knuckleharley

If rust is the problem,vinegar is the answer. Take your block off the engine stand and stand it on it's end,and then fill it full of vinegar and let it sit overnight. Mabye even two days. You can buy vinegar for just a couple of bucks a gallon at the grocery store,and it is 5% acid content. This is what eats the rust. Best of all it is safe and you can just pour it down the drain or use it to kil weeds when you are done.

Thanks,Tim. The woman at the local glass place told me that laminated glass was 1/4 inch thick,and tempered glass was 5/16th thick,so the tempered glass wouldn't fit my tracks or rubber. I guess this is what happens in a family owned business when the wife/mother is allowed to run the front office. She doesn't know what the hell she is talking about,and everybody there is afraid to correct her. At any rate,I have laminated glass in my windshield,vent windows,and doors now. Arthur

Guys,I just had new tinted glass cut for my 48 coupe,and the people at the glass company said they could only cut laminated glass for the car because tempered glass would be too thick. Now some of you are saying you use tempered glass in your doors and side windows. My local glass company has been in business since the 20's,and they tell me they can't get 1/4 inch thick tempered glass. Do you guys have sources they don't have,or did I hear them wrong?

I had both bumpers and all 4 bumper guards on my P-15 done at Hanlon's Plating in Richmond,Virginia a little over a year ago,and it cost me $670 with me delivering them and picking them up. They did a excellent job,and there were a couple of minor bends in the edges,most likely from slipping bumper jacks. There was a little rust on them and on the bumper guards,but the pitting was very minor. Hanlon's does really good work and they are honest,but they don't like chroming pot metal,and they won't guarantee it to be free of pits when it comes out of the tanks. Is there anybody around that does good chrome on pitted pot metal parts that fixes the pits and has reasonable prices?

Guys,I probably didn't watch a total of 10 hours of television between 1964 and 1985. Didn't watch much from 85-90,either. Too busy partying and chasing women from 64-85,and too busy working after that.

I never even heard of Speed Racer until this thread. I am guessing it was a cartoon show on tv? When was it on?

You kidding? Big eyes,big boobs,and short skirts! What's not to like?

I think I like it enough that I saved that photo to my hard drive.

Pretty cool! I had a old Barhdahl Oil one,but somehow something fell against it and broke the glass. I do have a repo Betty Boop thermometer in my shop,though.

OOPS! Sorry for not addressing your request for a wiper knob. I don't have one. I used that hole in the dash on my car to mount the tach. I have two parts cars and a total of 3 dashes. Not a single one of these dashes had a wiper switch still on it when I got them.

That is the part I need,but I only need the OUTSIDE chrome part. The inner part where the mirror attaches is still good on my car.

We could if I had one,but I don't. I have my tach mounted in that hole,and run my wipers from a column stalk. How much do you want for your divider bar? Is it pitted,or can I send it off to be chromed? Guys,I had to modify this post so I could give you all a word of warning. I had just bought a Newport Engineering 2 speed electric wiper motor for my coupe,and since I already have a GM column in the car,I wrote that I was using the wiper control on the stalk because that is what I was planning on doing. I have since found out that you can NOT use a GM wiper switch with a Newport Engineering electric wiper motor. It will fry the motor. These wiper motors come with a switch made to match the motors as a part of the package,and it is mounted in the dash like a headlight switch,on a bracket under the dash,or you can even buy a "shaft extender" for it and use it in the place of the original wiper switch if you want to keep your dash stock looking. I repeat,do NOT use a GM wiper switch with a aftermarket wiper motor unless you have called the manufacturer and they tell you it is safe to do so. I called Newport on the phone Friday,and they are the ones that told me to not do it because it would burn up the wiper motor.

I have yet to see anything that stand up to "new gas". I had the red plastic coating put into a tractor gas tank a couple of years ago,and the gas started dissolving it within a year. I drained the old gas out to start it,and it came out red. Since this gas tank was so thin it had a bunch of pinholes in it ad it sits right over the engine,it couldn't be trusted after that. Had a Harley gas tank coated with some kind of white tank sealer crap,and it kept clogging the gas line. I won't screw around with them anymore because there is too much danger of fire. I will either buy a new gas tank ($229 from Tanks,Inc) or have the outside coated with fiberglass and then eat out the rust with vinegar before using it.

