thrashingcows

Wow what a beautiful car you have...and welcome to the board. You truly have a great history with your car, and a vast knowledge of these models...I've really enjoyed reading all your informative posts.

Yup that is the one I received...not even close to fitting "snug". I'm dealing with their customer service right now. To me it looks like it's a defective part....or poorly crafted. If they can't provide me with a good piece I'll go with the Roberts one as suggested. Thanks again for the help!

Anyone have a fender with the gas tank seal out that they could measure...Dodge, Plymouth, Desoto, Chrysler? I'm wondering on the size of the hole. Mine is almost 3" round. The new fender seals lower lip is barely a hair over 3".

Well I sent an E-mail to Steele Rubber about my issue...see what they say.

Just received my, Steele Rubber, fuel neck to fender seal. Have to say I'm not impressed. Fits the filler neck fine, loks good from the top, but it has so little material on the underside of the grommet, that it won't grab, or seal against the fender. Just flops around. Anyone else have issues with one of these?

Nothing wrong with that...I like the tucked up look of the bumper. You getting the rear one done the same way? What did you use as a donor for the bumpers?

I just read through that entire thread...neat car. Bit of an odd style..but the more I looked at it the more I liked it.

Many here have gone with the Almuinum radiators from E-bay...myself included. Very nice units. Do not have an OEM look...but cheaper then having your old one repaired, and re-cored. You might have to alter the mounting holes a little to fit your car. And you might want to paint it with a black radiator paint to make it look a little more OEM...but other then that it's a direct fit.

That's a nice looking convertible...Congrats on the purchase...and sale... Those dressed up 'verts look mighty fine!!

I ordered one of those for my Desoto a month or so ago. Got it through E-bay as well....$230 with free shipping. Tank straps are a universal type....but could be made to work. Came with everything but a fuel sending unit. I just got it installed a few days ago. Will update my build thread with pics and info soon.

I know I cringed when I saw that rear end set-up. With that weak coil over mount set-up up inside the car. And I love the text... Whole lot of contradictory statements in there.

I just got back from 3 days of deliveries out on the road.... -10*C to -27*C the whole time. SO I know the cold well....I have to stand out in that weather during deliveries for about 1-2 hours. Good thing I love the cold...must be my Scandinavian roots. Looks like fun...Thanks for the pics.

I would think that either the flap within the heater box is not opening, or there is a plug within the heater core itself. Check to make sure the dash cable control is actually moving the lever on the heater box. Sometime the cables can break, or become un-fastened from the heater box. I would also disconnect your heater box from your cooling system, and do a back flow flush through the heater core. Hook the hose up to the heater hoses, in both directions, and make sure you are actually getting flow through the heater core. One of these things will tell you why you do not have heat. Oh BTW you should have posted this in the regular discussion forum.

I'm thrilled your getting your first car back...that is something most of us youngins now days just don't have the ability to do. I think this is a very worthy reason to sell off your current garage patrons. Please keep us posted on your restoration when it begins. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to follow along.

To post up pictures on all on-line (internet) sites they need to first be uploaded to a hosting site. This was done for security reasons. Before when you could just link to your hard drive on your computer any nefarious individual could gain access to all your info on your computer. But now your pictures must be hosted on-line, Be it a third party like Photobucket, Skydive etc. or hosted by the website your are currently using....P15-D24. Once the pictures from your computer have been uploaded to the host site you need to get the URL. That is the on-line location for the picture(s). Most hosting sites will have several ways to share the picture...but to post the picture you generally will be looking for the "IMG" code. But you can post most on-line pictures by right clicking your mouse over the photo...then going to "properties" Then highlight and copy the "Address/URL". Then go to the forum in which you wish to post the picture...type out "" and then paste your copied location between the img codes. This will then put the picture in your post.

Hahahahaha...That's the same car!! The craigslist ad and the one on the Country classic website. They probably bought is for less then $4K and then tacked on $2K for there time and effort.

What kind of starter do you have...plain starter with a starter solenoid mounted remotely? Or does it have the solenoid mounted on top of the starter? This might determine what kind of kit you will need...if there is indeed one available. Greater minds then mine will chime in and let you know that...

Well a a fellow on one of the other boards I frequent asked a question about those zip ties I had holding the wiring tight on the new sending unit. He asked...."Wonder how those plastic ties will hold up to the ethanol, and gasoline, in your new tank?" Darn good question I thought. So a few of us bantered this thought around and finally came up with a suitable solution. Why not use stainless, copper, or brass wire, instead of plastic zip ties. Well it just so happens I have one of the old battery cables from Ol' Fernando...the plastic covering was mostly baked off. It was in my copper/brass scrap bucket. So out it came to donate a couple copper strands to the cause. Figured now would be the best time to take care of this...tank on the ground, and empty. Here it is all wired up...so to speak...

Well I have only had it around the block...since it's not registered in Canada yet..have to pass Gov't inspection first. But it seems to get up and go not too bad. I actually just sold the old fluid drive, and matching carb to a local fellow who lurks around here. He recognized Ol' Fernando......He has a 47 Desoto 4dr with a stuck motor, and no tranny. This last weekend I had a bunker "Craigslist" weekend...4 sales in 2 days!!

And I Thank you Sir!! I have looked at a few of those caps of E-bay...but most of the time they are heavily pitted. I too like the period look.

Truly you are top notch craftsmen!! The work you are doing is truly humbling to us simple backyard wrenchers. Thank you for taking the time to post up all the info and pics....and your English is great BTW...better then some who were born here...

Think you need to read a little more carefully there Tim... I was refering to the Stant 10491...Locking gas cap. As you can see in my post... I bold faced it so you wouldn't miss it. The 10623 looks very nice, and close to the original. Here is a pic of the standard Stant 10623... And the Stant 10491, Locking gas cap....

If you ever find another one in that kind of shape...for that price...I'll buy it in a heart beat.

That's a nice looking locking cap. Sure beats the ugly Stant locking cap. Is that a new cap, or a old stock one?

More good info...Thanks.