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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Hey, whatever it takes... Necessity is the Mother of invention, right?
  2. Maybe you just need some of this? They claim it's "The miracle sealer that stops leaks immediately!"
  3. WOW! Good catch. That could have been disastrous. Merle
  4. Here are a couple of scans from my service manual. If you can read the breakdown below the exploded view of the front cylinder, you will see the rear piston is referenced "Large"
  5. Don, I think you're just wishing you were an "AARP Stud". I believe you are thinking about ARP, or Automotive Racing Products at http://www.arp-bolts.com/ Merle
  6. Actually, you've got it backwards. On the trucks, the twin cylinder setup is on the rear wheels, and the single (double sided) cylinder is on the fronts, but one piston is larger on those too. It's possible that the T-bird brakes just don't have the stopping power needed, but proper functionality should be checked first. Merle
  7. Yup, those are similar to the lower U-bolt brackets on my 3/4 ton. Looks like it's the same setup. Merle
  8. Tim, I think you meant the Honda CBX. It and the Gold Wings are the only 6 cylinder bikes made by Honda. The 1500cc Gold Wings used 2 carburetors, but as I recall they worked as a primary/secondary setup. And the 1800cc version is fuel injected, which is getting off the topic... Or is it? Has anyone made a fuel injection setup for a Mopar Flattie? Merle
  9. If you have your ground cable connected to the axle tube, and you're welding to the axle tube, why would the electricity "arc through the bearings"? If you have the ground clamp on the frame, and you're welding on the axle tube, that would be a different story. They the electricity would have to find a path through the springs and shackles, or through the drive line to get to the frame. Even so, you'd probably be better off fabricating some kind of bracket that you can clamp to the axle tube for a lower shock mount. Merle
  10. Syncronizing multiple carbs on a motorcycle is a piece of cake. You either need a vaccume gauge for each carb, or a set of carb sticks. (mercury tubes) You need a vaccume tap in the manifold between each carb and the intake port. Then just adjust the idle speed screws to get the vaccume epual for each carb. That would be an interesting modification. I do have a spare set of carbs for a Honda 650 NIghthawk. Hmm.......... Merle
  11. Not sure how the 1 Ton frame differs from my 3/4 Ton truck, but you could probably fabricate the upper mounts fairly easily. The lower mount may be a different story. It is part of the lower spring/axle U-bolt bracket. Maybe you could find a couple from a disassembled 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck. Is the axle diameter and U-bolts the same size between them? Here are pics from my truck. Merle
  12. Those alternators in the generator shell were discussed here a while back, or it may have been over on the car side. I don't remember the name of the name either, but I remember it being quite pricey. As for the original booster question... There has been talk about those here before too. I just don't have any details on them. Merle
  13. Larger brake lines will only allow more flow without restriction, but a brake system is a low flow system, so I don't believe that will help. I do agree with Brad on the cylinder size thing, though. The 66 T Bird no doubt had power brakes which can account for higher line pressure. So it's possible that they are using a smaller diameter piston in the wheel cylinders. This would account for less force being applied at your lower pressure manual brake system. That or they're just out of adjustment and not applying correctly. Merle
  14. Now that's my kind of truck I LOVE IT
  15. As close as I can measure without removing the Gen, it's 6 1/8" to the inside of the ears and 6 5/8" to the outside. Merle
  16. I agree with Dave. Those Acme thread bolts are very hard to come by. I found some bolts at Restoration Specialities & Supplies, but only a few. Then I did some junk yard scrounging and hit the jackpot. Now I have a parts truck that I'm slowly disassembling. I may be able to come up with some for you. However, if you need the clips and bolts check with your hardware store again. They usually have speed nuts or J-nuts for normal hardware. You could then use regular bolts. Merle
  17. It would probably work if you can find the hub to match it. The pulley on my truck is a one piece unit that goes onto the crank as you mention. The two holes you see are for the puller. I don't know if there are any differences with the crank hub style or size, but if you can find a hub that'll fit the crank I think you'll be in business. Merle
  18. True, Greg. But I believe the real reason that the holes are there is for removal of the casting form/sand when the blocks are made. And because the plugs are the weak point, if the coolant freezes they tend to pop out first, thus creating the name. Although if it freezes hard enough it can still crack the block. Merle
  19. Tony, It looks like the side rails sit on top of the wood, so wouldn't you want the rear piece to match that? I was thinking that making it flush with the wood surface would make a nice clean finish, but I'd try to make it match the sides. Merle
  20. Thanks Ed. That's a nice lookin' truck. Looks like somethin' other than a flattie under the hood, and I don't care for that front bumper. But otherwise... SWEEEEEET Merle
  21. If you go that route, use the green Sleeve and Seal Retainer Loctite. It bonds much harder than the blue or red thread locker. Just my opinion, Merle
  22. Why won't there be room for the engine fan? Are you moving the radiator back? Or will the compressor be in the way? Merle
  23. Looks like a nice lookin' Pilot-House truck behind that chopped smoothie. ANy more picks of the truck?
  24. I don't know how prevalent they were in the trucks back then. I know that my '50 3/4 ton truck has Fluid Drive with a 4 speed. I can't wait to get it completed enough to try it out on the road. Merle
  25. Distilled water is devoid of any minerals which can cause deposits in your cooling system. It is the best water to use. This is also true for batteries. In the Volvo Construction Equipment that I work with they have specific water specs for mixing with their coolant, although I don't know of anyone who has tested their water to see if it meets the specs. Merle
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