41/53dodges

seeing as i am screwed there, could one just weld the split ring to the rim and do it like a normal 1-piece rim?

something to be said for trucks with a crankstart.

anybody know how to tell the difference?

yes, they fit up fine with the original plates, have the same lug pattern, same width, just need different bearings or sleeves to make the ones it comes with fit. they are jut a little narrower, so the wheels sit in about 1/2" on each side from stock. the seals are perfect size, also. i still do recommend doing the fine measurements. these drums are at northern for $100 a pair! here is the link to them. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200323378_200323378 i am going to try this for sure as soon as the sleeves come back from the shop, so it should be done monday or teusday to tell for sure if anybody's interested, a 1996 jeep cherokee rear end will mount up nicely in the back with some new leaf spring saddles from northern. the u-joint is the EXACT same and no mods to the shaft are required. NO MORE $500 BRAKE DRUMS!

do you know the bore or stroke?

tires and at least one rim are shot. NO part of the drive train is still submerged in dirt. the park brake is stuck, thankfully in "off", because i can still move the driveshaft a little. i talked to a man who offered me some old wheels of the same type with old tires that still hold air for $50 apiece, but they are split rims. are there any split rims that are not widowmakers?

Never forget to check the blinker fluid!

as you can see, it is kind of long. [attach]15202[/attach] [attach]15203[/attach]

im not sure i could remove the brake drums without some HUGE fancy tools. just the lugs are 1.5". any ideas to just break the rears free? the fronts kind of turn already. as for those of you concerned about pulling out the axle, the truck was pulled into the woods forward, so it has to come out backward. anybody have any ideas where to get brake parts for something with about 18" drums? and, more pictures coming right up. BTW, that looks like the same model truck, WF-32, 1.5 ton?

problem with the sliding ideas is the fact that this is not a small truck, and there are large humps that have to be traversed, so plywood would get stuck on these humps. and the problem with the idea of a 4x4 is the fact that the farmer already offered his services for free. the truck is already dug out, these pictures are from last year. i have been slowly working on freeing everything up on it for the last year where it sits, so i was planning on freeing up the rear end somehow and putting wheels on to pull it. any suggestions for breaking the rear end loose that would leave the internal parts still useable?

well- to my surprise, the 10 inch brake drums from northern tool actually seem to fit perfectly with the rest of the stock brake parts and some new bearings. thanks for the help anyways:)

a heated seat to prevent frost would be nice too. trust me.

its kind of hard to bring in a trailer, the truck is about 100ft into the woods over rough terrain, but it could be pulled with the neighbor's tractor. on top of that, there is nothing around to lift up from. would it work better to put some wheels that hold air on it and pull it out? and to answer the question about the floor- its rotted out. the funny thing though, is the gas tank is still in prestine condition!

sorry- trying to stick to drum, keeping the original MC. that, and i am at a huge lack of funds

kind of wondering if any of you guys with some salvage experience had any tips on pulling a 41' dodge WF-32 out of the woods. it has been there for 30 years, and only one wheel turns. there is one wheel that is still holding pressure, rotted out split rim. should i stab the tire for my own and the trucks good to prevent an explosion or bent frame? how should one go about pulling one of these trucks out? any ideas appreciated. im kinda new to this.

i was just wondering if there were any people out there who had experience with converting the pilothouse B-4 1/2 ton front brakes to something more modern. we were going to stay stock, but we found out that the drums are shot and new ones are $500 NOS each. we were looking for some more modern drum brakes that could be adapted to fit that DONT have an astronomical price tag. not sure whether to just swap the whole front axle with something, or find something that could replace the original brakes with the same spindles. almost thinking universal trailer brakes could be adapted? any help would be appreciated.