Merle Coggins

This is about all I could find on the can. But is also says it "restores life to "O"rings and rubber seals." It also shows their "proof" that it is the best penetrating catalyst. They have you spray some into a Styrofoam cup and watch how fast it'll eat through it. If I ever have a bolt stuck tight in Styrofoam this will be the first stuff I'll use. Actually, the stuff works pretty well. We have cans of it all over the shop. In fact I grabbed this one from our supply shelf. Merle

I use the ratchet type stands all the time and have never had a problem with them. Sounds like you didn't have them locked in properly.

I remembered it this morning, so I threw one of the rims in the back of my pickup this morning. Here's 3 on this one. I'll work on getting 'em off today. Send me a PM with your shipping address. Merle

The truck trannies don't have any syncros. At least not until the mid 50's, as I understand it. I haven't driven my truck around much yet, at least not enough to test my shift quality, but it's usually just a matter of learning the correct technique. It may be a double clutch, or just learning to better match the engine speed to the tail shaft speed. I know I've shown this pic before... it is from one of my "test drive" sessions around the yard. But like I said, I didn't really take it through the gears.

I'll try to remember to look when I get home. (won't be 'til late tonight) I think that a couple of the wheels on my parts truck have a couple of clips each. One has all the clips, so I don't want to disturb that one. And the 4th one, as I recall, looks like a Ford passenger car rim. Merle

Do you have gas flow out of the line at the fuel pump? If the line is full of air the pump may not be able get primed. Or the line may be plugged. Try to put air into the tank (low pressure) to bleed the fuel line up to the pump, then try it again. Or if the line is plugged, try blowing air from the pump end back into the tank. You may have some rust plugging the end inside the tank. Merle

It's a possibility. How do they come off? Are they riveted on? Merle

That's worse than mine were. By the way, where's that truck? The lower grill bar looks to be in MUCH better condition than mine. Merle

Lookin' good Dave.

I jealous that you can even do a test like that. I can't wait to be able to drive mine around. Got a bit of work to do yet. Keep it up, Merle

Yup, same thing here. I ground off the rivets from the inside and drove them out. Then you have to find all the spot welds that hold the inner plate to the fender and drill them out. I then made up new support plates, but before reassembly I cleaned up the metal on the inside of the fender and coated it with POR15. I then used liberal amounts of POR15 seam sealer paste between the fender and support plate and reassembled that area with carriage bolts. Once the seam sealer set up, and the plate was bonded fairly well to the fender, I removed the bolts and smoothed up the outer surface with body filler, then reinstalled the bolts. So far no cracks. I'm curious as to what is the correct hardware for the lower rear bolt? My front clip was held on with bailing wire and misc. mismatched hardware when I got the truck. Someone got a photo of this area on a complete truck? Merle

We're pullin' for ya Pete.

You didn't post it on the wrong board. After all, we're all truck guys over there.

Sure could use some of that Dihydrogen Monoxide around here. My lawn is drying up. Just not this weekend while I'm out teaching motorcycle courses. I'd rather not have that nasty Dihydrogen Monoxide dumped on me while I stand out in a parking lot with a bunch of rookie motorcyclist wannabees.

The lights that I got at Farm & Fleet were normally $29.99, but were on sale for $19.99 at the time. The two lights are on a bracket that is attached to the stand with a single thumb screw, so they can be taken off quite easily for setting on the floor. And you can switch them off independantly if you only want one lit. I agree that they do run hot and tend to cast shadows. This is why I got them higher up to help eliminate this problem. They also draw a fair amount of juice. With all 4 lit up and with my 4 1/2" grinder running on the same circuit, it'll pop the 15A breaker on my power strip. Then it gets dark. Merle

I've got a couple of those lights. I went to Farm & Fleet to get one, and found them on sale. I couldn't help but to get 2 for the sale price. I use them in my work space that I"ve managed to clear in our now unused paint booth at work. We rarely paint equipment here anymore, so it's been used for storage lately. I've got them sitting up high so they aren't shining right in your eyes. And with 2 of them it helps eliminate the shadows. When I finally get back to work on it this fall I think I'll add a third one in another corner for even better lighting.

Pretty cool stuff. Just wondering why the camera was sideways through most of it? Makes it difficult to watch.

I concur whole heartedly with Mr. Coatney. Boiled peanuts are not for me.

I remember I had a temporary stereo in one of my trucks once, and left the antenna laying up on the dash. It seemed to work fine. So I would guess you could hide it just about anywhere. You may not get great reception from weaker signals, but unless you're running way up north, or out west where stations are few and far between, it'll probably work out OK. Does anyone make antenna's that would stick to the windshield like GM cars used to use? I know their's was between the glass, but if it was just stuck to the inside of the glass, wouldn't that work too? Merle

That's different. Looks like it might be on a late model Ford F350 or F450 chassis. Some people just have way too much time and money and need to find ways to spend it.

Mario, You could always lay down a rubber mat if you need to haul anything. It is a very nice looking bed. I'd hate to scratch it too.

Or you get a timing light with an advance adjustment. Then you can dial in 20 degrees on the light and you should see the "0" mark at full 20 degrees advance.

Do you have dimensions / pictures? Are they the same as the B-series panels? I may have a couple spares of those. Merle

The Truck-o-matic began in '53, the last year of the B series trucks. I don't know if it was the same M6 or not. Don Bunn was not real clear about that in his book, but he does reference it in the section about Truck-o-matics. Fluid Drive began in '50 and came with a 3 speed or 4 speed. (my '50 has FD and 4 speed)