Merle Coggins

No doubt that luck was on his side, but that run seemed to be doomed from the start. He was getting out of shape by the time he grabbed second and continued to get out even further out of shape. He should have lifted much earlier and he probably could have saved it. Then, as mentioned earlier, why did his safety equipment fail? Did he even have it installed correctly? Was he even wearing his seat belts?

Welcome aboard, Dennis As you figure out your "new" toy, you'll find this bunch of guys (and gals) to be very helpful. If you can, post some pictures and tell us more about it and you. Merle

That's just TOO COOL! Stef. I like the fatties under the rear. That's one bad @$$ lookin' truck

Great point, Norm. I'm all about helping kids. That's why I work with the Ride for Kids program and the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation. If you have any extra money after giving food and toys to those unfortunate children, you can always donate the rest to another worth while cause. You can always make a do the Pediactic Brain Tumor Foundation through me at http://firstgiving.com/merle08 Sorry, I couldn't help but to jump on the band wagon. I have no shame when trying to help these kids that are battling the deadliest of all childhood cancers. Happy Holidays, Merle

I believe you can get most of the window track strips and sweeps from Roberts and/or Steele. The only thing I haven't been able to find are the short rubber bumpers that go on the inside edge of the door, facing the glass. Merle

Welcome to the Pilot-House world. I'm no expert on this, but from what I've observed a decent driver in mostly original trim will go for $5000 - $10,000 depending on how nice it is. I've seen some asking for more than that, but they don't seem to sell. If you go the customize route, the sky's the limit and the value becomes what ever you can get someone to pay for it. Sounds like you have the skills for a project like this, so I'd say go for it. You can't go wrong with Classic Mopars. Merle

I used to use a twin burner Mr. Heater propane heater. It would warm up my 1 1/2 car garage space fairly well. And you don't get the fumes associated with kerosene. I could work in there all day without needing to vent the space (unless I was running an engine). But now that I've closed in the celing and insulated everything, and added a small 240V electric heater, it is a very comfortable work space. Unforutnetly it won't accomodate my truck project. It's pretty much a motorcycle shop.

Here they use Calcium Cloride. (same stuff used in hydro-inflated tractor tires) It is sprayed in liquid form and has a much lower freezing point than the salt (Sodium Cloride) that has desolved into the ice/snow. A lot of our municipal salt trucks are rigged up with a tank of that stuff that sprays out over the salt as it's spread. As Norm stated, they tend to try to melt it all away instead of plowing it unless it starts getting heavier. (then they do both) It's depressing to see the roads a couple days after a snow storm. There won't be a trace of snow showing, except along the sholders edge, but the road surface it whiter than the snow covered ground from all of the salt.

OK, now take one of those tally marks off from behind that 3 and your closer to what we can get. 3" is bearly enough to fire up the snow blower.

I've been dealing with 24 volt systems for years in heavy equipment. I've also heard that the auto industry would be going to 48 volt or higher to run electric servo steering and brake systems that can be computer controlled. A complete drive by wire vehicle. I don't know when or if that will ever come about, but it wouldn't supprise me when it does. And yes Tim, 300 volts would knock you on your @$$ PDQ

6 volts wouldn't hurt. Even 12 volts is only a tingle. But 24 volts will get your attention

OK. I stand corrected. I knew my formulas were correct, but I didn't think all the math through. Tim's findings would be right.

Actually, you got your formula wrong. the The current in a circuit will have an inverse correlation to the load and voltage. The correct formula is E (voltage) = I (amperage) X R (resistance). If you are calculating amperage it would be I = E/R. Pushing 12 volts through a 6 volt motor will draw fewer amps, even though it'll spin faster. Merle

Looks like the cars used a round axle verses the I-beam type on the trucks. Ed's description of his axle sounds like mine. This isn't a close-up of that area, but you can see it.

Good story, Tim. And by the way... I chuckled at the first one too.

The only problem I can see with this theory is that both the engine and cab are rubber mounted. There is no mechanical metal to metal connection. There are some incidental connections, as Brad points out. One I can think of off hand would be the park brake cable. At least on the trucks with under dash pull cable park brakes, the cable housing is bolted solid to the cab and is clamped to the frame and attached to the trans. this could provide a path for electron flow, but I'd rather give them a dedicated path to use. Merle

I agree with Reg. That's how I have mine. But I often wonder if I'll need to add a ground to the frame or body so that the lights will work. I don't remember having to remove one when I disassembled the truck. I suppose it wouldn't be too difficult to add one, but what is correct for these trucks? Merle

Yup, sure looks like a 3.9 Cummins to me.

If you can find a B-Series Cummins it would probably fit nicely. We have equipment running the 3.9 liter 4 cylinder versions that are producing just over 100 HP. If a 5.9L - 6 cylinder would fit you can get well over 150 HP out of them.

You mention "dollop" and now all I can picture is a dollop of whipped cream on a slice of that pie.

On that second one, he should have just said, "For Sale. One over priced basket case. Buy it sight unseen and come get it." He says that he'll get some pictures by monday, but the auction will be almost done by then.

Do your self a favor and pick up this book. It explains all of the different options and changes made within the Pilot-House series of trucks. A GREAT book to have if you are working with these trucks. For parts sources, click on the "Return to Pilot-House.com" at the top of this page. There is a nice list of parts suppliers. Also don't leave out your local parts stores. Several parts can still be sourced locally at Napa, Checker, Advanced, Auto Zone, etc. Good luck, Merle

8" difference with the Pilot-House trucks. 1/2 ton = 108" wheel base. 3/4 ton = 116" wheel base. I've also heard that the 1/2 & 3/4 ton trucks had a different wheel bolt pattern too, but I've not confirmed that. 16" wheels were standard on the 1/2 ton's and 15" on the 3/4 ton's like earlier stated.

The "Standard" cab has no corner windows and no vent windows in the doors. The "Deluxe" and "Custom" cabs have the corner windows and vent windows. Looks like a 48 or 49 Standard Cab truck to me.