41/53dodges

This is the problem with T5 swaps, the speedometer. GM had to do things the hard way for sure... now if there were a good alternative to cable drive other than the $300+ cable-x units, then we could have something!

Cable drives were last used in 1987, then there were a select few that worked as you describe that can be switched, but they quickly switched to a design that cannot be converted. There arent too many good old wrecking yards around here except the one with the 4x4 trannies, and thats all they have for t5.

Once again, cost factor comes in. Dont the digital dashes cost around 500+?

Around here I only find later electric models or 4x4 ones, never a nice s10 2wd with mechanical speedo. i can grab the 4x4 ones for $100 with their case, or around $500 for a 2wd version. Thats my motive here. Massive pain, but its the problem of cost and availability. Not saying to definately build a 4x4, just to use the parts available.

So nothing? Not even any ideas?

Full flow oiling won't gain anything appreciable. It's really nice to have on some engines, but since an engine really doesn't create much crap in the oil for a given amount of time the filter keeps up just fine. Another perk, seeing as the filter only filters the excess pressure from the pump, it is allowed to have a finer filter, that's why a bypass filter kit is available for modern vehicles too, particularly highway trucks and such. I think Don and Merle have the oil modding thing taken care of, but like they said stock is pretty much the best formation except for super high performance. These old flatties were darn near indestructable as-is, with the addition of modern oils I could easily see one lasting well over 100k. PS -I think it's the chevy stovebolts that had oiling issues, those have come up a time or two on here -Josh

It seems in this neck of the woods it's pretty difficult to find a T5, more so one in an S10, and even more so one that's 2WD! So I wonder, with some minor modifications could a 4x4 with it's transfer case be wedged in under the truck? It wouldn't be too hard to shorten the tail housing on the trans, and certainly has it's perks... If you are wondering, why is Josh asking an overcomplicated question about installing unnecessary hardware? -They are cheaper -They are much more common -Transfer cases tend to offer cable drives, or are easier to get that way -They tend to have high/low range, good for putting around the yard or going against a bulldozer in a tug-of-war -If I ever decide to make a 4x4 half the work is already done! So the question here is, how long can the transmission be before it hits something? Like the fuel tank for example!

I have often contemplated a jeep 4.0, but the 53' already does ok on its own! maybe later down the road...

It's been said before and will probably be said again, but radial tires are in my opinion the best thing for the ride

Whats sad is the local excavating company here in Platteville just scrapped a really nice original Freuhaff trailer last year, one of the old low movers style ones! Nice looking truck btw, wish I could have myself an old tractor but dont think the WF32 (41' 1.5 ton) would really cut it!

Now that is lucky! see what ignition can do to you? So when the rotor came around did it contact the wire? That would explain it acting just like my truck! Now did this have any long-term effects on the motor or is it back to running like an old flathead again?

Well I know its a fluid drive at least!

I'm taking it these trucks don't have a title? They look halfway usable, better than mine looked when I started! If I were closer I'd look into em, but i've got my eye on a 48' with a fluid drive! Now if I can get it before they scrap it...

Sounds like the gauge, maybe try hitting the dash and see if the needle shakes? I've had it where i get a needle that I accidentally bent one way or another and it gets stuck on the glass or the gauge face. just a simple test that's free!

"Ever since that time I’ve noticed a loss of power as if the truck was running on 5 cylinders. It seemed for lack of a better description to be “chugging”. I thought about the timing being too retarded or maybe a loose ignition wire or a fouled plug" Now that I think about it, I had this exact same issue! going about 60 to menards and lost a cylinder, started needing more and more throttle to keep up and the truck was shaking bad. By the time I got to a good place to pull off it was floored to keep up to traffic! come to find out, the ignition coil fell out of it's little clamp and knocked the #4 spark plug wire out of the distributor, causing a heck of a miss. Put it back and all was well! "Under load the power loss seemed to become progressively worse during the ride and after running up a long incline I heard a distinct knocking noise" Same with mine, I didn't get any knocking though. When a cylinder is misfiring constantly, it is just washing the cylinder walls down with fuel, which is not very lubricative. This is where the damage could be done, does the oil smell funny at all? someone on here awhile back did some serious damage to the bottom end from a faulty fuel pump dumping gas in the oil. Good luck! -Josh

53' half ton running 215-85r16 and a 3.55 jeep axle and stock 3 speed, on a high speed run on a nice straight road ive hit 80, but I wouldnt recommend trying to drive like that on stock suspension and brakes. Its a good experience, but dont do that often...

Check if the guage is getting power, then take a voltage reading across the gauge, that should say whether or not the circuit is open. Or perhaps its wired backwards. If it was a full tank it would say the exact opposite!

Actually thats not too far out from here, be a good days trip at least! Wonder if I could get my brother to come out with his pickup and haul it back? You wouldnt happen to have any idea on prices would you? Honestly I just need toeboards and the front corners where the mounts are

Duh, thanks Ed. Im gonna go sit in the corner now.

Where was this yard? I could really use a better cab if it's anywhere within a decent distance, my floor corners are pretty well shot. Rear fenders would be great too, the big boxy ones. Thanks -Josh

Huh , learn something new every day! Thanks for the lesson in trucks!

You're right Don, that thing is complicated. Did anybody else notice 2 driveshafts going back? What was that masterpiece called anyway?

Indeed, but im not sure hydraulic steering was quite there yet in the 50's, was it? Most cement trucks have hydraulic lines, this would almost have to have a mechanical link of some sort to the back. Either way, interesting piece of engineering for sure!

That farthest back axle looks like a regular front axle judging by the lack of a drive hub, wonder if it steers? Man, that would be complicated

I have to agree here, soundss like something really got hurt. At least it doesn't sound like a thrown rod or something along those lines, that would be significantly more obvious I would think.