Merle Coggins

That was pretty cool. I got a 98%. Missed one question. You can review the quiz when you're done. Click on the magnifying glass looking icon at the top. Once I saw my mistake I instantly realized my mistake. I knew better, I just didn't think it through. Merle

As Dennis says, the trucks don't have a start button to a solenoid. Instead the starter is engaged manually with a foot actuated lever. So the only to connect a jumper battery will power the entire system. Now, as for reversing the polarity. That WILL NOT reduce the voltage. I don't know where he learned that, but it is WRONG. Reversing the polarity through a battery can damage it severly, especially if connecting 12 volts to a 6 volt battery. I think you got lucky, Dennis. When jump starting a 6 volt, positive ground system with a 12 volt negative gound system, I highly reccomend connecting it only long enough for the engine to start, and don't let the vehicles touch. You should still connect + to + and - to -. And it most likely will create sparks, so connecting away from the battery is a very good idea. Best case would be to connect the Negitave jumper cable to the negative post on the battery or starter / starter solenoid, then have one person engage the starter while the other person touches the Positive jumper cable clamp to a good ground point away from the battery. This should cause the engine to crank quite fast and start easily. As soon as the engine starts, remove the Pos jumper cable. I have used this technique many times to start 12 volt machines with a 24 volt jumper pack. Merle

When I bought the parts for my 1950 engine (T172) I got the gasket for an external bypass setup, but my engine has the internal bypass. Mr. Bernbaum argued with me that I couldn't have a 1950 engine because they didn't start using the internal bypass until '51. Apparently I am an idiot and don't know what I'm looking at, according to him. I finally gave up and let him win the argument, but not until I got him to exchange my head gasket with the proper one. I've also run across this same thing when I tried to get a water pump at my local Checker Auto Parts. I had to go to a '51 listing to get the internal bypass pump. I have no reason to believe that my engine is not the original engine in this truck, but it seems confusing that everything lists up thru '50 has external bypass and '51 and up are internal, yet my '50 is internal. Also, the 1950 B2C parts truck that I have also has the internal bypass setup. Apparently the trucks switched to internal bypass before the cars did, but because there are more cars out there than trucks, the public opinion is that they didn't change until '51. That's my opinion anyway. Kevin, Take a close look at the front of your head, just behind the water pump. If the front edge of the head is straight, you need the external bypass setup and will need to find the rest of the pieces and connect it all up again. If there is a bump up there, you have internal bypass and you possibly have the wrong water pump and thermostat housing. A T306 engine would be '51-'54 (I think) and would probably be the internal bypass setup. Does that help, or confuse more? Merle

Kevin, It looks like you have an external bypass system and as such you need to find the missing piece as shown in Reg's picture. It looks, to me, that someone removed it and plugged the holes. You can't just put on an internal by-pass water pump and convert it because there is a passage through the block into the head on that setup. You can tell an engine that has the internal passage because there's a small bump at the front of the head. Allen, The battery in the trucks should be under the floor, in front of the seat. There is supposed to be a battery tray attached to the outside of the frame and a rectangular access cover in the floor (under your left foot as you sit in the seat). But I'm sure it's possible to mount the battery under the hood if necessary. As for being too far from the starter... If you use good quality battery cables that are large enough (at least 0 gauge) you should be OK. Many drag racers put the battery in the trunk for weight transfer. Here's a picture of my battery location without the cab in place to hide it. Merle

Check with Vintage Power Wagons. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/

Positive to Positive... Negative to Negative The positive ground thing means nothing to the battery

I was just looking through my B-2 Series Shop Manual and it looks like the 3 speeds (column shift or floor shift) are syncronized, but the 4 speeds are not. Maybe that changed later on? Merle

Not sure when they began using syncronized transmissions in the trucks, but there's a good chance that yours is not. Syncronization only helps with upshifts and down shifts. If you are having problems getting it into gear at a stop, you may have a clutch issue. Also, 1st gear in the truck transmissions is a granny low and wouldn't be used normally when pulling away from a stop. Merle

Just because you have a Fluid Drive doesn't mean it'll shift automatically. That's a feature of the M6 Gyro-matic (semi-automatic) transmission. You probably have a normal 3 speed behind your Fluid Drive. You will still have to shift through the gears manually.

My cousin and her husband have it now. I'm not sure if they are still milking cows anymore, but they have the farm. Merle

That's what is stated in my truck manual for regular maintenance. Every 20,000 miles, remove the plug, inject 1/2 oz. of grease with a low pressure gun, reinstall plug. Merle

I've been hearing that if that happens, they'll bump up the Broncos / Packers game by 30 minutes to 1 hour. (depends on who you're listening to) I don't know if that'll help with the traffic situation much, but it might. Sounds like a good night to sit at home and watch the game(s). I know that's where I'll be. "GO PACKERS" Merle

You'd go through a lot of clutches that way. I think I'd run Dodges too. But then again, I'm kinda of partial.

