knuckleharley

BTW-2,I see that you live in Mo,and I know a guy from emails and ebay that lives in Mo,and he has or had several P-15 parts cars. Maybe you could get a whole rear from him with "friendlier" highway gears than that pu rear? If interested,send me a PM with your email address and name,and I will forward them to the guy I know.

[quote name=knuckleharley;..... BTW' date='I can hook you up with the 47 backing plates and other stuff if you need them. Or a whole rear if you live close enough to make coming after it practical.[/quote] BTW,I just changed my mind after looking at your profile page. You have a yellow P-15 convertible,and I now hate you.

Thanks,I just called him and ordered new wheel cylinders maybe 30 minutes ago. He had the 42 wheel cylinders in stock for $42 each,so I went ahead and bought them to save me the trouble of having to swap all that stuff out after stripping another car. I have flexibility and balance problems,and the less time I have to spend bent over and moving around,the better. I've ordered stuff from him before for my 48 Plymouth coupe,and never had any problems with his parts or his service. He does seem to have a attitude problem,though. Then again,if I had to answer the phone and talk with customers all day like he does,I'd probably have a attitude problem,too. BTW,I can hook you up with the 47 backing plates and other stuff if you need them. Or a whole rear if you live close enough to make coming after it practical.

New wheel cylinders for my new 42 Dodge seem to be made from either unobtanium or unaffordable,but I have a couple of P-15 Parts cars laying around. P-15 wheel cylinders seem to be plentiful and affordable. Will the P-15 backing plates work on my D-22?

You won't be able to keep your stock wheels because of clearance problems with the calipers. You can use modern 15 inch radials with modern Mopar wheels as long as you make sure you specify a 4.5 inch bolt pattern when you order the rotors.

I guess your standards are higher than mine. I was just looking for one I could afford to iron out some wrinkles in some 34 Ford pu front fenders,and maybe a few other things of my own. I don't have a commercial shop,just my own crap to work on. It seems fine for my purposes. To be honest,the only flaw I saw with it is that the base is made from 1/4 inch steel instead of the heavy cast base on the 2 grand ones. I don't see this as being a major problem for the light duty use I have planned for it.

I know a guy in northern Michigan who has a 46 Town Sedan he has been thinking about selling.

The have a pretty decent English Wheel for less than 300 bucks. It only comes with one die,though. You have to buy the other six for $79.95. Still,a hell of a deal. If you use it to save just one 30's fender,it's paid for itself.

>>Yep I was thinking of doing 'something' like that IF it was too heavy for to carry.. Maybe I can use an old metal saucer snow sled(like Clark Griswald used),,, and attach a chain to 'something' then slide it over the grass,,,<< Harbor Frieght,Northern Tools,and others sell a wagon with pneumatic tires that holds 1200 lbs,has sides that fold down,and a "tiller" arm that you can pull and steer it with. Useful for all sorts of things. I bought mine at the local True Value hardware store for $99.99,and use it to haul motors and transmissions around with. I prefer to strip cars out in the yard,and the pneumatic tires make it easy to roll around the yard. It's also easier to roll around inside my shop than a cherry picker is.

>>T.Tom Meshingear;17943]As an experiment I tried this with a single edged razor blade.<< You can also use old hacksaw blades for curved areas. Just use the side that doesn't have the teeth,or grind the teeth away with a grinder.

Yeah,it does. What did you use for reducer? What kind of rollers did you use?

Dave,how in the world did you get a paint roller to roll paint around the small curvy areas like the headlights?

For those of you who are interested in reproductoin rubber,you might want to check this guy out. Door Sill Mats 1942 1946 1947 1948 Plymouth 42 46 47 48 Item number: 230148434256 Buy itnow price: US $289.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=230148434256

Thanks for posting that link. I also have it for sale here. If I don't sell it here or on the HAMB within a week,it goes on ebay for a week. If it doesn't sell there,it goes to the crusher. I have got to clean my yard up so that I can cut grass from my riding mower. Too old to spend hours cutting grass around 20+ cars and trucks with a weed whacker. Since this one has a clear title,I really hate to see that happen.

Just run a wire from the brake light switch directly to the center brake light on the trunk. That isolates it from the turn signals and tail lights.

Guys,here is just once source for a alternator conversion kit for old 6 volt positive ground Ford tractors. I see no reason why these wouldn't work as well on a flat 6 Mopar,and you save 100 bucks. This is just one source. Do a google search for tractor alternators and you will find dozens. You might even find it on sale someplace. The only drawback for some of you is that these are all 12 volt alternators. http://secure.ssbtractor.com/cgi-bin/quikstore.cgi

Jim Shepard wrote: >>The bracket is the one thing that could be better with this setup. However, it's one of the things, as Dodge owners, we have to put up with. There just isn't the demand for someone to fabricate a MOPAR/flathead-specific bracket. Here's what the 'generic' bracket looks like installed.<< There is a way around that. I know there is somebody manufacturing alternators in original generator housings for the Ford restorer guys. Since they are also positive ground 6 volt generators,doing the same for a Dodge should be a snap for them. This way your engine bay looks original,you don't have to fabricate anything,and you still get a alternator. No,I don't know the name of the company that does this or the price they charge. I prefer generators,so I just read about it and moved on.

