41/53dodges

For those of us that are having radiator issues, putting in a bigger engine, or just want a bigger radiator and you don't mind using an aftermarket part, here is a writeup for Griffin universal radiators. Now in my situation, I used a Griffin model 1-272DF-AXX. It is a universal aftermarket meant primarily for rat rods but it fits the bill. http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details12.php?PartID=759&key_id=1-272DF-AXX&year=All&make=Universal%20Fit&model=Rat%20Rod%20Radiator Now the problem with this particular model is it is WAY TOO TALL. THE COMPANY'S DIMENSIONS SHOW IT AS SMALLER THAN IT IS. To use this one I had to make some modifications to pretty much everything, including modifying the bracket on the front for the fenders. JUST GET A SHORTER MODEL, IT WILL SAVE YOU SO MANY HEADACHES! Here is a nice page of options! http://www.griffinrad.com/RatRods/index.php?tid=14 Now, The list of things to do: Originally this radiator comes with the filler in the center, it must be moved to one side or the other, or just deal with it. I had it moved. You need to fab up and weld some aluminum brackets. not the worst thing to do if you have the resources. The top hose is different size and different place, you need a new thermostat housing. It is a factory part from NAPA The lower radiator hose is a larger size. It can be adapted any way you like, I machined an aluminum adapter. Now this is a lot of work, but when you are done that truck should never overheat again!

I will work on a write up tomorrow! I will likely put it in the tech archives along with a detailed t5 writeup if anybody's interested.

Sweet, I should be able to work with those numbers. I never realized just how much advance these motors ran with. Thanks guys!

I cant think of any around here, and im hanging on to mine! I would personally recommend an aluminum universal radiator from champion, thats what I installed. Its not a perfect swap and you need some aluminum welding to add brackets, but the end is never needing to worry about heat again! I can tell you about my adapting process if you're interested, just ask!

Depends on the type of pump! I use what we refer to as a "diddle" pump, which is a solenoid pump that can only pump up to a certain pressure. Modern cars use gerotor pumps that like lots of pressure an no lift, needing a regulator unlike the diddle pumps. For the cover I was lucky enough to find a factory cover, which is pretty thick so it doesnt distor the gasket

That should work, just an fyi I think the 3 bolt plate seperates from the motor with 2 screws, or something along those lines. Good luck, and let us know what you find! -4153dodges

Can't say I do, it was likely 80s-90s though, a guy gave it to me in a pile of stuff

Does anyone have a graph of the timing curves on our flatheads? I'm working on some computer stuff now and need to see the curve. Thanks! -josh

I have the fresh air heater, forget the model but the core is under the hood and blower inside the cab. I got lucky enough to have a 12v motor laying around from an old GM van that bolted straight in. Could visit an old electronics store and find a motor to make it fit.

I think these came up before, but I remember em costing more... looks pretty sweet though! Let us know how it works out!

For those of you who have the T5 installed, did anyone find a junkyard driveshaft to use or are they all shortened factory shafts?

I myself am a huge advocate for plastic tanks, seeing as they never rot. I also think a more universal sender mount like a 5 bolt would be good. if I needed a tank I would be in line for one!

Oooh, pretty! Youve got a good looking truck there! You have locking ring wheels, safe as long as you clean the rust and make sure theyre assembled right. Most tire shops wont do anything with em, but they arent hard to do yourself once you figure then out, but they are safe. The suicide rims are firestone RHB5, chevy and ford used em, never dodge from the factory. Now they do show up from time to time, but other people put them on.

Sounds like a variation in pressures. That or you got some junk in the carb while you were switching the pump. Try resetting the float level.

like Hank said, check for viruses or other fun pieces of work...

When we say not to crank for extended periods, we mean minutes at a time. Mother Mopar really got a good starter, feel free to crank away! treat it like most any other vehicle in regards to starting.

Keep the stock 6v starter. It will spin the engine over faster and fire up better. Mine has no issue firing up in winter because of this. Plus little do most people know, but if you try and turn a starte motor continuously it will burn up anyways, so 12v wont hurt. -josh Come to think of it isnt there a sticky about this somewhere?

If someone could redo the speedos to run electric this wouldn't be such a problem! But I bet any of that would be spendy

UPDATE: So I got the parts home and tore into them, that tranny was shot. Really I should have known that since I couldnt move anything on it, but it turned out to be full of ice, plus all the bearings are shot! So much for a good tranny! Plus as it turns out, somebody went into one of the transfer cases (the dana 18 for parts) and stole the high gear out of it, and then put it back together! It's sad, this was out of the yard owner's personal truck. Evidently this isn't the first time this kind of crap has happened. But the positives: I have successfully assembled a 2wd T5 from the good parts in that one, plus I now have a good and complete dana 20 sitting around if anybody's interested. Now if I ever get the rest of the stolen parts, this may come back again!

And so it begins... I dropped by the yard this evening and grabbed: s10 T5 Dana 20 transfer case spare transfer case for parts 3 beer boxes a really crappy old shirt (all to save my roommate's trunk) All of this was $100, so I can experiment and sell parts off if it doesn't work Is anybody interested in me posting pics when I get to playing with this or should i save the forum's space?

Can't say I've had that problem! I also wear size 11, maybe that one size down counts!

I suppose I ought to clarify a tad, I'm kind of on a first name basis with the yard owners, so I tend to get pretty fgood deals from them. As for explaining the trannies, the 2 4x4 transmissions are from 80s s10s with blown up 2.8s, they said they have taken in around 50 over the years for blown motors. Remarkably there are no 2wd ones there though, so that kinda explains my supply. Fyi, nobody really likes the s10 around here for whatever odd reason, its all about either jeeps or jacked up compensators.

I can do the shipping but I cant do the cold one!

Without concern for speedometer, I think any s10 with a v6 would work, but I'm not 100% sure there...

The issue isn't finding the right ratio, the issue is finding a cable driven one to begin with! Most after 87' are electric drive and cannot readily be converted. So the luck of the irish is still pretty helpful here!