I know I have at least one extra glovebox door,but I won't have a good trim piece for it. I may have the instrument cluster cover too,but will have to look around for it tomorrow and see. Send me a PM or email tomorrow and remind me. Would you happen to have a extra windshield divider bar and a pair of wiper bezels?

This is pretty funny. I called them just yesterday looking for a windshield divider for my 48 Plymouth. What's really funny is it sounded like the guy on the phone was trying to be helpful,because he even took the time to tell me,"We don't carry body parts. We sell rubber and some mechanical parts." I then asked him,"You do sell NOS parts and buy NOS parts,right? Isn't a windshield divider bar a bar a NOS part?" I know they have sold body parts in the past when they have them,but it seemed like the guy on the phone didn't know this. I'm still looking for the divider bar,but I did find the vent window repair kits I was looking for. I should report that guy to the police for sexual assault because he tore me a new one.

If you ain't heard Link play Good Time Joe or Backwood Preacher Man,you ain't heard rock and roll guitar. Period. Rocket 88 ain't too bad,either. Link Wray died recently,and was getting up on the stage and playing every night right up to the time he died.

Guys,doesn't NAPA sell this stuff now? Have any of you used it?

I'm with ya on that one. There are places where you can cut corners,but brakes ain't one of them. It really doesn't cost that much to replace all the hard lines and the brake hoses,and it is foolish to not do so with a car 50 or more years old. Same thing with gas lines. Replace the hard lines with new hard lines,and make DAMN sure you replace all the rubber gas lines and plastic fuel filters with new ones made to handle the crap called gas today. One thing you don't want to do is find out if you can stop your car from 60 MPH in time to get out of it before it burns up with you in it.

Bob,I don't know the answer to your question,but I sure could use a nice Special Deluxe button to use on my 48 if you or anyone else has one to sell. I also need unpitted dash chrome.

If it were me,I'd use a inline 6 cylinder Cummings Turbo Diesel from a late model Dodge truck.

True,but it is dangerous to handle and you can't just pour it out on the ground. This is not true of vinegar,and it eats rust just as good.

The plain steel tank that they sell is supposed to be galvanized on the inside like the original tanks where,so they won't need to be coated on the inside for decades. Eventually the gasoline "sloshing" around in the tank as you drive the car around will wash off the galvanizing. Then it starts rusting. This is what happened with your original tanks. You would probably never notice it on a car that is driven regularly because the same action that washed off the galvanized finish will wash off any new rust that develops while it is still microscopic. The trouble starts when the car sits for a few years and the condensation in the gas tank gets the rust going. This is why so many gas tanks are rusted out at the top more than they are at the bottom.

Rockwood wrote: >>Hi Knuckleharley, can you explain the process, do you fill the tank right up, or do you just fill the bottom. << You can,but I am too cheap to buy that much vinegar. If it is a 18 gallon tank,I buy 10 gallons,pour it in,and let it sit 24 hours. Then I turn the tank over and let it sit for another 24 hours before pouring it out. Pour it out into a container you can save it in so that if all the rust isn't gone you can repeat the process after screening it through a filter like a old t-shirt to remove the old crud and rust flakes. >>I have a lot of pin holes on the top of the tank, and one tiny pinhole on the bottom.<< IMHO,you should just take your sending unit out and throw your tank away. If it's that thin it's not worth working on. It's especially not worth flushing with vinegar because it eats rust,and you are doing to discover 10 times as many pinholes once it is done eating away the rust,and several really big holes. In fact I throw the tanks away if I discover pinholes AFTER cleaning them out. I wouldn't even waste my time messing with one that had them before I got started. >>. But spending $215.00 plus tax and shipping, may save a lot of headaches:eek: , will decide in near future.......Thanx Fred<< Spend the money. You will be glad that you did. What you have now is junk and there is no fixing it. Sooner or later the bottom is going to fall out of that tank and you are going to discover if you can stop your car and get out of it before you burn up with it. My best advise to you is to buy a poly tank if one is available for your car. That way you will never have to worry about this in the future.

Nothing beats vinegar for cleaning out a old gas tank. Eats rust like nobody's business. Best of all,you can pour it right over weeds to kill them when you dump the tank. Buy it by the gallon at any grocery store cheap. Just make sure you clean the tank out good afterwards with hot soapy water,and be ready to coat it the instant it dries because it will start rusting again right away.

I plan on being there if I'm not back in the hospital. Look for a short fat geezer with a t-shirt with the P-15/D/24 Logo. Arthur