Uncle-Pekka

Hmm, how do I remove "the one which does not allow easy removal"? I need to have them both out to figure the difference or similarity...right? The problem is, I do not have the OD parking brake. The unit came from salvage without any auxiliaries. Also the OD unit brake drum was worn out and cracked. When I compare the universal joint flanges (both good) they seem to be the same. Thus I wonder, could I modify the original D24 parking brake drum to fit on the OD unit? EDIT: Ed, I just re-discovered your thread "Overdrive up-grade". We touched the park brake difference briefly there - you suggested the problem could be overcome by using the OD unit brake drum. If, however, the OD drum is not available - any other way? Would you by any chance have photos of the 3-speed vs. OD brake drums to learn the difference? Cheers, Pekka

This thread has hibernated a long time - just because so has my OD project. However, TODAY i pulled the 3-speed and the transmissions are now on garage floor side by side. Here's a photo a minute prior to pulling the 3-speed, inside the car with the front floor off. TWO PROBLEMS raised: The original box input shaft will not pull out -. as discussed in 2012, I need to swap my original input shaft to replace the newer Savoy short shaft. The input shaft of the Savoy unit came out with the bearing just by removing the 3 screws of the brg retainer. The fliud drive 3-speed unit input shaft only moves 3-4mm out and then stops. Can it be some synchro ring to fall in wrong position and stop it? GOOD ADVICE INVITED! - please! Another problem: parking brake assy is located further back on the OD unit. How can I mount the D24 brake drum and shoe assy behind OD unit? Some adapters needed? (I have a small lather to make adapter parts...) thanks, Pekka

Blackwalls on stock trucks, thin white stripe on 60's & 70's cars, wide whites on 30's, 40' & 50's cars could be rough rule of a thumb... Then again, depeds on the style the car is build or customized. Early 60's muscle car with Nascar style steel wheels looks great agressive with blackwalls. I am in the same party with Deathbound, me I neither like raised white letter on anything. Matter of opinion, of course.

The original rims of 1948 D24 are good for tubeless, they have the safety rim feature - You may even check it and read it on the owners manual. When I replaced the dry rotted bias ply tires by tubeless radials on my D24, I merely sanded and painted the rims. Tubeless type valve seat fits tight on the original hole on the rim. No any problems ever since. Besides, in case you really want to gamble your safety, put inner tubes inside tubeless type radials. I have experienced flat on 55mph with that kind of setup (assembled by previous owner), Definetely never will allow that set on any of my cars ever. Inner surface of the tubeless tire slowly rubs the tube resulting large hole blow of the tube. Air escapes in fraction of second because blown tube leaves valve hole of the rim open. This is exactly the reason why tubeless are superior in safety, they leak slow, giving driver time to stop safely. Tubes blow.

However, I do prefer nicely worn (original) paint to fresh sprayed shiny finish. I was so fortunate to find this 1951 Nash from Phoenix AZ. The Arizona sun and time has resulted perfect patina, which no paint job can ever match (IMO). on the other side of the coin: Should this be painted over, there's no way ever to get the original back...

...and THIS here in below... is a PLASTIC scale 1/24 model... ... these days, you can't even trust the rust!

Patina or sanded paint in below photo? [/url] Watch the video and guess again... https://vusay.com/yt/3XjOcmOv6MY

Happy New Year to all you good people! It's only 5hrs, 2 mins to go here in Finland. My resolution this year will be get my D24 finally back on the road in June 2014. It's coming together nice, but slow. Body and outside trim is completed now, interior needs some work still. I installed lowering blocks couple of months ago. Cheers, Pekka

Kiitos, Gregg! Hyvää Uutta Vuotta!

Merry Xmas to the truckers... ...and to regular people as well;

Well, I picked all the MoPars for this forum out of the set published... only three mopars there. The fourth, well, it's the best photograph of them all. The compose of that picture is like a masterpiece painting. The car is 1947 Stu Starlight and obviously a lot of miles travelled by that time already - a road veteran. I figured there would be room for an orphan on this forum, after all, it's Christmas time.

