thrashingcows

Well with family visiting and stuff....I missed a message from Wayne, the owner of Trademasters, and LineX franchisee, yesterday. I'm assuming He is all bent out of shape because I went above his head and filed a negative Testimonial on the corporate site. He says he will do absolutely NOTHING for me. He also basically said since I did not like his "solution" of gluing back down the liner, then I got what I deserved! All I can say is WOW. Talk about an extremely unprofessional individual. I have sent another e-mail to the Corporate regional manager about this. We'll see what they say.

Wednesday I filed a complaint with the BBB, and I also put a negative "testimonial" on the corporate LineX page. Guess who contacted me yesterday through E-mail....Canadian Regional Manager for LineX. We'll see where this goes....Guess I got their attention finally!

I thought my original post was fairly clear? I did not do this myself. I went to a certified LineX shop and had them look at my truck first, before we even agreed to get the bed sprayed. They inspected my truck and said it would be fine to spray the liner in the bed of my truck. I cleaned the bed of my truck, as I stated in my response to Don Coatney. Delivered the truck to them at the agreed upon date and time, and about 2 hours later the liner was done. Less then a year after Trademasters sprayed the lineX product into the bed and tailgate, the tailgate began to peel. The rest of the story is as I have posted it.

I scrubbed the entire bed of my truck with SOS pads and degreaser the night before. I used a stiff bristle brush with the degreaser to clean the bed surfaces. I thought I did everything I could to help.

Now the pics that go along with this issue..... First area I picked at... Then a few days later. This was just a few seconds worth of picking. Took less than 2 minutes to strip this one side.... And the rest took only a few more minutes between myself and my friend. Pictures are wroth a thousand words aren't they...

I have tried to take the high road on this, but clearly they are not interested in customer service or warranting their product. Here's my story.... I purchased a Line-X spray in bed liner from, Trademaster Automotive LTD 44467 Yale Rd West Chilliwack, BC, V2R 4H2 1-877-878-5869 I purchased this spray in bed liner on Sept 11/2012, for my 1984 Dodge ram pick up. Within a year of having the liner sprayed on the tailgate began to peal. I brought the truck in earlier this year to have them look at the pealing tailgate. They said that they could "Glue" it back down....not the response I was looking for! But recently I had noticed that there were several areas inside the box where the liner appeared to be lifting. So a few weeks ago now, I started to pick at the liner and it started to pull up easily. I was not very happy about this because I was wondering how many other sections had started to lift, allowing water to infiltrate under the liner, and allow rust to start. So a day or two later I decided that I should try and get the liner out of the box. I assumed that this was going to be a big job, since they claim that the liner's adhesion, and durability is almost indestructible. Well it took me, and my friend, under 10 minutes to pull the liner out of the box. We used nothing more then our finger tips to start the edges pealing away. I contact the franchisee with pictures and a statement of what had happened, through their website. I received a call a couple days later, but was not around to answer the call. I called back and the owner (?) Wayne was not available to speak with. We played phone tag for a week or two, but it seemed like I would not get a call back, unless I called first. I decided to test my theory, so over the last 10 days or so I decided not call them at all....I have not received a single call from TradeMasters. About 2 weeks ago I called Corporate Line-X and left a messages describing my situation. Hoping that they would get involved and help settle this issue. I have not heard back from them. I called again last week, and again no communication. So I have filed a complaint with the BBB, and on the corporate website I entered a "testimonial" about my situation. We'll see what comes of all this over the next several weeks. I am posting this on every on-line forum I frequent, with the hopes that the negative publicity will bring these parties out of the wood work to negotiate a fair settlement for this obvious faulty product.

Yes you can tap the valve face to get it to drop down and free up the keepers. I would use either a brass punch, or a piece of wood to try and minimize any potential damage to your valve. Also try and hit it as straight as possible, and not very hard, you don't want to accidentally bend the valve.

Good attitude. No sense being made at something you can't change. Put a mile on your face, laugh a little to yourself and get to work fixing and doing what must be done. I really hope it all works out for you.

