Merle Coggins

Ah Hah!!! That's what I suspected. Now... What are the circles for? And did these trucks come with a jack? And if so, where would it stow?

E-85 in NOT a reccomended fuel in my '06 F150. You need to check your operator's manual to see if you have a "Flex Fuel" vehicle.

I don't have a choice around here but to run 10% ethanol blend. It's mandatory 'round here for emissions. I don't notice any difference in any of my vehicles, but some claim that there's a significant difference in mileage if they drive 30-40 miles out of the regulated counties to get "regular" gas. Also, like Ed says, the E-85 is 85% Ethanol and 15% gas. The alcohol that you ran in your go-carts was probably Methanol. That's a different alcohol and isn't as corrosive.

When I pulled my trans out, during engine removal, I ended up pulling the top cover, shift lever and all. There are 6 bolts and it lifts right off. Then cover the top with something to keep debris out. Once the cab is on, the hole in the floor is big enough to reinstall the cover. The lever may come out of the cover, but I don't know how to do it. My shop manual doesn't show it either. Merle

Why would you need to pull the pedals off to remove the trans? You must seperate the trans from the bell housing. Remove drive shaft, disconnect speedo cable, park brake and shift linkage, remove 4 bolts that attach it to the bell housing, and slide it back and out. I also had to raise up the front of my engine so that the park brake drum would clear the cross member, but mine is a Fluid Drive with the big 4 speed. If you tried to pull the bell housing with the trans, it'll never come off. The bell housing wraps in behind the flywheel. You either need to remove the flywheel to get the bell housing off, or be able to lift it up over the top of the flywheel. I can't think of any way you could do that with the trans attached. You will need to pull the pedals off before removing the engine. I pullled my engine with the bell housing attached. Just removed the pedals and master cylinder. I installed the engine and trans as one unit, but the cab was off at that time.

I don't know of any other places. That's the aproximate location where I found mine too. That's not my truck, nor my picture. As I said, I borrowed it from the DPETCA site. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm I recall that Don Bunn mentioned another location for the serial number in his book, but I'd have to read through it again to find it, and I don't have it handy. This is a very handy book to have if your working on a B Series Dodge truck.

I was going through my camera today and came across this shot of a Culvers sign that I took this past summer. I wonder what Double Strawberry Chicken Salad ice cream tastes like? I was afraid to try it.

Over this past weekend I got quite a bit of cleaning and sanding done on my cab. When I started sanding the floor, under the seat area, I was noticing the different shapes of the ribs in the floor panels. I understand that these ribs create stiffness in the panels, but there seems to be some very specific shapes to the stampings. Were there some special tools or options that would fit these areas? I was especially intrigued by the 'one corner rounded off'- square area with the "X" in the middle.

Clean up the left frame rail just ahead of the front axle. You should be able to find your serial number there. I borrowed this pic from the DPETCA site for reference. Then once you have the correct S/N go to http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php to decode it. A B-3 would be a '51 or '52 model but there should be another letter after that. "B", "C", "D", etc. "B" indicates 1/2 ton, "C" = 3/4 ton, and "D" = 1 ton. And "116" would be the wheel base in inches, which would usually indicate a 3/4 ton, except in the later Pilot-House years the 1/2 ton's were available in 116" wheel base. However, you seem to have a discrepency. It's possible that someone swapped the cabs, tag and all, at one time.

Yea, Norm. I liked how that last show hung in the trees like that. It sure was a beautiful site around here. The warmer weather coming will be nice, but once the snow melts again, it'll look ugly 'round here.

You guys don't know snow. I just cleared out close to a foot of snow out of my driveway, and my girlfriend's driveway, this morning. It snowed almost all day yesterday. It was all melting away pretty fast just before Christmas, but it's all nice and white again today. Merle

When I cleaned mine up before painting, I saw remnents of silver paint down near the pivots, and it looked like they may have been black up on the "in cab" parts. I just painted them all silver with the rest of the bell housing and etc. I may paint the upper portions black later on. Merle

I thought there was someone a while back that was looking to repop those. I sure would like to find one also. Merle

My compliments on the calendar, Bob. Thanks Merle

Ed, I wouldn't be supprised if them telling you that you needed new ball joints was just a ploy to get more money out of you. They probably didn't even put it up on the rack. Just looked at the odometer and figured a truck with that mileage must need ball joints. Now when you go back there for tires and an allignment, you can give 'em hell for trying to rip you off. Merle

Since you guys seem to enjoy the holiday recipes, I'll share this one that I just received. JOSE CUERVO CHRISTMAS COOKIES 1 cup of water 1 tsp baking soda 1 cup of sugar 1 tsp salt 1 cup of brown sugar 4 large eggs 1 cup nuts 2 cups of dried fruit 1 bottle Jose Cuervo Tequila (Reg, you could probably substitute Vakka;) ) Sample the Cuervo to check quality. Take a large bowl, check the Cuervo again, to be sure it is of the highest quality, pour one level cup and drink. Turn on the electric mixer… Beat one cup of butter in a large fluffy bowl. Add one teaspoon of sugar. Beat again. At this point it's best to make sure the Cuervo is still OK, try another cup.. just in case. Turn off the mixerer thingy. Break 2 leggs and add to the bowl and chuck in the cup of dried fruit, Pick the frigging fruit off the floor. Mix on the turner. If the fried druit gets stuck in the beaterers just pry it loose with a drewscriver. Sample the Cuer vo to check for tonsisticity. Next, sift two cups of salt, or something. Who giveshz a hoot. Check the Jose Cuervo. Now shift the lemon juice and strain your nuts. Add one table. Add a spoon of sugar, or somefink. Whatever you can find. Greash the oven. Turn the cake tin 360 degrees and try not to fall over. Don't forget to beat off the turner. Finally, throw the bowl through the window, finish the Cose Juervo and make sure to put the stove in the dishwasher. Cherry Mistmas!

There's something familure about your pics.

As I recall it basically the same as brake line with inverted flare fittings. You could just get some 1/8" brake line and make up a new one. Or get some inverted flare fittings and route a good vaccume hose. Merle

Maybe it's because you were on the other side of the one I was refering to earlier.

Your engine is currently out of the truck, yes? It going to depend on how much your allignment pins protrude from the block. Recently I was able to remove a bell housing from an engine without removing the clutch/flywheel. Once we got the bolts out it came off of the pins and we could lift if up over the top of the flywheel. If the pins cause a clearance issue, try knocking them into the block far enough for installation. Then once you have the bolts started, drive them back into place and tighten the bolts. If your engine is in the truck, this would be nearly impossible, but on a bench or engine stand, I believe it's quite possible. Merle

I've got a 360 out of a '75 Dodge truck. I was told it ran before removal, but needed carb work. Other than that I don't know much about it. However, unless he's close to SE Wisconsin, it's probably not feasable for him. Merle

Don, it sounds like you've had some cheesy jobs in the past.

Yea, we just go ditch hopping for fun. :p

OUCH!!!!!!!!!! That'll ruin your day.

Awe shucks... and I was going to autograph it first.