JBNeal

additional information - Chrysler Master Tech - Story of Valves this vid echoes lots of information passed on by other members...very informative

have ya considered doing a conversion to AM/FM radio with MP3 jack or Bluetooth capability? There's a whole mess of outfits that can convert your tube type AM radio to a solid state device with modern features so that ya have the look of your original radio but with increased functionality

How'bout Big Frank, since it's a dually

I was stewing on the popping exhaust and kinda wondered if some of the valve springs were worn too...there's detail in the shop manual about using a special tool to check spring "strength" to determine if any require replacement. I suppose a weak spring will not keep the valve closed and could be the cause of a vacuum leak during operation, but I will have to yield to the experts on this one as book lurnin' cannot exceed field experience when addressing operation issues with the ignition system, valvetrain and carburetion

I'm kinda wondering if worn valve guides may be the cause of the not-so-smooth exhaust...if the valves are rattling around a little, they may get hung up before that instant that they need to closed...also, I recall that the engine idle speed should be closer to 450-500 rpm...I do not recall where I read it, but there is a way to replace worn valve guides with the engine in the truck. It involves a valve guide installation tool, a hammer, a cold chisel, and a lot of patience...I was able to replace the guides on the '49 while the engine block was in the truck, and if I over drove the guides, then I could carefully use a long pry bar to adjust the guide height

1) Locate the serial number, it'll tell the truth more than any one person could tell ya...you can request a build card at some point to really know how the truck was supposed to leave the factory. A thorough inspection of the frame is a must if you suspect there may be rust issues. I have seen rust thru on the frame of some parts trucks near the forward rear spring hangers that could be a bear to repair properly. Who knows what kind of coating is on that frame...if ya remove paint in suspected rusty areas on the frame, you could go back and top coat it with more black paint...only the sharp eyed nit pickers may question why the frame paint has some inconsistencies in it. 2) If you rewire for a 6V system, then you could update to a 12V system later if you feel the need. New wiring, including battery cables, usually solves most problems with the 6V systems as impedance is greatly minimized from the corroded and tattered original wiring. I would think there are electric wiper options available for the '47 as the cab is pretty much the same as in vintage Power Wagons. 3) The engine argument of 218 vs 230 is something I too have wrassled with of late. My '48 has a '55 Plymouth 230 that has been in there for half a century...I have found a '50 Plymouth 218 that is more accurate compared to the original engine that the truck left the factory with, but it's not really original either. And as far as power difference between the 218 and the 230, a 218 can be massaged to pump out 230 power levels, which are still quite low by today's standards. From a cost perspective, if you have an engine ready to install, I say use it, cuz that's probably how that truck got the replacement engine in the first place. 4) If this truck left the factory as a chassis cab, you could put anything back there that you want...except for a swing set, that would just look odd. 5) From what I remember when we hauled grain in the D700 when I was a kid, Dad would pull the knob to climb hills and hit the knob to get speed on flat grades...and it wasn't much for speed but it would get down the road. These 2 speed rear axles were used to get the most torque from the engine when loaded so the truck would not stall or lug, not so much to keep up with the lead foots on the interstate. 6) Fuel delivery can vary by usage. If you upgrade to a 2bbl carb setup, then ya need to split the exhaust, so there's more work to be done on the engine there. The mechanical setup works if maintained, but some have better results with the electric pump for delivery, others have the mechanical pump on the engine with an electric pump near the fuel tank as a booster/backup. Inspect the tank for any rust, sludge, possible leaks. A new replacement appears to be available if ya have trouble with what ya have now

ya might want to consider the skf speedi sleeve for that output shaft so the new oil seal will work better...small grooves can wear in almost every shaft surface on these old beasts, rendering a new oil seal a little weepy

additional information - Steering Gearbox Rebuild Information

alternative differential identification procedure

an interesting perspective...

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-4 near Indianapolis or thereabouts

uhhhhh...

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Pilot-House taking a break at the local watering hole

BLASPHEMERS ! ! !

Nice ladders

World's Fair Turbine

Derailed train near San Francisco, 1906

anyone interested in a slightly used Plymouth?

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-1or2 COE Pilot-House at the dealership

that's gonna leave a mark...

I had mine rebuilt by Burton L Norton Company in Michigan back in '99...it was working when the engine problem parked the '48 a few years ago...had them rebuild the unit for the 1-ton back in '04 and it still works well...those fellas are knowledgeable, but ya spend some $$$ and they do not repaint the data tag

NOSpart: 1386139 Rearview Mirror here's a shiny object with an instruction sticker on the glass

NOSpart: 564052 Grease Cap Here's a pair of tagged 1-ton hub grease caps (no boxes or envelopes)

The B-1 horn button assembly is different than the improved B-3 horn button assembly as the B-1 uses a lock ring seated in a groove to hold the button to the 3-eared plate; the B-3 button has threaded inserts for the horn ring to be attached with screws to hold the button to the 3-eared plate. The B-1 horn button design was not as robust as the B-3 button as the bakelite would break at the groove and the sprung button would eject into the driver's face. If ya look close, you can see a chunk of the horn button still floating around in the steering wheel of the '48...

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Pilot-House in Iowa