Merle Coggins

Sounds like your timing is off. Maybe by 180 degrees.

The hammer's not for beatin' on the drum or axle shaft. It's for wackin' the knocker wrench that comes with the puller. Ain't that how the pullers are designed to be used?

A 4 or 5 lb hammer would have more punch.

I've seen a couple of those. (not in person however) As I recall, they were a special build for the US Postal Service as mail delivery vehicles. Merle

Since pistons for these engines are available up to .080" or .090" oversize, I wouldn't be too concerned at .060" over.

Purolator L20700 = Baldwin P73 Or in a Wix there are two options for the L20700 Purolator. 51071 for a "Full Flow", and 51080 for "Part Flow". And of course these would be 1071 and 1080 at Napa. And my trusty Wix catalog lists these two numbers as; 51071 Chrysler, Dodge, (57-59 Daf Trucks (Full Flow) Height 4.218, O.D 3.367, I.D. .578 top - .703 bottom 51080 A-C, Case, DeSoto, Dodge (46-56), Herculese, M/F, Plymouth (53-56) Height 4.218, O.D. 3.367, I.D. .578 top - .703 bottom. I kind of get the felling that there were a few different filter manufacturers used back then. I also wonder if some of these filters were aftermarket add ons. When I got my truck it had no filter, and no evidence that there ever was one. I found my Deluxe filter on ebay and when it came it had a small metal canister type element that didn't fit correctly. It was also full of sludge. I fell sorry for the engine it came off of. Once I got it cleaned up, I found the stamping in the cover that showed the make and replacement cartridge as JC. Then using my trusty catalogs I was able to find the correct Napa filter (1011 sock type) It fit perfectly. Merle

I did a little browsing through the Master Interchange listings in my Wix Filter Catalog. I found 3 P40 listings. One was a multi-tube air filter from Farr. One was a Purolator for Schramm Compressors and has similar dimentions, but with a 1" ID which wouldn't seem correct. The third was from Baldwin and crosses to a Wix 51010 (Napa Gold 1010) It would be 4.375" high, 3.718" O.D., and .553" I.D. I then checked in my Baldwin catalog and have determined that the P40 is still a good number with them. Also in my searching, I found your Fram C4 filter. It would cross to a Wix 51006, or Napa Gold 1006, or Baldwin P41 The filter on my engine is from Deluxe and uses a JC element. This crosses to Wix 51011, or Napa Gold 1011, or Baldwin JC405. This is a sock type element whereas your P40 and C4 filters should be metal canister type elements. Does this help? Merle

Only unusual for those of us not in the "Land Down Under". I think the Aussie Ute's are pretty cool. Nice find, Pete. Welcome aboard. Merle

Here's a couple more Lucky B*****D's http://www.czabe.com/mediaclips/index.shtml?a=showclip&id=880 http://www.czabe.com/mediaclips/index.shtml?a=showclip&id=877

And when it does fail, it's "Lifetime" is over and so is the warranty.

Lookin' good Stef. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with it when it's done.

It will if the truck also has Fluid Drive. The crank flange needs to have 8 holes to attach the Fluid Drive coupling. A standard clutch engine would only have 4 holes. (or so I've heard). I do know my truck engine has the 8 hole crank in it's 218 CID engine, and it has Fluid Drive.

I usually just connect my timing light and try to dial it in close while cranking the engine over, but static timing would probably help shorten the startup procedure by getting the timing closer to start with. I don't have the specs on your car, but my truck manual specs TDC for the timing spec. You basically set your engine to the timing spec position and then, using a continuity tester between the dist - coil wire and ground, set the distributor to the position where the points just open. Certainly dymanic or "road" timing is still recommended after it's running, but your friend is right in trying to set the static timing to assist with the first start-up. So... the question still remains..."what is the timing spec for his P15?"

No doubt that luck was on his side, but that run seemed to be doomed from the start. He was getting out of shape by the time he grabbed second and continued to get out even further out of shape. He should have lifted much earlier and he probably could have saved it. Then, as mentioned earlier, why did his safety equipment fail? Did he even have it installed correctly? Was he even wearing his seat belts?

Welcome aboard, Dennis As you figure out your "new" toy, you'll find this bunch of guys (and gals) to be very helpful. If you can, post some pictures and tell us more about it and you. Merle

That's just TOO COOL! Stef. I like the fatties under the rear. That's one bad @$$ lookin' truck

Great point, Norm. I'm all about helping kids. That's why I work with the Ride for Kids program and the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation. If you have any extra money after giving food and toys to those unfortunate children, you can always donate the rest to another worth while cause. You can always make a do the Pediactic Brain Tumor Foundation through me at http://firstgiving.com/merle08 Sorry, I couldn't help but to jump on the band wagon. I have no shame when trying to help these kids that are battling the deadliest of all childhood cancers. Happy Holidays, Merle

I believe you can get most of the window track strips and sweeps from Roberts and/or Steele. The only thing I haven't been able to find are the short rubber bumpers that go on the inside edge of the door, facing the glass. Merle

Welcome to the Pilot-House world. I'm no expert on this, but from what I've observed a decent driver in mostly original trim will go for $5000 - $10,000 depending on how nice it is. I've seen some asking for more than that, but they don't seem to sell. If you go the customize route, the sky's the limit and the value becomes what ever you can get someone to pay for it. Sounds like you have the skills for a project like this, so I'd say go for it. You can't go wrong with Classic Mopars. Merle

I used to use a twin burner Mr. Heater propane heater. It would warm up my 1 1/2 car garage space fairly well. And you don't get the fumes associated with kerosene. I could work in there all day without needing to vent the space (unless I was running an engine). But now that I've closed in the celing and insulated everything, and added a small 240V electric heater, it is a very comfortable work space. Unforutnetly it won't accomodate my truck project. It's pretty much a motorcycle shop.

Here they use Calcium Cloride. (same stuff used in hydro-inflated tractor tires) It is sprayed in liquid form and has a much lower freezing point than the salt (Sodium Cloride) that has desolved into the ice/snow. A lot of our municipal salt trucks are rigged up with a tank of that stuff that sprays out over the salt as it's spread. As Norm stated, they tend to try to melt it all away instead of plowing it unless it starts getting heavier. (then they do both) It's depressing to see the roads a couple days after a snow storm. There won't be a trace of snow showing, except along the sholders edge, but the road surface it whiter than the snow covered ground from all of the salt.

OK, now take one of those tally marks off from behind that 3 and your closer to what we can get. 3" is bearly enough to fire up the snow blower.

I've been dealing with 24 volt systems for years in heavy equipment. I've also heard that the auto industry would be going to 48 volt or higher to run electric servo steering and brake systems that can be computer controlled. A complete drive by wire vehicle. I don't know when or if that will ever come about, but it wouldn't supprise me when it does. And yes Tim, 300 volts would knock you on your @$$ PDQ