Dodgeb4ya

Had my 51 Cranbrook to 5200 Rpm back in 1970 during high school days.That was in 1st gear-thats what my Dixco tach was showing me and my buddies. Had it ported and 8 to 1 CR with a Mallory.-Scary! It still is running well to this day though. My 1st car. Bob

I bid on Epay to satisfy myself- not the seller. Maybe thats the same for Michael. Prices on P15 clocks and lighters go for crazy $$$ !

Maybe if you are a good boy Santa might put one of these "Jiffy" kits under your Pilot House seat!

You need that accelerator pump discharge check ball . You need another parts carb or someone here who has parts or core carb to sell/offer you. Bopb

I agree with Don, as my Dodge trucks use factory installed twin Ball and Ball's and they have always performed flawlessly too. Bob

If the shoe doesn't fit you must quit. The shoe radius must match the drum radius before any shoe installation and adjusting! The drums need to be miked and then the shoes arced on a brake shoe arching machine to each specific drum Diameter- and yes I realize it could be hard to find someone to do this now days but this is the best way to a proper hard pedal. If the radius of the standard size shoe lining is put to say a .040" oversize drum even with the 1750 Ammco tool you will still never get toe and heel specs correct because the center of the lining hits the drum 1st. They used to sell OS shoe sets for this specific issue. You can still survive all this complicated brake mumbo jumbo if you cannot get the tools. Read all these P15/D24 posts on these lockheed brakes! Use all new parts-hoses too, bleed them with a pressure bleeder-with shoes retracted, thats the best way. You need to adjust up the brake shoes the best you feel you can-shoes should just rub a bit-look at the brake lining surface's (2) for each drum, see where the lining is showing rubbing- this after spinning the drums by hand-remove the drums to check linings. Now the best possible wear/rubbing area you want on new non-arched shoes is to have most of the contact area at the shoe end near the wheel cylinder and continuing on into the center area of each of the linings. Start with factory settings of the anchor arrows- they point to each other on car's rear brakes. On the front brakes arrows point to each wheel cylinder. Start this adjusting with the 3/4" adjuster bolt at the center of each backing plate. Turn each brake adjustment cam till drum won't turn, then back off each shoe cam adjuster till the drum just turns with a slight drag. Pull the drum off and look at the shoes and see which area of the shoe is rubbing. Try to get the most rubbing contact area from the wheel cyl end of shoe into the center area of the shoe. This is when you get to play with the anchor pins too- Oh boy. If the arc of the shoes doesn't come close to the dia. of the drum you will spend all day trying to adjust the shoes! Thats why from the factory when new the anchor arrows are always set as I stated above and the shoes were arched-fitted to the factory OE diameter of the drums. When the drums are over size/ and not OE thickness linings ect. anchor pins will sometimes need to be turned. BUT....if this seems too complicated...... Just leave the anchors at stock settings-install shoes and adjust the brake cam adjusters-3/4" bolts, and drive the car around (if a soft pedal ) keep your distance and keep wearing in the shoes. After the 1st drive they might fade- let them cool. Adjust them up, again drive it a couple hundred more miles ,adjust them up again and they-WILL start to come up and be firm great brakes!-Assuming all the parts are installed properly and are proper rebuilt or new. I'm done! Bob

Don, Isn't the wire in question is part of the primary circuit-6 volt- low voltage. Secondary is part of the cap/rotor spark plug wires ect. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Bob

The Plymouth Hy-Drive converter is a torque multiplier like all modern cars use-unlike a fluid drive coupling which does not multiply torque. It's just a fluid coupling pushing fluid from one 1/2 to the other 1/2. Bob

I think I agree. You need all the tools to do it the easy way and the right way. Am glad I have all the tools to do these. Bob

Your car uses a special copper bellows accordian seal that screws into the fluid drive coupling. I have seen these copper bellows seals with corroded pin holes in them. It (the bellows seal) has a hardened steel ring wear surface on the inner end that a special graphite ring seal seals against. One or both are most likely bad.Also the graphite ring seals against a inner hardened seal surface inside the Fluid drive coupling that is not accessable or replaceable with out special equipment.To remove the bellows seal unit ( after 1st removing the clutch driven plate) a special 4 prong socket is used to remove it as you have seen in your shop manual. You need the bellows and graphite ring to hopefully seal the FD unit up. I have done many this way. Bellows seal unit is a MoPar #857616 and the graphite seal is #1064616. Bob

1 ton , 2-1/2 and a 4 ton Bob

I don't think it would work too well on a Chrysler woody- especially a convertible. The wood is a little too thick! Like 7". Bob

Acme Headlining Co. in LA has made them for years. But--- they might only be wholesale.

Excellent job Dave! What did you use to Re-cover the arm rest and how did you do it? Bob

The 3rd picture is a pic of my Miller C705 tool with some one else's lighter. Did it go on a "Master Technichians Service Conference" trip without letting me know? I just took a picture of it with my MTSC lighter! Thats odd a picture of my tool somewhere else in this country! Where was that picture taken? I did loan it out 5 or more years ago!!!! ??? Very strange! Hmmm... Bob

The OE Dodge truck Outer seal #1117814 was superceded by 1409902. 1117814 would be a good # too.

Being this is not the C39 board I just thought I needed to clarify what was original to the straight 8's ! I have several. Thanks Gregg, Bob

They are 1941 DeSoto- because of the 4 ribs and narrow long belt moulding base mount plate. Rear door probably Town Sedan. Bob

Uh, A rocker arm for a Fiat 128S ?

My "add on" Spitfire is not that at all. It's the factory installed spark plug wire loom-or as in the parts book it's called a tube assembly. Used on all the 323 eights. I did paint the lightning bolts red which is not factory for 1946 up and who cares! Lightning bolts should be engine color. Same as on the more common Chrysler 250-265's. Bob

Sure they did----Top view

The 1938 DeSoto S5 OD is a centrifical OD completely different than a R10. It's a AS2-T85A warner R-6 OD unit. You need a old National Data book or factory shop manual for complete info. I would leave the back 1/2 alone and put it back in-simple job and see if it works and is quiet. Then later when you get more info take it out and go into it if you need to.. Bob

Yes they did make some speed equipment and here is what I have for my 323ci. 8's. The NOS Mallory is already on my convert. It made a big difference in smoothness and reliability of the straight 8 ignition system! The intake manifold is an Edmonds. Bob

This is the special MoPar bolt Joe is looking for. This one is no good.

George knows what to do to get your job done. You need to ask him what all he needs/wants to make up the trans you want.