Barabbas

I'm using a fuel pump from Vintage Power wagons--it's originally designed for the Power Wagon application but it fits on my P23 and has worked fine for 1500 miles. Just make sure you have clearance between the engine and the inner fender because it is a bit wider than the Automobile fuel pump

Yes, you should have a cable going to the heater box. There is a lever on the top of the box which the cables pulls on, I believe the lever operates a flap which directs incoming air past the heater core on the "winter" setting. As for the heater guage, my '52 Cranbrook runs normally on the low end of the line (about 1/16" of line showing ) and creeps up to the mid point when idling for extended periods in 80F weather-I have a 160 thermostat

I took the simple route--I-69 to Port Huron via Lansing & Flint. It's a little longer but generally much less traffic than going via Ann Arbor & Detroit. Normally when I'm just day trippin' I prefer the two lanes but when I have to make miles I stick to the expressways

No, I didn't. I love Ferries, used to live on the Olympic Peninsula where ferries were a part of life. So I thought hard about it but, it appeared to me that the trip home from Marine Mi was going to involve a lot more urban driving than the Port Huron route--I may be all wrong on that but just looking at the map, I didn't see an easy path thru Michigan

21mpg- Yes I was very surprised I only get about 16-17 around town Also used less than a 1/2 quart of oil for the trip-another nice surprise-

Man What a great trip! The weather was perfect -high 70s, blue skies and big puffy white clouds, and most important Doris ran great. On the trip to Guelph, Ont I took it easy; kept her at 60-63. No problems, temp and oil guages were rock steady. Oil pressure stayed at 50 psi all day except when idling it went down to 25 which is pretty typical for Doris. The Temp stayed on the low end of normal (P23 temp guage doesn't have numbers just an acceptable range mark)-at the 20 minute border crossing the temp crept up to mid normal. Doris seems to have a wide range where she runs nice and smooth except for 63-66 or so where there is a low freq vibration that you can feel in the seat of your pants. Not terrible but noticable to a gear head. On the way back I drove as Don suggested--68-72 with a brief run up to 78. Again everything was steady and cool. Overall for the 819 mile trip I averaged 21.1 mpg--better than I expected. Only issue that I had on this trip was that I lost both front wheelcovers -- I have Wheel-vintique wheels on the front to clear my Disc breaks and apparently the OEM wheelcovers can work their way off the wheels. I have to say I had more fun than I've had in a long time--I was pleasanlty surprised at how comfortable the chair type sitting position in these old Mopars is on long trips. I really expected my right knee and hip to be a little stiff and sore since I don't have cruise control but I had absolutely no pain or stiffness at all. Also I had forgotten how well the old "60 airconditioning" works. Driving with an open window and resting your elbow on the car door is as good as it gets.

Greg--I'm planning on Port Huron--I share your reluctance to use the Windsor Bridge/tunnel, I much prefer the open roads to the urban traffic I will try to heed the advice of slow and steady, and I will definetly keep my eye on the temp/oil gauges

I've had "Doris" about 6 years now. In that time I've slowly upgraded/repaired her (12 volt, disc brakes, dual M/C, George Asche O/D and carbs, new fuel & water pumps, new interior and of course new WWW radials). I've driven her about 11,000 miles but always within 100 miles of home--now it's time to venture out. Tomorrow, I will take her on a 400 mile trip from NE Indiana to the Toronto burbs. I've put new plugs in her, reset the timing (4 BTDC), topped off the engine oil, transmission oil and lube. A few weeds ago I had the front end aligned and brake fluid flushed and replaced. I've renewed my AAA membership and have my cellphone charged--I'm ready to go---wish me luck. I'll report back Monday with tales of my nearly 1,000 mile round trip

Let's see 1952 Plymouth Cambridge 1960 Valiant 1970 Barracuda (first new car---wish I had it today, it'd be worth as much as my 401k) 1974 Pontiac Grand Am (400-4bbl, incdredibly fast 30-90, but much not good at anything else) 1980 Chevy Citation (no comment required) 1984 Plymouth Voyager --okay, sometimes you just have to do the parent thing and buy a mini-van 1985 Ford Tempo--absolute worst car of the lot 1990 Ford Taurus--okay, but boring 1990 Honda Civic Si--a true go-cart and 36mph...I beat this car for 150,000 miles and then sold it 1994 Honda Accord Coupe (5 speed v-tec)--okay for a family type car 1994 BMW 325i--my favorite car, I bought it used in 2002 with only 50000 miles. The sales guy a rare moment of honesty said "you'll love this car even when it's in the shop". He was right, and it was in the shop at least every 18 months with a $1000 surprise. Died with a blown tranny at 140,000 2009 Honda Fit--This was no Honda Civic SI--great car if you are under 30 and drive only in the city--but terribly noisy on the hiway and hard on the back side of an old fart 2008 Buick Rendezvous---great for hauling stuff and my 95# pound labrador, good freeway cruiser but no fun on the twisties 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook--I've gone full circle

