Merle Coggins

I don't have Byron's email handy today, but I believe he said it is a '41 and that his Father used this truck before the war.

You are correct, sir. That would be the capillary tube for the temp gauge, and you should be able to pick up a generic temp gauge and install it for now. Merle

I had never heard of vacuum actuated brakes until now. Sounds rather interesting. Anyone know how they actually worked? I suppose on a downhill grade with heavy engine braking the vacuum would be plentiful unless, like Byron says, the engine would die. Then HOLD ON!!! I like the log brake idea. Necessity is the mother of invention, right? Ed, how do you see any stainless trim in that photo? Merle

I got this picture today from Byron (Byronb3b). I thought it was pretty cool and thought you guys might appreciate it as well. So I am posting it here for Byron. I believe he said it is a '41 Dodge that his Father drove for a lumber company in Washington. I'll let Byron chime in with further details. That's a pretty big load of logs. Must have been fun coming down out of the mountains.

Good point, GT. The thrust block, I believe, is not permanetly attached inside the diff. If you are trying to set up the bearing on one side without the other axle in place, you will push the block over and can't get the bearing tight. You need tension on both sides of the thrust block to center it, then set up both bearings together. If both axles are in place and you can't get the bearings set, then I'm afraid you don't have much choice but to address the thrust block in the diff. Merle

The shims behind the backing plate are for adjusting the bearings. When you remove the shims, it pushes the bearing cup (outer race) tighter onto the cone to reduce the end play. If all of your shims are removed and there is still end play (loose bearing) than the thrust block in the differential is worn. The thrust block sits between the side gears in the differential and is used to position the axle shaft and allow the axle bearing preload to be set. If the block is worn, then the axle can retreat further into the diff and you will run out of adjustment. If you can find some narrow shims to press the bearing cup further into the housing, you may be able to achieve the proper bearing adjustment, but you may find other problems, as the axle shaft is set further into the axle, which will set the brake drums tighter against the backing plate, etc. Also, are you sure your bearings are in good shape? A worn bearing may be causing the same symptom. Merle

The fluid drive is a fluid coupler between the crankshaft and the clutch. It is sort of like a self contained torque convertor, but not exactly because there's no stator for torque reduction as there is in a torque convertor. If it's working properly you can put the trans in gear and let the clutch out while holding the brakes (assuming they work) and the truck won't move. Then if you release the brakes and feed some throttle, off you go. Your problem may be a fluid level problem. I would recommend changing the fluid. Go to a local farm supply store and get 2 gallons of Universal Tractor Hydraulic fluid ISO 32 grade. Now remove the cover at the bottom of the bell housing and turn the engine over until the plug on the fluid drive is at the bottom. Pull the plug and drain the fluid. It will probably drain slow, so allow it to drain for an hour or better. Now remove the floor boards to gain access to the top of the bell housing. At around the 1 O'clock position you'll find a round cap that may be labeled "Oil Fill". Remove that cap and crank your engine over until you can see the drain hole through the hole in the bell housing, it is now the fill hole. Get youself a long nose funnel that will fit into the fill hole and begin adding oil slowly. Again it will take time to refill it. You'll add oil until it appears full, then wait for it to go down and repeat. Eventually it won't take anymore oil. It should take between 1 1/2 and 2 gallons. Now you have to get the plug back in without dropping it. A magnetic socket or a piece of paper around the head of the plug to make it fit tightly in the socket will help. If your fluid drive coupling is low on oil, it may have a bad seal. But once you get the lower bell housing cover off, you'll be able to see the clutch and such. Look for evidence of oil leaking between the F/D housing and the "flywheel" where the clutch bolts up to. And you asked about the shift pattern... Which transmission do you have? Column shift 3 speed, floor shift 3 speed, or floor shift 4 speed? Merle

Welcome Jerry Are you sure it's a 1/2 ton truck? The 1/2 ton trucks had 16" wheels as standard, and the 3/4 ton trucks used the 15" wheels. Check your model number. You say it's a '52, then reference (B1). B1 would be a '48 or '49 model year. Your '52 would be a B3 model. Then following that would be a "B", "C", "D", etc. B= 1/2 ton, C= 3/4 ton, D= 1 ton. If your serial number tag is missing, you can find your serial number stamped into the front left frame rail near the front spring hanger. Then plug your serial number into this site for a little more info on your truck. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php Again welcome to the Pilot-House world and this forum. Merle

I think you are referring to the Pine Cone. I think there's another family type restaurant across 26 from there, but I'm not familiar with that. Hwy 83 and I-94 has several choices as well.

