thrashingcows

Thank you for the help. I did search the internet last night...and even read through the Stant website...I could not find refrence to it being vented or not. That is why I asked the question...not for a lack of trying on my part. Maybe just missed it. So it appears that the Stant 10623 cap IS VENTED. I would assume then that any Stant cap listed for our cars would be vented as well. Hope this info becomes useful to someone.

I've been searching through the archives and have not been able to find a satisfactory answer to my question. I need a new gas/fuel cap for my 48 Desoto...and have found that a Stant 10623 is a direct replacement. Now is this stant cap vented or not? I see many members make references to getting a vented cap to solve fuel supply issues and such, but no one ever supplies a maker, or part number. I don't want to waste my time, and money, getting the wrong cap.

I was looking at my deteriorating windlace last night....think this will do the trick. I'll also order some for my old Chrysler wagon too. Thanks fo the info, and link!!

I was not going to put in the roll over valve assembly...simply because of that space difference. If you run a vented gas cap it should be OK. But out of curiousity...where did you mount the roll over valve?

I'll be a good little lemming and follow the crowd....but seriously that Olds is sweet!! The vette is nice, but has no where near the character that old olds has. I'd swap the vette for that olds in a heart beat too.

Yup the new and "improoved" site is crap!! I do not like it at all. One night it took me almost 2 hours to upload a few pics , and then get the codes to put the pics in the threads I was working on. The old site it might have taken me 30 min at most. I have selected the option to go back to the old format...but everytime I go back to the site it takes me to the "new" and I have to do it all over again.

Thank you!....and your very welcome...I do these pics and info with the hopes that someone will now be able to tackle that project they might not have wanted to do. Rockwood....thank you for the pics of your tank, appreciate it. I'm assuming the reason you set your tank down, away from the body, was to clear the 90* elbow fitting that came out of the tank, for the roll over valve assembly?

Happy New Year to everyone here on the site. Hope we all have another safe and productive year...in our lives, and our hobby. Cheers!!

Wow Slick...that is a nice looking panel you have there!! Gues you "HAD" to bag it to get it into the garage...lol..

Thanks for the good review on the tank. It sure looks to be a nice tank though.

Now to get it into the tank. I tried to get it to go through the hole in the tank with the float arm fastened securely in place...nope would not go. So I had to loosen the arm from the clips, but still keep it through the pivot points, and then feed it down into the tank carefully. Then once the float arm was down inside the tank I had to carefully snap it back into place. Once this was done then it was just screw it down. I used the gasket, and screws that came with the tank. The sending unit came with a gasket and screws as well. All done!! From start to finish probably took me about 30 minutes....not tough at all. Now to get the tank installed in the car.

I just had to zip tie the wiring tight, and out of the way, and it was all done. It's a bit tough to snap the arm tight into place, but the use of so large channel lock pliers, and some finesse will pop everything into place.

Now I had to cut the excess off off the main body, and measure and bend the float arm. I measure 4" from the center of the float back and made a mark. Then I made another mark at 5", since I would have to cut the arm, and then bend it to 90* at eh 4" mark. As well as that extra goes through the center of the meter and fastens everything tight at the pivot point. I put the float arm rod in the vise, and then gently tapped it until it was about at 90*....You will also need to file the end you cut to take off any rough metal edges, so it will slide through the meter easily.

When I finished getting it together, I noticed that the sender was sitting crooked...it turned out since I flipped it around the upper screw was now hitting the solid center and causing it to twist up. I thought about drilling a hole to clear the screw, but then decided to find a small nut that would space the screw out farther, but still allow it to mount properly. Hit my bucket-O-bolts and found one in short order.

SO since this is a universal sending unit, I would need to modify it to fit the new tank. First I had to measure the depth of the tank. The tank measured out at 8", and with the gasket about 8.125". So according to the instruction sheet, it vaguely tells you what length to cut things. So I had to cut it about 4" from the under side of the top down to the pivot point. And then the float arm needs to be cut, and bent to about the same. So first of I had to disassemble the unit. Cut the tie straps, and unscrewed everything. Then I measured down the 4" and saw that I would need to flip the mount around so the pivot point would be sitting at the 4" mark. And since I wanted the ohm range switched around I just flipped it upside down and mounted it. Now it will read 10 ohms full, and 90 ohms empty....perfect!!

Alright...I got my new universal fuel sender unit...it is listed as a 5 hole sending unit, with a 0 ohm =Empty, and 90 ohms = full, and good for a 6" to 24" deep tank. For a stock mopar gauge it is the opposite, 90 ohms = empty, and 10 ohms = full. But I will address what I did to remedy this, and how I made it work for my new tank. So here is the sending unit as I received it.

Well my guess would have been WAY OFF...I was going to say an early Jeep.... But I think Tim nailed it!! Great pic...and great info...Thanks!! Always love to learn new things about any of these old cars.

Wish I was closer...I owe a service like this. Guy helped me get a visor for my Desoto, so I'm always looking for an opportunity to pass it forward.

....that is so true.... But welcome to the board mopar 440_6...beautiful car you, and your grandfather started together. Great that you have a family history with the car...makes it that much more special.

Personally I am going to use a power window motor to run my windshield wipers. Sure it won't have a "park" feature...but really how often am I actually going to use them? I know this will require a little engineering to make it work...but there are many different PW motors available at the wreckers, so figure I can find something that will work.

Thak you for the kind words. Would love to meet you on the road with the Desoto...but think it's still a couple years away before I get the car to that point.

Sure do like you car....Looks great in those snow pics. Thanks for sharing.

And finally a video of the car running...with sound this time. Sorry about the darkness...have the back drums apart trying to fix some problems, so can't back the car outside. http://s697.beta.photobucket.com/user/thrashingcows/media/Desoto/VID-20121209-00002_zpsf5a892b9.mp4.html

I'm still running the car off a fuel gan in the trunk...but I did just recieve my new gas tank. It's the steel replacement from Tank Inc for the 46-48 Dodge and Plymouth, but should work well in my Desoto... and it's a very nice unit!! Wasn't sure if it would have the fuel outlet in the left front lower corner of the tank, so I didn't order a new fuel sending unit. It does BTW...and now I have to get a new universal tank sending unit. Very complete kit though...came with everything, less sending unit. Even has universal tank straps. Got it through E-bay. Couple pics....