Distilled water SHOULD BE perfectly neutral but apparently that isn't actually the case: "Distilled water ideally consists of only hydrogen and oxygen, with a completely neutral pH of 7. In reality, it almost always is slightly acidic, from 5.6 to just under 7, because the water absorbs carbon dioxide from the air. A gallon of distilled water can be made neutral by adding 1/8 tsp. of baking soda, a substance with a pH of 8. Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_4623914_ph-distilled-water.html#ixzz2YaPNfY4c

Do you have any reccomendations on what is a "good fan" brand and how many CFM we need or is it just more is better?

I redid my interior about 5 years ago. The Back seat and door panels are from EZ Boy, they fit well are good quality but a little pricey. The front seats are out of a Ford E350--my back didn't like the old bench seat.

Thanks--that's looks like the '53 Emblem on ebay--unfortunately he was BIG bucks for it. BTW I like your Belvidere's back-up light, is it original?

I was just cruising ebay when I saw a chrome "overdrive" emblem for a 1953 Plymouth --did the 1952 Plymouth have an overdrive badge? If so I'll have to add one more thing on Christmas list

I have several words, generally comprised of 4 letters, that I save for just that type of occasion. Since this isn't one of those occasions I can't repeat the words here

I certainly enjoyed meeting some forum members and was very impressed with their Mopars...Saw more Desotos at this show than I have seen in the past 5 years combined

Yep it did turnout to be easy and probably was crap in the needle valve--but I'll take another 10 mile drive tomorrow before I'm totally relieved. Bob, they might be small rubber particles--I'll tear down the old pump next week and see if there is any detiorating black rubber in there, or maybe the short section ( 6" or so) of rubber gas line connecting from my fuel rail to my carbs Thanks to all for their advice

Well, she's working although I really can't say why. I took the needle valve and seat out, they looked cleanbut I wiped them off and blew on them for good measure. I noticed that there were several ( about 20) small black specs in the carb bowl. ( The specs were like flakes of carbon micoscopic thin and probably only .005-.010" square). So I cleaned out all the gas and sediment, reset the float, put her back together. Took her for a 10 mile test drive with a lot of left hand turns and several stop, turn off, restart cycles--she started find, no flooding,no surging, no loss of power. It always makes me nervous when I "solve" a problem without really knowing what I fixed. So I'll keep my fingers crossed for the next couple of days

Bob, I haven't yet but that will be the next step. I was just in the garage fueling around and noticed that when I shut car off, gas kept dripping into the venturi like an old TBI system. After a few minutes I took off the carb top and the fuel level in the bowl was very low, so one of my jets may also be gummed up

The oil filter is a by-pass filter, filtering only about 10% of the oil at a given moment. If the filter is plugged the oil will still circulate in the engine and pressure will be maintained

Got a pressure guage---Fuel pump output is 4.5 psi, surprised me, I was convinced the new pump was the problem. Fooled around today with float height but still can't stop her from flooding the front carb (back carb is operating fine). The float is boyant but I want to pull it out and give it the shake test..is there a trick to taking the float out without removing the needle valve/seat?

New toy on order (fuel pressure/vacuum(sp) guage)--I'll report back in a couple days when I have some readings

Continuing saga---I've been playing around, tightening stuff etc. The float is set pretty low about .110" so I don't think that's the cause. The more I test it appears that the leak now happens after I shut off the engine. I think it is coming from the throttle shaft area. Could this be caused by a stuck needle valve? One other thought I've had is that the output tube of the new fuel pump sits closer to the the exhaust manifold than my old pump, and my car does not have a hear shield--could I have the dreaded boiling gas issue even though it's 40F out?

Don, right now I live on the SW side--Aboite area but in my previous 25 years here, I lived NE, southwood park and wildwood park-so I know the town pretty well. Give me a message next time your visiting your son and we can meet at Mad Anthony's, have a beer and swap bloody knuckle stories

I should add that I'm not positvie that my leak is at the main vent tube, it's hard to see exactly where the gas is coming from. It could be from the throttle shaft or maybe a gasket. The leak is in the front of the carb and below the reservoir