Barabbas

It doesn't get much better than "Dog is my co-pilot"

Yep, the compression on these engines is around 7:1--87 octane is good enough

Nothing needed--these old flatheads have hardened valve seats and did not depend upon lead in the gas

I'm running 50/50 coolant--@90 deg Doris stays right around 170 at highway speeds (60-65) and might get as high as 190 in town/traffic

In my '52 there is no fuse on the headlights--instead there is a bi-metal type electrical breaker...if there is a short in the headlights the breaker will cycle on and off. I expect that you have a short within the switch itself

If you use the + sign before a word, the search function will then recognize the short word...+oil +weight for instance led me to this thread http://p15-d24.com/topic/38764-oil-recommendations-for-1950-b-2-b-flat-head/page-2?hl=+oil%20+weight but no matter how many threads you check here, you will find more opinions than scientific fact when it comes to oil

try this thread http://p15-d24.com/topic/38901-oil/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bbrand I think the search function filters out words of 3 letters or shorter. You will find that there is no optimum answer--personally I use Valvoline Max Life 10w-40. There are a few purist who use only 30wt non detergent, a lot of Rotella users and a lot of whatever is on sale.

I now have 15x5 hot rod ralley wheels from wheels vintique

I expect you've got a problem with your Tach---at 50 you should probably be turning closer to 2500 but I don't know your 4th gear ratio, your rear end ratio or your tire size

I too, have the full ECI package--I'm happy with it, it stops straight and true after 7,000 miles---but be aware that you will have to get new wheels..the original equipment wheels will not clear the calipers

First of all, I doubt that anyone can really "make money" or "get out what they put into" these old Plymouths--you have do it for sentimental or hobby reasons. I've watched prices on ebay for many years and with the exception of wagons, and convertibles--these cars rarely sell for over $7500 even in very good condition. I'm guessing from what you've described that the car is worth around $1500

Measure the resistance of one of the spark plug wires. If the resistance is over 3000 ohms/foot (10,000 Ohms per meter) you have the carbon supression type wire..If the resistance is about 500 Ohms/foot you have MAG or Spiral type wires and if the resistance is low you have old school solid core wires.

She likes Dogs, Old trucks, Old Mopars---yep a real keeper Congratulations to both of you

Welcome to the forum--Hope you're not covered in Calamine Lotion. There are 3 possilbilities for your Oil Filter 1)-there is none--oil filters were an option on the old flatheads 2) Sealed Canister--you can find them on ebay or on line at Andy Bernbaum--they are a little expensive $70 or so 3) Replaceable filter--available at NAPA 1080 post a picture of your filter--if you have one, should be located on the driver's side of the engine,

Check out this thread http://p15-d24.com/topic/36703-show-your-wheels/?hl=%2Bshow+%2Byour+%2Bwheels maybe you can find a set of wheels you like

Ralph, I agree that there little correllation between value and enjoyment. If I still lived in the Pacific NW where I could drive Doris 12months a year, I would keep her; but winter here means I have to either store her mid-Nov to early April or play driveway shuffle all winter. My wife isn't too happy about keeping her car out in the ice, snow and cold while my toys are safe and warm in the garage. I've got Doris to the point that she is a safe and fairly reliable driver and a good 10 footer--but there is still a lot that could be done (shock relocation, dual exhaust and an ignition upgrade) that I just can't seem to get motivated to do. So probably late this summer--after I've driven her to my 50th High School reuinion--I'll see if I can find someone that deserves her Mike

I've started to have the same dilemma. A year and a half ago we bought another toy (2001 BMW Z3)-so for the 5 months of winter we have here the old '52 has to go into remote storage. In summer there is always the debate--Old Car or less Old Covertible--for the ride to get an ice cream cone. I'm down to about 1500 miles a year and more importantly, making more improvements on "Doris" isn't my top priority. I like the "if you don't love it--find someone who does" sentiment---I am attached to the old girl but not dedicated to her. I have to admit that getting under a car at my semi-advanced age (68) is less appealing than it used to be. Logically I should sell it--but it's a bit like getting rid of a pet. Not an easy decision, Brian.

A third vote for double clutching on the downshift as for 1st to 2nd upshift--no problem as long as you remember it is a definite "H" patern with a slight pause in the center--whenever I get in a hurry and try to shift on a diaganol pattern-she will grind. The rubber band steering also took me a while to get used to. I also find that even with front disc brakes, that I have to start braking a lot sooner than I would in my modern cars

I have a bit of a grind issue shifting into 2nd when I first start my P23. If I let the car idle in neutral for a few minutes before taking off, I don't seem to have any problems upshifting. I use napa 90wt GL1. Downshifting--well I've gotten pretty good at doubling clutching. I'm going to try AMSoil 10w-40 and see if that improves things

http://p15-d24.com/topic/23199-car-overheats-at-idle-cause/?hl=%2Bfiberglass+%2Bshroud#entry227015 Check this out--make your own

Looking at my wiring diagram the Red wire is 14# and black is 16# which leads me to believe that the Red wire is the high beam

Don't know about vacuum motors but Newport Engineering makes an Electric Wiper that will fit 46-50 plymouths

I used the ECI brake kit on my '52 P23--works with no issues BUT you do need to buy new wheels

I've gotten leaks from various areas in that area of the carb after shutting my car down, usually I can trace it back to a little dirt/rubber flake keeping the needle valve from closing completely--the other possibility is that your float is set to high. Either problem is easy to fix--check your manual for how to set your float

I remember that Pete "blue skies" had a shop in Idaho make a new driveshaft for his 50 Plymouth. Even back in 2008 it cost near $400...http://www.50plymouth.com/07-cha/driveline4.jpg