An OD switch for the shift knob would only need 1 wire, if I'm not mistaken. The fact that this has two would lend me to believe it was for turn signals. Neat regardless.

That an Edmunds intake?

Thanks. I brought up my build thread if you're interested in looking at where it all began. http://p15-d24.com/topic/28411-48-desoto-project-thread/

I ran one of those lower rad hose heaters for several years in my 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury, while I was driving it year round. Worked really well. If you are at all concerned with the motor freezing up, then maybe put in one of the lower rad hose heaters, then put it on a timer to come on for 2 hours every night, during the coldest part of the evening. I just recently brought home my 48 Desoto, which had been parked for over a year. I fired it up on the same gas I parked it with. I use Marine Sta-bil Fuel Stabilizer....some of the best stuff out there in my opinion. You can run it in every tank of fuel as well to help counter act the detrimental effects of the ethanol.

Dragging this one back to the top. Just got Fernando home after a year or more in hibernation. Will be trying to re-wire the entire car from front to rear with an after market E-Z wiring harness....we'll see how that goes. And hope to get all the new glass installed, along with new window and door seals. Adn I'm sure there will be many other projects along the way.

Thank you for the condolences everyone...Appreciate it! Here are a few pics of Fernando, guess about 18 months ago now, when I put the new coker wide whites on... I had also just redone the dash...

Compared with the oil, sludge and crud build up you can sometimes find in the lifter valley...that looks darn near perfect! Should turn out to be a nice easy rebuild for you.

Plan is to get the Desoto re-wired front to back. And maybe get the new glass, front, rear and sides, all installed. We will see... So I will be on the board a bit more now that I have Fernando home.

..But I'm back now. Didn't bring home the Desoto last year due to me converting my 1984 2wd cummins/5 spd D350 crewcab to a 4wd. Big job that I started in Oct 2013 and finished end of April 2014. Also during that time my father had been sick, and was finally diagnosed with terminal lung cancer and was given 6 weeks....he passed on Mother day this year. So toady I just got finsihed doing my old car shuffle. Moved my 68 Chrysler wagon into storage, and brought home Ol' Fernando. Wagon off to storage... And bring home Ol' Fernando...

That is a very interesting block heater...never seen one like that before that uses a head stud to warm things up. Thanks for posting up your mystery, it turned into quite the learning session.

I think that would be a great idea!

Hmmmm...I never thought of this. I just installed the aluminum rad I got, with the cap it came with. Never even thought about the pressure being too high.

Is this a "New" fan..or a used one?

I have no idea if the Mustang brake shoes would even work with the backing plates. And I highly doubt the off set of the backing plate and the off set of the original drum would be compatible. But could be worth a try...I'd see if I could find a set of used shoes from the wrecker and give it a whirl. If it doesn't work out then you'd only be out a couple bucks. But my whole reason for this conversion was to try and do away with teh drums you have to use a puller to get off. And to have a system that parts are readily available at most auto parts stores.

Yeah that's the trouble...you have to take a bit of a risk. I was fortunate and the amount was only $1200...and the guy was "known" in and around the car/part selling scene. What I did was send the money and told him I wanted the title and registration sent to me ASAP. Once that was in hand then I arranged shipping for the car. But since I was picking the car up and bringing it across the border myself I could do this. If you were to have the transport company broker the car across the border..twice...then I would think they might need all the paper work in their possession. I know there are guys on the board from around that area. Try and put up a separate thread asking for someone in that area to do some leg work for you. Tell them too that you will be willing to pay for their time and fuel.

Than you for the kind words. I got the new seal for the lower door from steele rubber.

As I stated I have tried the Bendix brake swap on the original diff set-up...and it's not a direct swap. I am still working on getting all the parts together to try again...but it will definitely be a bit of work to get it bolt up. And yes I have seen that conversion before...and they are only converting a current bendix brake system from tapered axle drums which require a drum puller, to the later style removable drums. Not exactly the same type of conversion as what we are dealing with.