ptwothree
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Everything posted by ptwothree
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Thanks for all the suggestions.....I can't justify buying a set of plug sockets...They are available individually on the net but the shipping is a killer. I tried grinding down a short 3/8 extension.... twisted it like a pretzel. Grinding down a Gr 8 cap screw seems viable. One thing for sure; I'll replace these things with a hex plug knowing that points will probably be deducted at the next Concourse....
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Of course...why didn't I think of that.... Good! Info I can use....the 5/16 part is what I was looking for. Will probably make a tool out of a 3/8 impact extension.....Thanks!! No offense taken! Although I was tempted to be a smart a$$ myself when I saw you hail from a town called LOVEland. I take it then, that these plugs were different before the war...something you could use a right handed 8" Crescent on??
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this is a recessed square plug..a 1/4"drive is too small and a 3/8 is too big. I have to pull these to clean out the oil galley that runs front to back on the distributor side of the block...If anyone know's, it would sure beat taking the block to the hardware store to find out.....
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What tool to use to remove the oil galley plugs on a 218? Looks like a square tool of some kind but what size??
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If it's hard to shift with the engine off, it's probably a shift linkage problem. Try some PB Blaster or something to loosen it up. If the shifter moves freely then it is more likely a problem with the clutch or trans. And , get a shop manual and read every square inch of this website....
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excessive brake dust buildup between drums and lining can cause this condition too. Anyone ever notice the noisy brakes on mopar taxi cabs seen in movies of the 40's and 50's?
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Worn distributor shaft bushings will also cause a waver of a dwell meter reading as well. You might also try another condenser. They have got so bad (failure rate) that I have gone the Pertronix route and never looked back.......
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Joe, did you test the sender with your gauge prior to installing it? How'd it check out then. What does the gauge read when you disconnect the wire to the sender and ground it with the ign. switch on? Might be a clue in here somewhere...........
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On the road again....finally with good brakes
ptwothree replied to oldodge41's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Ok...the FD splains that. How much longer does it take to get to cruising speed with the 3.27 as opposed to stock gearing? -
On the road again....finally with good brakes
ptwothree replied to oldodge41's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I think you are about to find out why a 3.27 ratio wasn't offered from the factory.....the first time you try to start off on a hill.....Btw, what's the rear out of?? -
I'll check into that .....I need one too.....I'm bet that the 'break' will be somewhere between zero and nil..
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+ $12 shipping....
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get a mac and be happy!
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miss timed powershift??
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I got mine for $40 at O'Reilly's internal bypass for a '51 218....
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Once you start to fool around with trying to clean up that goo, you will never get it all unless you take the motor completely apart to get it all. If you don't, the bits and pieces you miss will end up wearing out pistons, rings, bearings etc. Save yourself some heart ache, labor and cash and either fix it right or leave it alone. You also might want to check the thermostat; might be stuck open. If not then someone hasn't been changing the oil on the old girl.... Good Luck
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Would this also work for the 6 volt radio?
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You should unbolt everything thats unboltable and take those parts you want cleaned to the shop doing the rebuild....or clean 'em yourself while waiting for the engine to come back. The more things they have to do, the more $$$ you will spend. I would at least try to decrud as much of it as you can before sending it out. Just my 2 sense
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Thanks Jim.....I don't do much concrete stuff so never heard of this...Looks like it ought to do the trick....Thanks!!
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A Dremel with a wire wheel should work well.....
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I'd say if you live in a high humidity part of the country to take it apart enough to determine if it has any corrosion and what that white grease has morphed into. Might have some stuck valves too. Could possibly use a new gasket or two. I once had a furd flat 8 that developed a stuck intake valve from sitting too long..Popped thru the carb till a can of Rislone fixed it.
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Nice! Where would one acquire a "steel anchor jacket?":confused: A steel anchor jacket store? I'm trying to find one that fits an air hammer.....
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I pm'ed you regarding that...
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I'm in the process of putting my 218 back together and I'm in need of a source for a valve guide driver.....anyone know of any tool companies selling such a thing? I ordered one from Hands on Tools 2 wks ago but they are on back order. Any help is appreciated as this project is on hold till I get this sorted...
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"Everything worked fine before except the starter draged." Next time you try to start it, hold the key on start a few seconds after you lose power and then put your hand on the case of the starter..If it is hot to the touch, it's got a bad armature... I'm betting it's a bad rebuild .. just my 2 sense