If Feb 3rd is the Super Bowl, than Jan 26th is during the off week between the last playoff game and the Big Game. That'll work for me. I probably won't be following the playoffs too closely unless the Packers are still in it, but I do like to watch the Super Bowl. Any thoughts on location, Norm? You mention somewhere between here and Mad-town. Are you thinking about something around Johnson Creek, Watertown, or Lake Mills areas?

Many rear axle wheel bearing retaining nuts on later model trucks use an 8 sided nut. There are sockets available for them. If your local Napa deals with truck tools and parts, check with them. Or stop in a truck supply shop and ask around. Merle

Pretty wild, ain't it? Believe it or not that image doesn't move. It's all in you head/eyes. If you don't believe me, print it out on a piece of paper and look at it again.

From what I know, the Power Wagons use the 230 (23") engine with similar engine mounting system. The trans would be different because it will have a transfer case for the 4WD. Pilot-House trucks use the 218 engine in the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks and the 230 in the 1 tons. When you get to the 1 1/2 ton and up you'll get the larger block 236, 251, etc. Truck bell housings and transmissions are quite different than those in cars. Truck bell housings incorporate the rear engine mounts and also hold the brake M/C along with brake and clutch pedals. As for the different length input shafts... I thought that was only with Fluid Drive. Transmissions for Fluid Drive have a longer input shaft than those for clutch only setups. I don't understand why it's like that, but that's how I understand it. Merle

WOW!! If that's all you have to work with I'd say you'd need more than an engine. Where's the rest of it? I think the 201 and 230 would have the same basic block, and so would be a direct swap, more or less. The 236 would be a "big block" and would probably need some sort of modification to fit. Still, I don't think the transmission end would need the modifications. The engine would end sticking farther forward. (I think)

I would think that if you use the 230 engine all would be fine. What engine is in there now? You'd have to use your bell housing and etc., so the trans should bolt up the same. But then again I'm just speculating as I know nothing about your P10 Merle

Here's another eye test for you. Believe it or not, this image is not animated.

I thought I read somewhere that some of the truck engines used the Spitfire head, so it may be your original engine. The serial number indicates a truck engine. (starts with "T") And one correction to Tony's reply. Your Rod and Main journals have been ground .010" undersize and the cylinder bores .040" oversized. But unless you're going to do another rebuild you have nothing to worry about. As for starting an engine that's been sitting... I like to squirt some oil into the cylinders to help lubricate things and possible loosen up any surface rust on the cylinder walls. I prefer Marvel Mystery Oil, but that's just me. Merle

Oh yes, I know about I-65 too. I remember one trip. I left my parents house in light flurries. Up around LaFayette traffic got really slow and I noticed a salt truck in the right lane up ahead. After a while I was tired of following the crowd behind the salt truck, and listening to the salt bouncing off of my truck, so I got out in the left lane and worked my say past the truck. About the time my rear bumper passed the salt truck's front plow my truck turned instantly right, facing the ditch. I somehow managed to get it straightened back out without going into the ditch or median. Once off the salted surface I found out how slippery it actually was. The salt truck driver probably had some choice words to say about me at that time. I locked in the 4WD and was OK after that. But I still took it easy. You guys in the sun belt don't know what kinda fun yer missin' Merle

Ahh, the fun of winter travel. I've traveled through winter storms several times. Sometimes you could bearly see beyond the hood, other times it was just a mater of holding on the road without sliding off, and sometimes it's not too bad if you just take it easy. Either way it'll wear a guy out from the constant intense concentration. I-94 can get nasty. There's plenty of areas where the wind can blow snow across the road making things interesting. Any time for the gathering would be fine with me. Having a few weeks notice usually helps with my schedule, but most weekends through the winter aren't as full of activities as in the summer. I just figured January would probably work best for most. November is busy with hunting season and such and December can get rather full with Christmas things for some people. For me, I don't hunt, but I'll probably be going down to Indy for Thanksgiving with family. And Christmas only takes up a few days with a couple of shopping days thrown in. Other than that I hope to be in the shop, most weekends from now through spring, getting my truck painted and back together. Merle

You'd have to be a contortionist. The only access to the inside of the door is through the lower rectangle shaped cover near the bottom inside of the door. This is just above floor level with the door closed, and I believe most of it is behind the seat pedestal.

OK, now I get it. Thanks. So... I walked out to look at my truck. None of the rims have that extra bead like in Dennis' picture. I guess my truck doesn't have Safety Rims. Hmm. Merle

What makes it a "Safety Rim"? I'm confussed

I'm having the same problem with a parts truck I have. I haven't put the time into figuring out how to get it open yet. Maybe someone can help both of us. Merle

I had a Hershey bar yesterday and unfortunetly that's about as close as I'll be able to get. Have fun y'all