Merle Coggins

Maybe it's because you were on the other side of the one I was refering to earlier.

Your engine is currently out of the truck, yes? It going to depend on how much your allignment pins protrude from the block. Recently I was able to remove a bell housing from an engine without removing the clutch/flywheel. Once we got the bolts out it came off of the pins and we could lift if up over the top of the flywheel. If the pins cause a clearance issue, try knocking them into the block far enough for installation. Then once you have the bolts started, drive them back into place and tighten the bolts. If your engine is in the truck, this would be nearly impossible, but on a bench or engine stand, I believe it's quite possible. Merle

I've got a 360 out of a '75 Dodge truck. I was told it ran before removal, but needed carb work. Other than that I don't know much about it. However, unless he's close to SE Wisconsin, it's probably not feasable for him. Merle

Don, it sounds like you've had some cheesy jobs in the past.

Yea, we just go ditch hopping for fun. :p

OUCH!!!!!!!!!! That'll ruin your day.

Awe shucks... and I was going to autograph it first.

Shall we send you some? We've got plenty.

That's been a running joke amungst myself and one of my co-workers. It seems that any time we install a distributor we get it in 180 degrees off. We laugh that when we put a distributor in, we should just automatically pull it out and turn it 180 first, before attempting to start the engine. It a pretty easy mistake to make. Good to hear that you got it running. Merle

When I recently swapped out the diff in my truck with one I got from Normspeed ('50 Plymouth?) I changed out the pinion seal for added security. The old seal had has a "CR" and "663602" stamped into it. I called my local Napa and gave them that number as a Chicago Rawhide number. They crossed it with no problem and I had a seal the next day. It was a thinner, newer style seal, but it fit perfectly. Unfortunetly I don't have the Napa number handy anymore. But if you give them the CR 663602 number, they'll be able to cross it for you. Merle

Thanks guys, I'm glad I was able to help you all. Ed, I'm looking at the possibility of doing my previously posponed Eau Claire trip next week. I'll keep you posted. Maybe you'll have a nice Flathead just in time for Christmas. Merle

Sounds like your timing is off. Maybe by 180 degrees.

The hammer's not for beatin' on the drum or axle shaft. It's for wackin' the knocker wrench that comes with the puller. Ain't that how the pullers are designed to be used?

A 4 or 5 lb hammer would have more punch.

I've seen a couple of those. (not in person however) As I recall, they were a special build for the US Postal Service as mail delivery vehicles. Merle

Since pistons for these engines are available up to .080" or .090" oversize, I wouldn't be too concerned at .060" over.

Purolator L20700 = Baldwin P73 Or in a Wix there are two options for the L20700 Purolator. 51071 for a "Full Flow", and 51080 for "Part Flow". And of course these would be 1071 and 1080 at Napa. And my trusty Wix catalog lists these two numbers as; 51071 Chrysler, Dodge, (57-59 Daf Trucks (Full Flow) Height 4.218, O.D 3.367, I.D. .578 top - .703 bottom 51080 A-C, Case, DeSoto, Dodge (46-56), Herculese, M/F, Plymouth (53-56) Height 4.218, O.D. 3.367, I.D. .578 top - .703 bottom. I kind of get the felling that there were a few different filter manufacturers used back then. I also wonder if some of these filters were aftermarket add ons. When I got my truck it had no filter, and no evidence that there ever was one. I found my Deluxe filter on ebay and when it came it had a small metal canister type element that didn't fit correctly. It was also full of sludge. I fell sorry for the engine it came off of. Once I got it cleaned up, I found the stamping in the cover that showed the make and replacement cartridge as JC. Then using my trusty catalogs I was able to find the correct Napa filter (1011 sock type) It fit perfectly. Merle

I did a little browsing through the Master Interchange listings in my Wix Filter Catalog. I found 3 P40 listings. One was a multi-tube air filter from Farr. One was a Purolator for Schramm Compressors and has similar dimentions, but with a 1" ID which wouldn't seem correct. The third was from Baldwin and crosses to a Wix 51010 (Napa Gold 1010) It would be 4.375" high, 3.718" O.D., and .553" I.D. I then checked in my Baldwin catalog and have determined that the P40 is still a good number with them. Also in my searching, I found your Fram C4 filter. It would cross to a Wix 51006, or Napa Gold 1006, or Baldwin P41 The filter on my engine is from Deluxe and uses a JC element. This crosses to Wix 51011, or Napa Gold 1011, or Baldwin JC405. This is a sock type element whereas your P40 and C4 filters should be metal canister type elements. Does this help? Merle

Only unusual for those of us not in the "Land Down Under". I think the Aussie Ute's are pretty cool. Nice find, Pete. Welcome aboard. Merle

Here's a couple more Lucky B*****D's http://www.czabe.com/mediaclips/index.shtml?a=showclip&id=880 http://www.czabe.com/mediaclips/index.shtml?a=showclip&id=877

And when it does fail, it's "Lifetime" is over and so is the warranty.

Lookin' good Stef. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with it when it's done.

It will if the truck also has Fluid Drive. The crank flange needs to have 8 holes to attach the Fluid Drive coupling. A standard clutch engine would only have 4 holes. (or so I've heard). I do know my truck engine has the 8 hole crank in it's 218 CID engine, and it has Fluid Drive.

I usually just connect my timing light and try to dial it in close while cranking the engine over, but static timing would probably help shorten the startup procedure by getting the timing closer to start with. I don't have the specs on your car, but my truck manual specs TDC for the timing spec. You basically set your engine to the timing spec position and then, using a continuity tester between the dist - coil wire and ground, set the distributor to the position where the points just open. Certainly dymanic or "road" timing is still recommended after it's running, but your friend is right in trying to set the static timing to assist with the first start-up. So... the question still remains..."what is the timing spec for his P15?"