Photographs by Charlie Beesley, found at Hemming's web pages: "A brand-new, first-year 1926 Imperial 80 roadster crests a hill somewhere in Michigan"

Headline of auction news: "100% of the Chryslers were crushed, 100% of the Oldsmobiles were saved" 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4d Sed, 6-cyl, 3-spd, to crush $325 5 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook 2d Sed, to crush $325 6 1954 Plymouth Belvedere 4d Sed, Without drivetrain, to crush $325 5 1955 Plymouth Savoy 4d Sed, V-8, to crush $325 4 1959 Plymouth Belvedere 4d Sed, V-8, to crush $325 5 1959 Plymouth Plaza 2d Sed, to crush $325 5 1959 Plymouth Savoy 4d Sed, to crush $325 5 1959 Plymouth Fury 4d Sed, to crush $325 5 1972 Plymouth Satellite 4d Sed, to crush $325 5 $330 would have saved any of the above 50's Plym's... Not too much asked? Well, I know; the towing, no room to keep them... Still. Once they've been crushed, no return ever. Edit: I may be more surprised for the fate of the below Chebbies, than above Plym's, Considering the money the poor condition 50's Chevy project cars bring at eBay ... 1946 Chevrolet Fleetmaster 4d Sed, to crush $325 6 1949 Chevrolet 3100 2d PU, $350 6 1949 Chevrolet Styleline 4d Sed, Without drivetrain, to crush $325 6 1950 Chevrolet Deluxe 4d Sed, to crush $325 6 1952 Chevrolet Styleline 4d Sed, to crush $325 6 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air 4d Sed, $350 4 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air 4d Sed, to crush, 6-cyl $325 6 1954 Chevrolet Deluxe 210 4d Sed, to crush $325 6 1956 Chevrolet 210 4d Sed, to crush $325 6 -Sy.dpuf

My eyes are getting weak... Could not spot a single P15 in this pic. Many Fords... also GM's. One '48 DeSoto clearly seen. Please circle the ones you spotted - You can do it easily by MS Paint, for example.

I put back the bumpers on mine after the paint job some months ago. I agree with Niel and Bill, the brackets seem to be some kind of spring steel, they tend to bounce off quite much (ca. 2-3"). you have to leave the bumper bolts loose and force the bracket arms in place before tightening the entire assembly. Requires some alignment work as well. It may be desperate job to try alone. When you have a mate to help, it's easier, yet still requires force.

Agree! LWB Soto S11 cars are handsome boats. Also suburban with factory roof rack and tailgate would be more than welcome in my garage.

Hi Ed, Interesting thread just on time. I scored a 1953 Savoy OD last year. During the winter I've gathered the electric stuff (solenoid, relay, kickdown sw.). Now I counted to have everything but the mech. cable & lever. Only I've had busy summer in a good way (scored a summer cottage and a 1960 biscayne), thus had not much time with the D24 (sort of a pity, though) Now I got to learn all the tricks by following your project. Please tell more of the differences in the parking brake - My OD tranny came without the brake, only the shaft end flange left. Best of luck with the project, good going so far. Pekka

??? Manual choke is an air intake butterfly valve incorporated to throttle linkage. The 40's Mopar hand throttle cable is merely an extension to the pedal. Not much use for cold start. Most european cars had manual choke until end of 70's. In spite of this I never came a cross with hand throttle in an european car. Manual choke cannot be used to maintain steady cruising speed on hiway driving - just a plenty of smoke due to rich mixture.

Do I avoid highways...? Hell no, I'm the regular roadblock whereever! Doing steady 45 on the fast lane is my kick (up onto a%%).

Mine is as Tim said: stabilizer bar in the front and the panhard rod in the rear. Most likely the panhard rod makes it handle so well. Much better than other same era cars I've driven.

My d24 has stabilizer bars, I suppose they were std accessories... Makes big difference in driving.

Compared to average spending on daily drivers of today, I've saved a fortune so far. Still I cannot afford a decent garage in town, let alone a mansion... Wht went wrong... Also my bourbon costs less than boss mans cognac (my only comfort it tastes better)

Wayfarer let me pour you one... Would you care for bourbon? Amusing thread, but I see the point... Cheers fellows, Unkka

Folks, I am looking to buy a car located in Moultrie, GA, and have it hauled to Finland by hired help. It started well, but lately there has been problems, the sellers phone was disconnected and he contacted me after three days of silence via email. He told the phone operator has problems and he's currently buying a new phone and service... Have not paid him anything yet, but hiring a freight forwarder will cost me big bucks even if the deal falls through and there will be no car to pick up. If any of you fellows would have possibility to somehow check that the seller is genuine... would be worth much for me... I know you will advice me to walk away from it, but the car is a find and price is fair. If I would be smart enough to walk away from situations, I would not be here (read: I would have not got the Dodge D24 imported in the first place...) -Uncle-Pekka

Mark, Hold u'r Horses! This is a nostalgic salvage yard thread, do not hi-jack it for your selfish purposes /Pekka