41/53dodges

it depends, i get pleasure from making people who think they know it all look as stupid as they are, sorry to be a dick about it, but its the truth. "attitude adjustments" can be fun, to the adjuster!

i love how people underestimate autozone! most of my parts for both trucks came from there. you just have to be a little creative as far as research

mine were doing that too, but that was due to peeling friction material, came off the shoe!

PH cabs are much more roomy in my experience, i have no clue about PW, and my 41' that was pictured earlier has great legroom and headroom, but i use a cinder block for a seat! i think that PW and civilian trucks of the period used the same cab.

I'm thinking that either you or an associate are experienced in machine work. THERE IS A CERTAIN SOMEBODY WHO KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT MACHINING THAT BUILT HIS OWN STEAM ENGINE:D For you, I'm sure the parts are probably simple enough to make and its the tolerance thats critically important. I'm assuming the cutting of the spindles and the hot pressing is done with the spindles off the vehicle. MAYBE... Is there another way like use a deeper cap that would eliminate the need to modify the spindles? What method/tool was used to remove the 1/2" from the spindle ends? I DO HAVE A VEEERY SPECIAL TOOL JUST FOR SHORTENING SPINDLES, ITS CALLED A SAWZALL! Do you have any desire to personally make these shim kits available? If not would you be willing to share the specifications and how-to instructions? IF SOME PEOPLE SHOW INTEREST IN THIS, I MAY START MACHINING KITS FOR THIS. IM SURE SOME CARS COULD USE THIS, BUT IM UNSURE WHICH. Thanks, Great Work! THANK YOU, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

i dont know the thickness right now, i left the design sheet in the garage. these shims would be something that needs to be machined line-to-line, in other words, to the thousandth. if they start rotating on the spindle instead of the bearing, bad things will happen. mine are made so that they were hot-pressed on. i believe we had to take off about .5" from the spindle, i dont know about the old caps, mine were destroyed. i will get back with the measurements, though.

or add a big resistor

took me long enough, but i finally put together pics! hopefully, somebody finds these helpful! now, if i can find a replacement for those pesky 18" truck drums....

ITS LIKE CHRISTMAS! why is it you find a dozen lights on one truck, but i find a dozen trucks with no lights?

i would buy it if i were you! i love the 39-47 civilian look, hence why i have the big truck, but 2 is enough, for now....

2" OD was exactly what i was thinking to begin with. makes the fishmouthing tubes easy with the mills at school.

that basically just told me the engine should run 1.25" pipes. i somehow dont think thats right. maybe that size per cylinder...

school says that his site is "UNKNOWN", so it automatically blocks it. yet, i can still get the forum in my free time.

i know, im just looking into it in case, that, and for others who may uses said info. the 53' smoked badly when we first got it going, but after about 1.5 HRs of run time, it started getting better.

lucky you!

lack of $, excess of projects, i have to do everything myself, but i do have access to a machine shop...

congrats. i hope to drive truck, someday...

i was thinking about building a set similar to this "stock replacement" one as you call it in design, but split into 3's. here's a picture of moose's (thank you) http://www.manifoldsbymoose.com/manifoldsbymoose/D-P_Combos.html#8 i had a picture of the 3-d design i made, but the site seems to hate it for some odd reason.

i will have to pull the pan anyways, it needs to be swapped for a rear sump. once it warms up outside, i will hook up a garden hose to it so it can run for extended periods. about an hour or two run time should be enough to get it all "run in" again, loosen rings, etc. by then, i should have gotten the other pan and switched it.

i found those, but i am wondering if they are the exact same as original or are there more durable ones? right now im just looking for in case your old engine needs em'. got it going for about 5 seconds, and the darn thing smoked like hell! its probably just due to stuck rings and the oil i have to put into the cylinders for enough compression to start.

are there any newer-model rings that would fit a stock 218? just kinda curious, one of the trucks will need em' someday.

were these 2 or 4 strokes? 2 strokes are much more fickle with the exhaust system.

i already designed a crude one using a program called "inventor" it would be built with plain stainless exhaust tubing, fishmouthed and welded together in sets. originally, i was thinking i should use some more "aerodynamic" designs, but with this situation, i am thinking it might not really matter. what do you think?

im working on currently designing a dual exhaust, and need to know whether i should connect all 6 cylinders and have 2 pipes running off of them or separate them into 1-3 and 3-6 also, if i started selling these, what would be a good asking price for them?

im working on currently designing a dual exhaust, and need to know whether i should connect all 6 cylinders and have 2 pipes running off of them or separate them into 1-3 and 3-6 also, if i started selling these, what would be a good asking price for them?