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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. I'm with Bob, but I'd probably opt for the convertible version...
  2. The Polish Connection, as I understand it, is the Hwy 10/441 bridge over Little Lake Butte des Morts, which is under major reconstruction now. (Also known as the Roland Kampo bridge) The 441 - 10 East interchange, at Oneida St, is in the process of getting one of these interchanges. I'm sure the locals will have some interesting names for it when it's done.
  3. Running a higher pressure cap won't lower the temps. It only raises the boiling point of the coolant so that it can run hotter without boiling over.
  4. If you have spark from the coil then your ignition module is working. Maybe you have a problem with the cap/rotor not passing the current through to the plug wires.
  5. New bushings need to be reamed to fit the pins.
  6. I once drove from Minneapolis to Appleton, WI to Waukesha, WI with a faulty voltage regulator that would only charge periodically on my 6 volt system.
  7. I used a sender from Roberts. The arm was shorter than the old unit, but it seems to work just fine. I figure if it doesn't reach the bottom of the tank then it gives me a "reserve" when the gauge reads empty. Old unit on the left... Roberts unit on the right Also, to ensure a good ground for the sending unit I added a ground stud. I drilled a hole off to the side and inserted a machine screw, with a bit of sealant. This way I could add a ground wire to the chassis and not rely on the tank mounting for a ground path.
  8. There should be a plug on the bottom of the axle hub, on the backside of the brake assembly. Remove the plug and insert a grease fitting. pump in a bit of grease and reinstall the plug. That's what I remember from the maintenance section of my manual. Correction... don't use a grease gun as it could push grease past the seal and into your brakes...
  9. I believe it's 5/16"
  10. Flathead engines don't use push rods. Push rods are used on overhead valve engines. They go between the cam tappets and the rocker arms to push the valves open. Connecting rods connect the crankshaft to the pistons.
  11. You are correct, Bob. Diverging Diamond is the correct term. I had it wrong.
  12. Pull off the dist. cap and see if you can twist the rotor. You should be able to twist it slightly one direction, but it should spring back. If you try to twist the other direction it should be solid. If you can twist it back and forth several degrees without much resistance that would indicate a faulty advance mechanism.
  13. I think you missed the "space" Don. He said it's a "straight 6 3.6cc" engine. However, it should have read 3.6 l (liter) or 3600 cc.
  14. Check with Mikes Carburators http://www.carburetor-parts.com/BB-BBR1-Ball-Ball_c_149.html
  15. It's possible that the springs on your advance weights, in the distributor, are broken so that it goes to full advance once it spins a little. Or, if the timing marks are on a damper, maybe the outer ring of the damper has slipped and now the marks are off. Merle
  16. If I had to replace my dipstick I would change the oil with the proper amount, then insert a new dipstick and see where the oil mark is. I would then place the full mark at that point. You could even stop filling 1 quart short initially to find your "low" mark. Merle
  17. As stated that is a special fitting that is part of the needle/seat that works with the float. I'm not even sure where you can get one, but I'm sure they're available somewhere. There should be a filter inside that glass bowl. It was likely a sintered bronze stone looking filter, but there are paper replacements available. There is a recent thread going on that very thing right now.
  18. Usually it's the valves that get stuck in the guides. I've never heard of a tappet getting stuck in it's bore. You say it moves horizontally... do you mean that you can spin it? That would indicate that it's not stuck in the bore. Maybe it's just sticky enough that it won't drop under it's own weight. Try gently tapping on the top of the valve, but be careful not to hit the outer part of the valve as that could potentially bend it. You could also spray down the valve stem with some penetrating oil first to get some lube in there when you get it freed up.
  19. That would also indicate that it is more likely a '38. Here's a pic I found on the internet...
  20. That appears to be a partial flow / bypass filter. A full flow filter would bolt up to that diamond spot on the block.
  21. Nice truck... but why does it appear to be a short wheel base for a 1 ton? And a low side bed? I don't believe I've ever seen that combination.
  22. A Diverging X intersection. I've been through a couple of those down in Atlanta area. A little strange the first time through one, but then you'll realize they work pretty well. They're rebuilding an interchange near me into one of those.
  23. They do on mine... since I replaced the side strips too.
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