A week or so ago I posted about a '47 Dodge truck that my Grandfather had on the farm. Well my Father found this picture of it and sent it to me. It's not exactly the center of attention in this photo, but there it is none the less. Apparently they had built taller sides for the bed for hauling cattle. It looks like it was in transition at the time this photo was taken. From information on the back of the picture, the car in the foreground is my Uncle's "new" '49 Plymouth and because the new silo is up it is assumed that the picture was taken after 1952. This is the farm that I grew up on and it is interesting seeing the barn from that time. There are a few things in that photo that are different now.

Are any of our California members effected by the wild fires out there? I suppose if they are, they won't have access to a computer to let us know. For those in the wake of these blazes, I wish you all Godspeed. Merle

Are any of our California members effected by the wild fires out there? I suppose if they are, they won't have access to a computer to let us know. For those in the wake of these blazes, I wish you all Godspeed. Merle

The technique that David mentioned is pretty much how I learned to install core plugs, and is how I still do it to this day. I also use some sealant, usually #9 Permetex called "Tack and Seal" It stays flexible and is quite sticky. It is my favorite gasket goop. Merle

I don't have Byron's email handy today, but I believe he said it is a '41 and that his Father used this truck before the war.

You are correct, sir. That would be the capillary tube for the temp gauge, and you should be able to pick up a generic temp gauge and install it for now. Merle

I had never heard of vacuum actuated brakes until now. Sounds rather interesting. Anyone know how they actually worked? I suppose on a downhill grade with heavy engine braking the vacuum would be plentiful unless, like Byron says, the engine would die. Then HOLD ON!!! I like the log brake idea. Necessity is the mother of invention, right? Ed, how do you see any stainless trim in that photo? Merle

I got this picture today from Byron (Byronb3b). I thought it was pretty cool and thought you guys might appreciate it as well. So I am posting it here for Byron. I believe he said it is a '41 Dodge that his Father drove for a lumber company in Washington. I'll let Byron chime in with further details. That's a pretty big load of logs. Must have been fun coming down out of the mountains.

Good point, GT. The thrust block, I believe, is not permanetly attached inside the diff. If you are trying to set up the bearing on one side without the other axle in place, you will push the block over and can't get the bearing tight. You need tension on both sides of the thrust block to center it, then set up both bearings together. If both axles are in place and you can't get the bearings set, then I'm afraid you don't have much choice but to address the thrust block in the diff. Merle

The shims behind the backing plate are for adjusting the bearings. When you remove the shims, it pushes the bearing cup (outer race) tighter onto the cone to reduce the end play. If all of your shims are removed and there is still end play (loose bearing) than the thrust block in the differential is worn. The thrust block sits between the side gears in the differential and is used to position the axle shaft and allow the axle bearing preload to be set. If the block is worn, then the axle can retreat further into the diff and you will run out of adjustment. If you can find some narrow shims to press the bearing cup further into the housing, you may be able to achieve the proper bearing adjustment, but you may find other problems, as the axle shaft is set further into the axle, which will set the brake drums tighter against the backing plate, etc. Also, are you sure your bearings are in good shape? A worn bearing may be causing the same symptom. Merle

The fluid drive is a fluid coupler between the crankshaft and the clutch. It is sort of like a self contained torque convertor, but not exactly because there's no stator for torque reduction as there is in a torque convertor. If it's working properly you can put the trans in gear and let the clutch out while holding the brakes (assuming they work) and the truck won't move. Then if you release the brakes and feed some throttle, off you go. Your problem may be a fluid level problem. I would recommend changing the fluid. Go to a local farm supply store and get 2 gallons of Universal Tractor Hydraulic fluid ISO 32 grade. Now remove the cover at the bottom of the bell housing and turn the engine over until the plug on the fluid drive is at the bottom. Pull the plug and drain the fluid. It will probably drain slow, so allow it to drain for an hour or better. Now remove the floor boards to gain access to the top of the bell housing. At around the 1 O'clock position you'll find a round cap that may be labeled "Oil Fill". Remove that cap and crank your engine over until you can see the drain hole through the hole in the bell housing, it is now the fill hole. Get youself a long nose funnel that will fit into the fill hole and begin adding oil slowly. Again it will take time to refill it. You'll add oil until it appears full, then wait for it to go down and repeat. Eventually it won't take anymore oil. It should take between 1 1/2 and 2 gallons. Now you have to get the plug back in without dropping it. A magnetic socket or a piece of paper around the head of the plug to make it fit tightly in the socket will help. If your fluid drive coupling is low on oil, it may have a bad seal. But once you get the lower bell housing cover off, you'll be able to see the clutch and such. Look for evidence of oil leaking between the F/D housing and the "flywheel" where the clutch bolts up to. And you asked about the shift pattern... Which transmission do you have? Column shift 3 speed, floor shift 3 speed, or floor shift 4 speed? Merle