Uncle-Pekka

Rick gave the correct answer, but let me elaborate on it. Please see below "fig.2" on the body manual: On my car the tiny door covering the hole where the set screw hides was partially covered by weather stripping. Without this picture in the body manual I would never found it.

looking at the D24 pictures, I start to wonder, should the molding strip between the hood halves be bright? See below. I am asking for the "Custom"-trim car. On mine, it was painted and when I did the re-paint job I painted it once again. Now I wonder if it should be polished stainless as the moldings on the sides of the hood and the fenders? Facts please?

When surfing in the web, I came across this picture: It is not photoshopped, but built by Canadian coachbuilder J.C.Little: "John J.C. Little (1888-1971) started his career as a coachbuilder at Canada's largest coachbuilder, the O.J. Mitchell Hearse Company of Ingersoll, Ontario. He built his first home-built coach sometime in 1937 and by 1940 had saved up enough money to open his own body shop. From his small shop, which was located in the service bays of an Ingersoll Shell station, Little produced a series of hand-built professional coaches until he closed in the late Fifties. He specialized in modifying regular wheelbase production vehicles into sedan-ambulances and funeral cars. Little's long-wheelbase coaches were built using the same techniques used by today's stretch limousine builders. He typically took a regular wheelbase coupe or sedan and cut it in half through the center of the B-pillar. He then extended the chassis and drivetrain and inserted a hand-made section between the exposed halves of the car. The custom-built section was securely welded to the body, and the resulting seams were filled with lead, sanded smooth, and then primed and painted. His small size made him unable to purchase the purpose-built commercial chassis that larger manufacturers used under their professional cars." I wonder, if any of the J.C.Little built LWB Dodge or Chrysler cars has survived until now? Any of you guys ever seen such? It is much longer than the factory 7-passenger sedan.

Just to pass time on a cold winter night, I made this composition by scanning first pages of the owners manual and editing them with Photoshop style digital tool... Maybe I'll print it on a cardboard to use as introduction in summer meetings & car shows...

Only one way to know for sure: Carefully grind it all off. In case you'll only find one layer of primer underneath it - it was the factory original coat.

Looks like the air is a bit "thick" there... Amount of the snow on ground is about the same as here in Jyväskylä now - only that we have got it much slower pace during last 7-8 weeks; 2-3" a week... The brave birds are still seeking seeds on your yard. Hope that winds will not go crazy. Take care! Cheers, Pekka

Hang on there Mark, Hope you do have a fireplace and enough chopped firewood to keep the family warm in case of blackout? Keep posting so that we know you're not entirely buried in snow. We heard, that ca. 600 flights were cancelled to to the approaching blizzard. Also Finnair cancelled the flights to N.Y. & Boston tonight and tomorrow. Best wishes from Finland, stay safe! /Pekka

Wayfarer roadsters for sale currently; http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/dodge/wayfarer

... and look what happened to her! It surely did not brought any good luck for her. Talk about the Curse of the Gravel Shield.

On mine, the front edge of the door is some 3...4 mm deeper in than the rear edge of the front fender. Is that what you asked? When I was in process to paint the car I tried to align the door with the fender, but did not succeed. Looking at the photos of D24's found here, I suppose it was made that way.

The clock in my car did not worked when I got the car. I opened the clock to clean it and noticed by chance, that the hot wire of the small solenoid had popped off the contact due to defect solder or some shock. I soldered the wire back on and cleaned the clockwork gently, oiled with sewing machine oil and tested it with 6V battery - Bingo! It worked again! I never knew anything about clock gears, but the story prooves that once you only work careful, you should check for the obvious faults before going to expensive experts. I am sorry I failed to take any photos at the time...

As far as I know, re-chroming of pot metal parts is very demanding. Repair of pitting needs every each pit hole bored clean, filled with brass, precision grinding and "priming" by copper plating, then grinding & polishing again... I would like to know what it costs to have such small part professionally re-chromed? Has anyone had it done recently?

Well, the way I see it you can start it whenever you want, but once you started it, it's no longer new. Thus you can start a new engine only once... think about it... Kinda same thing as it is with the mushroom: You can eat any mushroom, but certain ones only once in your life...

Having read the first post in this thread we should be talking about 1948 D24 - There were no chrome scripts on these cars for trim level. The way to tell the trim level is the brightwork around the windows and spears on side of the fenders (featured on Custom, missing on DeLuxe) as pointed out by many gentlemen on this thread. Below you see my D24 Custom. Pay attention to mentioned bright work...

Looks like your transmission input shaft is for non-fluid drive car. Thus I suppose the one who did the assembly decided to solve the issue by ditching the fluid drive. I installed the R10 last winter (year ago), but I decided to swap the input shaft from my original 3-speed to the OD transmission. That way I get to keep the fliud drive and no need to modify drive shaft lenght either. I am happy with combo fluid drive+R10 OD. You may look up the build thread; http://p15-d24.com/topic/30333-does-1953-savoy-transmission-fit-to-d24-yes-it-does/

Thanks Tim, My D24 is Custom trim, knobs on the dash are light brown or tan what's-u-call-it... After some google-search I found the below photo, I suppose that there is the original style?

Speaking of correct design knobs; What should the wiper control knob of a D24 look like? the knob is located on the top of the dash board right behind the windshield divider bar, but I guess I've never seen a correct one... On my car the knob was replaced by round chromed one before I bought the car.

Oh my GOSH - today it happened AGAIN! Only even worse burned this time! Not sure if it's Elvis any more... May be Ray Charles withouta shades? ...as the day grew older it only got WORSE: ...in the afternoon A BLONDE Jerry Lee Lewis appered on my TART!

...well, obviously the ghost of Elvis is vee..ry active on his anniversary... I'd say a miracle is even BIGGER MIRACLE as it has happened to others as well?!?!

Today, in the morning, when I was having my breakfast... I looked down to my toast... ...behold!

Marc, That manual was written by the engineers who designed the engine, thus I trust it the best recommendation. period. Acc. to my experience these engines burn and leak the multigrade syntethic oils, have not seen any advantages using modern high tech oils in these. The most important advise I've been told by an old mechanic; the valve guide top side lubrication in the flathead engines rely on vaporization of mineral oil. cheers, Pekka

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 2015 for all you good folks & Fellows at the p15-d24! Here I share the high point of my 2014; In June we participated a summer run of the Historic Car Club of Finland, the summer run was arranged by my home club at the old home town, Kokkola at the west coast. In below photo we are cruising in the old part of the town, wooden houses built in early 1800's and cobble stone streets...

Thanks Donald, I'd be very satisfied with 3,714:1 ratio. Hopefully will have some spare time after the Xmas days to take it apart and check the condition of the gears. /Unkka

Well, Yes, I thought that too, but would they use that low number of teeth on pinion? Only 7 teeth...???

Tonight we drove to the old home town and I finally had chance to take a look at the 1954 rear axle as planned... Apart from the cast numbers, the only stamped numbers I found on the 3rd member housing were as follows: 7 26 Small stamped numbers, low values, too... I would not expect the number of teeth were that low? Do they make any sense to you?