41/53dodges

yeah, good for just the truck but using it for any real work may require the lower 3.73 gears, but thats not the end of the world.

well crap, I only want to swap transmissions if I can have an overdrive, so that means T5. only problem, the lowest 1st I can find is about 4:1, which isn't much better than the 3.5:1 that the 3 speed has...

alright guys, yet another good question to pick your brains about. my 53' is stock with a 3 on the tree, only drive train mod is the 3.55 rear and I installed for better brakes and ratios. Will the 3 speed be low enough to take off decently with the trailer, or will I want to look into getting a four or five speed stick to replace the old column shifter?

Alright, so if I decided to move forward on this, I would have the extra parts laying around I would want to sell and hopefully recover my money from them, would anybody be interested? -front axle- has all new brakes, drums, bearings, king pins, paint -rear axle (chrysler 8.25 jeep cherokee axle, 3.55 ratio) already adapted to fit a stock PH suspension -set of 4 stock rims and 215/85-16 truck tires -3 speed column transmission and controls What does everybody think these parts would be worth? Hopefully it would cover my losses and make it an almost even upgrade!

OK, so what do you guys think of a 4 speed stick, 2 speed transfer case, 230 flatheade, dana 44 6 lugs front and back with chevy steel rims?

Has anybody built their own 4x4 pilothouse? Not so much a heavily modfied monster truck, just replacing axles and adding a different transmission and transfer case. I have been thinking about doing this, a buddy of mine is willing to give me some dana 44's if i can use them, plus the trans out of an IH scout. should be able to mildly modify the bellhousing to use the stock engine (if i cant have a flathead, forget it!) so does anybody have any experience here? Thanks, Josh

Thank you!

Hey guys, Does anybody happen to have any idea how wide the factory axles are on a 53' half ton? from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface please!

Thanks for all the info guys, I never really thought about the insurance aspect of this! For now, it would be likely to get standard plates and insurance. Scruffy brings up a good point, they were pulling these trailers when they were new! Heck, the ads show a similar trailer being pulled by a guy on a bicycle! So, as far as everything goes, my biggest question is enough power to do it! Which, i think by the sound of it it would work so long as i stay off the freeway!

The thingy on the forum page kinda left the whole thing gray and said 0 views 0 responses, so it looked like it wasnt online or something? anyways, it works now!

Hmmm... is there a reason nobody seems to see this? not sure if thingy broken or just nobody looked at it, so lets bring it up top again!

hello all, While i was home for winter break, the 53' got a few upgrades. A buddy of mine from work gave me a class 5 hitch, so that got adapted on, as did some slightly tamed down 1 ton springs, so now I'm figuring what to do with it! a buddy of mine offered me a 22ft 50's Airstream he has laying around for $250, its beat to crap, but its an airstream! now the question is, how would the truck handle it? it has a stock engine and 3 speed, but upgraded to a jeep rear axle. specs say the trailer is around 2800 lbs, should have electric brakes. Heres a brochure for it: http://www.airstream.com/files/library/dd455670a7af275f.pdf Thanks guys, if this works out and anybody wants, I will post pics of the project! -Josh

Hello all, I have a pair of original doors from my 53' project I want to get rid of. They have the windows, passenger side is cracked. no inside knobs or anything, no lock, so on so forth. The window regulator and latch mechanism are still in full working order however. The metal is kinda thin and rotted through in some places, but usable. Whoever wants them, please come get them, free to a good home. shoot me a call or text if you are interested! a PM works too, but I'm not on here daily. Josh 262-496-8104

They are not the exact same, but they are interchangable. as far as I know, there is only one difference between the two styles. The line that follows the fender back on the door is longer on the B1/B2 series, B3/B4 the line ends mid-door. I personally think the early doors on a later truck looks better than factory!

talk about scaring Chris, how about scaring the crap outta me! It's pretty scary to see a pair of huge I-beams bend about an inch trying to knock these pins out, while I hafta hold up the other end of the axle! when they finally went, they made an incredible bang that shook the whole factory! Now, don't let my story scare you one bit. this truck sat in a cow pasture for about 4 decades, even the steering was seized up when I got it! Anybody have any stories of trucks like that they resurrected?

ah, thank you guys for all the tips! just to clarify a few things, I already have a turbo laying around, one out of a 1.8 litre subaru, and those were supposed to make boost around 2200 RPM factory. I bought it for $10 just to dick around with, the engine was toast, as were about a half dozen others in that same yard (all from the same family, died of no oil...) the turbo was siezed, so it was just a nifty paperweight. turns out, the same dipstick that ran it out of oil put RTV in the compressor turbine, so evidently it never ran for most of it's life if at all! so, now I have a perfectly good turbo laying around, some spare manifolds, and now a perfectly good holley 1904 glass bowl to go with it! so, this project is a "why the heck not?!" thing.

does a 200 ton press count as easy?

Has anybody turbocharged a flathead using their stock carburetor? I would like to leave the intake manifold untouched and use the factory carter BBR-1 carburetor with a blow-through setup, running about 7LBS boost. anybody see any issue with this?

or how about something like this! if it can handle the torque of a drive shaft, then it should take linking a pair of 218's together pretty well! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-BMW-E36-Drive-Shaft-Flex-Disc-26-11-1-227-410-New-/350494986339?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item519b211063&vxp=mtr

I won't say, but i will say this... I havent the slightest clue what to do with this thing if I build it!

Im not likely to actually build this beast, but i might mocksomething up with my scrap engines downstairs just for my own entertainment! I can figure out just about everything else, but my biggest concern is whether one crankshaft could take the combined torque of both engines!

Dont ask me why, but I want to couple two 218's or 230's together inline, but I am wondering a few things. 1) how would one recommend coupling the two engines? I would go with a bolted direct coupling, but nobody ever said a second opinion never worked! 2) how would one go about starting such a beast? one starter or two? and for that matter... 3) would the front engine even get a flywheel? 4) since both engines would be coupled one in front of the other, the second engine would take the combined torque of both engines, would a factory flathead crank even be able to take those kind of stresses? or would the thing just break and die... Dont ask why I want this, it seemed like a good idea at the time! Thanks, Josh

does anybody have the blueprints for either the power wagon or W series floorpans? the old WF needs a new floor, but I cant bring the cab back home to redo it! any help is appreciated!

that things almost too short for semi use! cant think of much else needing that heavy a capacity that takes up that little space. thing sure looks funny though!

I did the cherokee swap with a stock B4B, what model is yours? exactly what does a cleveland u-joint mean, is it a funky mount style or a brand? When I did mine, I used stock cherokee joints, bolted right in place of the stocks,