41/53dodges

I did, but that doesnt really effect this starter. We added a return spring now so it cant slide around all over the place

Indeed there are! And both still intact. It almost seems as though the contact box does not push it out far enough, from the housing to the little cup that the lever hits is about 1", does this sound about right?

Does anybody else have an issue with the starter lever "falling"down and allowing the starter gear sit and bounce off the ring gear while the truck is running? Ive pulled the starter apart, and theres no evidence of any return spring except the one on the contact box, any ideas?

Doesnt take a whole lot to build a reliable truck out of these, fire it up and drive! A 96'Cherokee rear axle worked for me, and kingpins will do wonders.

Not to tell you what to do, but a 1 tonner in that kind of shape is almost too nice to mod up, it seems like most things are fairly simple fixes on this truck. Why not build it up as a runner and try to find something good to modify, a larger 1.5 tonner would be much more apt to taking on a 6BT anyhow simply for it's weight rating and large stature. If you look around online, a guy took a WF32 (like mine, look through the truck gallery) and installed a 6BT and some new axles. killer project, saves some work in the long run, and much more useful in the end. I have a soft spot for the 40's dodges if you havent noticed -Josh

My spare has that too, maybe just indicating a particular casting or assembly line to trace back problems?

Sent you a private message

I've been noticing that dealers tend to just list off all sorts of makes and models on their listings, making crap like this happen in hopes you will buy their junk

If all else fails the cherokee axle swap is a great option, plus more economical in some cases

Thats what I needed, Thank you sir!

Well thanks for the tip! Now my biggest question is still, does a normal new style thermostat work on our engines? I though there was something awhile back about it interfering when it tries to open

hmmm... Thats pretty odd. Nowhere have I seen this information! Good thing I am only going to run a 6 lb cap, for the heater cores sake. So it sounds like you have experience with griffin, other than that is there anything wrong with them?

Ive got the radiator, a pretty nice griffin aluminum job (if the stupid thing ever ships!) And it just seems to me that adapting on the engine end would be better than the expensive new radiator end, hence the new thermostat housing.

Thanks Jeff, but this is not a stock replacement. this is for a different size hose for an aftermarket radiator. And Merle, luckily this is an internal bypass motor, so no issues there!

So I think I figured out the fuel issue, the float was almost 1/8" too high, allowing fuel to seep down the sides of the carb, plus Ive noticed that even though the tank was full, fuel is sloshing in it. so that means it really never is full due to the lack of a vent! Now the real issue I need to address, I'm sure youve seen the picture of my radiator, so I ordered a new one and while I wait I'm going through everything to prevent this, but i still need to adapt the radiator. The top inlet is 1.5" and points straight back, which calls for a straight thermostat housing too. I read that a 64 and up mopar v8 housing (like the one below) as a similar bolt pattern and thermostat diameter, but the correct hose placement and size. Can anybody confirm this? Also, the old style thermostat likely wouldnt work here, so a new style would be needed. any issue there? Thanks, Josh http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectre-4739-Straight-Chrome-Thermostat-Housing-/400472731516?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3e08ef7c&vxp=mtr

Coming right along! What is that guage on the dash and the big knob? i always loved period add-ons like that! even though they cut up the dash...

Love it! It's definately a 1 ton, large 6 bolt pattern gives it away. It sounds to me like that is the correct model for a 1 ton fargo, but to answer your question it can be common to find a frankenstein. A friend of mine has alot of old trucks from a cranberry bog shut down in the 70's, most of their trucks were frankensteined together with whatever they could to get by! whether it be an axle, engine, or just slap the body on another chassis, if it had to be done it was. -Josh

Posted all for your entertainment!

I can't really help with the gauge, I had to modify one to work but parts are scarce in these parts! you may have better luck on the truck side of the forum, go to the top of the page, click "forum", go to the pilothouse forum, directly below p15-d24 forum. Hope this helps! Josh

It was all bolted down properly, but after 5 minutes of driving its really unstable now... plus It looks to me like the adapter brackets also bent back allowing the radiator to be eaten

Had all four in, just dropped two of them removing it, but it had those four spacers put it and tightened down nicely. Actually this is a new issue! never had this happen before or any sign of it, but it was likely the entire front clip shifting, it seems a tad unstable right now. I'l find the issue, for now enjoy the picture!

This was the radiator we had adapted into my PH. it worked, but not for truck duty. never had an issue in the last 400 miles!

took it out for a test run, pulled onto the road and hit the gas, suddenly water hit the windshield! not sure why it did that, the radiator and everything was still bolted up nicely to the frame. And yes, the fan was still attached as it was supposed to be. the radiator just came back into the fan for whatever odd reason

sorry, photos wouldnt upload

Think I can still save it?