web, which said Dodge transmission rear seal would be Timken 8160S - Can anyone of you confirm? Product Details: Part Number: 8160S Seal Housing Bore (in): 2.441 Seal Housing Material: Steel Seal Installation Style: Press Fit Seal Lip Material: Nitrile Seal Outside Diameter (in): 2.445 Seal Shaft Size (in): 1.562 Seal Width (in): 0.5

I tried to search this on the forum, but could not find topic before... Can anybody tell the size of the lip seal in the rear of the transmission, part #50 in below assy? I suppose it must be a common lip seal size to find in almost any parts shop?

Stupid me! Should have thought this. I put the car on stands on the rear axle. Just thought there would be more room underneath, but missed that propeller will be on thrust... Thanks for pointing this out. I'll change the support for mounting. /unkka p.s. Adam, I will check the grease, thanks for reminder. Rick, Mine is late 1948, trunion on both ends, however, does not seem to compress much, may be the grease as Adam suggested.