You can also use the rubber weatherstripping sold at building supply places for doors and windows. It has a adhesive backing and you just peel of the cover and stick it on. Comes in different widths and is pretty cheap.

Did the WD-40 leak down past the rings? My suggestion is to go to the NAPA store and buy one of the "hold open" devises used to keep valves from dropping down into the cylinders when removing valve springs. Screw that into a cylinder full of WD-40,ATF,Brake fluid,or whatever,and put 125 psi of air pressure behind it. Take the oil filler cap off,and sit next to it until you hear "blub,blub,blub" coming out of the base pan,then fill that cylinder with a thin lubricant like Marvel Mystery Oil,ATF,or WD-40,and pressurize the next cylinder. Repeat until you have them all done. In a worse case scenario you might have to remove the head and the side cover to get the valves to close so you can pressurize it properly,but it's worth the work if by doing this you can avoid having to break pistons or scour cylinder walls with broken rings by unsticking one "dry". If you have a valve that just won't close,lube it up good with lithium grease and then tap it closed with a plastic hammer after making sure it's not on the high spot of the cam lobe. This is easier to do on a OHV engine because all you have to do with one of those is take the valve covers off and unbolt the rocker arms to get the valves to close. The advantage to doing all this work is that once you have it unstuck this way you can get it running to see if it knocks or smokes,and even more important,you can run it enough for it to get hot so you can tell if the block ins cracked.

jaguarsurfer wrote: >>oh these only one brake light? << Yup,the one in the center of the trunk lid. >> so that means my wires are ok back there then....what page from the owners manual should i copy and keep for all the local law inforsment thats going to pull me over for both tail lights being out?<< Don't confuse brake lights with tail lights and turn signal lights. The center trunk lid light is ONLY a brake light. The two tail lights on the fenders are nothing but tail lights. They are only turn signal lights if the car had turn signals installed and dual element cups and bulbs put in the housing. >>my turning lights dont work. is there a relay or something that i can check?<< Sounds like you have a fuse blown or a bad flasher. Fix that and your taillights will start working again. Look at the wires coming out of your turn signal unit,and follow them under the dash. You will see a flasher there,and most likely a in-line fuse. If you don't see a in-line fuse,put one in-line. You might want to do like a lot of people do,and just put dual element cups and bulbs into the tail light housings on both sides,and wire them up to your brake light. That way you have a brake light on each side,as well as a 3rd brake light in the center of your trunk.

Thanks,Reg. I guess I have the right bellhousing since the original engine and tranny are still in the car,and the bellhousing on the truck engine and tranny is obviously still on it. The engine in the 42 hasn't been spun since 1974,so I suspect it may be slightly stuck. The 48 engine holds 50 psi oil pressure at idle,though. This is all very good news to me. I hope to be driving this coupe this summer. It will have spots of primer and whatever color paint I have in spray cans where the surface rust used to be,and it will probably have a Mexican blanket for upholstery if I can find one,but this won't keep me from driving it. I KNEW there was a reason I bought the 57 Plymouth hubcaps a couple of years ago,I just didn't know what it was at the time. I actually sold the truck to a couple of rednecks I know a couple of years ago,and it dissapeared without them paying me. They said it was stolen,but I found out they sold it and took them to court to get it back. They had already sold the bed,the guages and speedo out of the dash,and sold or threw away the new wheelcylinders and rubber that I gave them with the truck,but I did get the cab,engine,and trans back,so I guess it all works out anyhow. I guess I'll just blow out the rollinng chassis with the cab,front sheetmeal, and title once I pull the engine. It's a 5-window cab,so it should be worth $250 to somebody with the title.

Well,I'd like to do that,but it's still bolted to the factory rebuilt 230 flat 6 that I plan on putting into the 42 business coupe I just bought,and I hate to break a set.

I have a 48 Dodge 1/2 ton pu 3-speed floor shirt transmission that I want to put into my 42 coupe. Is there any reason I can't do this?

BTW,I know a guy in Michigan who has a 41 Town Sedan for sale that is supposed to be all there,clean,and maybe even run. I have never seen it,he just told me about it and asked if I had ever seen one with non-suicide rear doors. This one can be bought cheap. Anybody interested,send me a PM and I will give you his email address

If you want a good engine cradle you can roll around and even leave a transmission attached to it,you can't beat the ones from this guy "stumpy" <fordrules@wholenet.net> Here is a photo of the one I bought off him that has a 312 Ford Y-Block sitting in it,complete with a heavy Ford-o-Matic transmission. If it can balance all this and roll easily without tipping,it's a good design. BTW,the red "Ford Y-Block" wording on it is something I did so he could use it for advertising and show people one of his cradles with a engine in it. He makes good stuff.